Day: January 11, 2022

  • Evapotranspiration

    Evapotranspiration

    ‪If you are one of the people who say it’s summer so I can turn off my sprinklers, this column’s for you. In spite of the fact that we are still in the rainy season, signs of water stress can appear quickly on lawns this time of year. This situation is occurring on Marco this week and last week as well. While this has been a fairly wet summer we have also had dry periods between rain storms. Next week is calling for almost no rain at all. Water is needed in large quantities by a lawn. And it is required more frequently in the hot spring and summer than during the winter. A good example of this process is how quickly the rain waters recede from our area roads after summer rain storms (as long as it isn’t high tide). If you turn your sprinklers off after one of these rain storms be sure to turn them back on if there are no more soaking rains within four or five days. This is especially important if you have new sod or shrubs in areas. These plants have very shallow roots and our soil is sandy.‬

    Transpiration

    Water comprises 80 to 90 percent of the fresh weight of grass and it also plays a fundamental role in the plant metabolism. Only one percent of water absorbed by plants is utilized for metabolic activity. The majority of water absorbed is used for transpiration. This is a plant process in which water is absorbed by the roots, passed through the vascular system, and exited from the plant via the stomata into the atmosphere. Transpiration helps maintain plant temperatures by cooling through the latent heat of vaporization. Similar to our own perspiration. The water absorbed by the plants in the transpiration process also brings nutrients from the soil into the plant. This is one of the reasons the plants look so much healthier after a good rain.‬

    Evapotranspiration

    The amount of water transferred into the atmosphere by evapotranspiration from turf surfaces is governed by a number of environmental factors. Sunlight, relative humidity, temperature, wind and available soil moisture are all controlling elements. Minimal ET rates occur when there are dark, cloudy days with high relative humidity, low temperatures and no wind. Maximum ET rates occur on bright sunny days with low humidity, high temperatures and high winds.‬

    June Through September

    According to a table computed by the United States Department of Agricultural Soil Conservation Service June through September have the highest evapotranspiration rates. These are months which also have the highest irrigation requirements if we don’t have adequate rains. Don’t be misled by light summer rain showers. Often these rains only wet the soil surface and evaporate rapidly. A general rule used in Florida is to apply 3/4 to 1 inch of water one to two times a week in Summer.

    “Water on Wilt” Method

    It is true that too much water can cause damage just like too little water. Most people do not pay close enough attention to their lawns to allow for the “Water on Wilt” method. The result is a lawn which goes into water stress when too little water is applied during periods when we don’t have adequate rainfall. This results in populations of chinch bugs in the dry areas and the need to apply more insecticides to prevent damage. Disease can also become a problem in these stressed areas and once again chemicals will be needed to correct the problem. Good horticultural practices always help diminish the need for more chemicals in our environment.‬

    Rain Sensors

    The best remedy is to have a rain-stat or sensor installed. It will pay for itself the first summer you install it. Installed on the edge of the house, above the drip line, it is a device that is wired to the sprinkler timer and will automatically turn the system off when there has been adequate rainfall. As the wick dries (as the soil would dry) it allows the system to run again. These devices are required by law on all houses. Every home should have one. Call your sprinkler repair company and have a rain sensor installed today and then let it do its job. ‬

    “While the initial investment may be more than the conventional system it will surely pay for itself in the long run.‬”

    Smart Irrigation Systems

    There are also many new smart irrigation systems on the market. These systems sense the need for water in various ways and only allow the system to run if the need is there. While the initial investment may be more than the conventional system it will surely pay for itself in the long run.‬

    What ever method you choose just be sure that you do not allow the lawn to wilt to the point of damage or over water. As mentioned above, both will cause problems that will in turn require the need for more chemical use and that is always a bad thing for the environment‬.

  • Fertilizers Facts

    Fertilizers Facts

    Fall is here and most of you have started thinking about or already have fertilized your lawn, shrubs and trees. I thought a few facts on fertilizers and nutritional needs of plants might help you with your fertilizer choices.

    Sixteen Elements

    There are sixteen known elements required for plant growth and development. Three of these, carbon(C), hydrogen(H), and oxygen(O) are all obtained directly from air and water. The other thirteen elements are supplied by the soil. These are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), sulfur (S), chlorine (Cl), copper (Cu), zinc (Zn), manganese (Mn), iron (Fe), boron (B), and molybdenum (Mo).

    A Delicate Balance

    These thirteen are elements plants obtain from the soil must be in a slightly soluble form so they can be taken up by the plant’s roots. Each of these elements has a specific function in plant growth and development. If one or more of these nutrients are present in excessive amounts, toxicity or a nutrient imbalance can occur. Or if one or more of these essential elements are in short supply a deficiency can result. Either way plant growth and/or quality may be affected.

    Macro-nutrients

    The nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are the main components, or macro-nutrients, of a suitable fertilizer. The State of Florida is reducing the phosphorus in this equation however as this macro-nutrient is causing pollution problems in local waterways. Sometimes dolomite, a liming material providing both calcium and magnesium, may be included in growing media. Sulfur, the remaining macro-nutrient, may not be a component of the fertilizer and should not be overlooked. Look for fertilizer containing sulfur coated urea nitrogen. This is especially important if you have the dreaded Take-all Patch disease in your lawn.

    Nitrogen

    Nitrogen is available in two basic forms – inorganic and organic. Plants have a preference for the inorganic, or nitrate form of nitrogen. There are two primary organic forms of nitrogen. One is a man made organic called urea. The other form is a naturally occurring organic material such as sewage sludge and manure. These organic forms of nitrogen are converted to the plant preferred inorganic nitrate form by bacterial action in the soil.

    Soluble Nitrates

    The soluble nitrate form of nitrogen is quickly available to the plant causing the rapid growth rate which may cause thin cell walls to develop. Nitrate nitrogen doesn’t last long in the environment. It can leach readily from the soil and may even be lost as a gas. Nutrients should be supplied at the same rate the plant can use them. This means soluble nitrates must be applied frequently in very small amounts.

    “If you have plants which don’t do well around your pool equipment or overflow it may be chlorine toxicity.”

    Micro-nutrients

    The micro-nutrients to be used sparingly are boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. Chlorine ordinarily is not valued as a plant food in fertilizer. It can be injurious if high percentages are present, but small amounts may be beneficial under some conditions. If you have plants which don’t do well around your pool equipment or overflow it may be chlorine toxicity.

    Micro-nutrients

    Micro-nutrients are required by plants in low quantities so you should apply them cautiously. If a deficiency is suspected, it would be unwise to randomly apply all of the micro-nutrients. The result might be correction of one deficiency while inducing a toxicity of another micro-nutrient. This could also lead to an unhealthy plant appearance. Foliar analysis is the most accurate way to determine if a micro-nutrient deficiency is in need of correction.
    The Collier County Extension Office can help you with this test. Individual micro-nutrients are available with suggested rates provided for application. However, it is essential that all micro-nutrients be provided in your fertilizer program at least once a year. Fertilizer formulations are available for shrubs, citrus, palms, etc., containing a good balance of these necessary micro-nutrients. Nutritional sprays are liquid formulations that contain the micro-nutrients. These sprays allow the elements to enter the plant through the leaf surfaces.
    The micro-nutrients can be tied up in our alkaline soil, due to improper pH, when applied as a granular fertilizer and may not be available to the plant. Therefore, when a micro-nutrient deficiency is apparent, it is more effective to apply a nutritional spray.

    Following are some general symptoms of nutrient deficiencies:

    Nitrogen – yellowing of entire plant with lower leaves worse and stunted.

    Phosphorus – main veins of old leaves become purple or reddish.  On fruit trees blossoms drop, fruit is small and matures slowly and few flower buds are formed for next year’s crop.

    Potassium – faint yellowing, then browning of margins on old leaves.  Then veins become yellow.

    Manganese – mottled chlorosis between midrib and primary veins.  Entire leaf may turn yellow but midrib and large veins stay green longest.  Frizzle top, yellowing, dwarfing and distortion.

    Iron – pronounced yellowing on younger leaves with veins appearing as fine green lines, yellow to white if acute.  Dwarf leaves, leaf fall, dead wood, dead tips and reduced growth.

    Magnesium – yellowing begins on margin and near center of old leaf, progresses inward and downward; tip, upper margin and lower central veins may remain green; necrosis and leaf drop.

    Molybdenum – often mistaken for herbicide damage.  Dwarfed leaves with irregular, wrinkled margins and prominent midribs and main veins on your leaves and shoots.

    Boron – plants grow slowly.  Terminal buds die and plant tends to be bushy.  Later, lateral buds die, leaves thicken and fruits, tubers and roots become cracked and discolored.

    Copper – usually confined to peat or muck soils.  Slow growth or complete cessation of growth.  Tips affected first and eventually die back.

    Zinc – leaves become long and narrow, turn yellow and become mottled with dead areas.  Symptoms similar to iron deficiency.

    I hope these facts make this necessary chore in your yard a little easier to understand.

  • Grass types for Marco Island

    Grass types for Marco Island

    Following are four types of grass used in the Marco Island area and some tips on maintenance.

    Bermuda Grass

    Bermuda is the grass used on golf courses. It likes to be cut at a very short ½” to 3/4″ making it ideal for golf. It is not desirable for home use due to the high level of maintenance needed. It needs mowing times 2 to 3 times a week during the growing season and must be fertilized 5 to 6 times a year. It is also not tolerant of shade making it susceptible to disease.

    Bahia Grass

    Bahia is used on some lawns but is now seen less and less. It looks more like northern grass but it has a short life span of 3 to 5 years. It does tolerate foot traffic better than St. Augustine and it is drought tolerant and will regenerate from rhizomes when water is reintroduced. Bahia is actually a pasture grass not meant to be watered, fertilized or mowed. A high cut is necessary to keep bahia healthy and this allows for seed head development. It is not tolerant of shade or salt. And thinning turf allows for weed invasion.

    St. Augustine

    St. Augustine “Floratam” is the most desirable lawn grass. It is very salt tolerant and due to horizontal stolon growth areas damaged by water or insect problems will fill back in. A high cutting height develops a deeper root system for drought tolerance. Long blades shade the stolons and soil for less water evaporation. Longer blades also emit an enzyme which is toxic to chinch bugs. And finally the thicker grass inhibits weed growth. It should be noted that a low cutting height will stress the lawn causing a shallow root system and allowing sunlight to dry the stolons and soil requiring more water and encouraging chinch bugs to the dry, stressed areas. Weeds can easily invade the sparse turf.

    Chinch bugs and grubs are the two most damaging insects for St. Augustine. Chinch bugs cause yellowing along sidewalks and driveways or surrounding old dry spots. The spots will grow and soon double in size. Spread the grass blades at the edge of yellowing or damaged areas and look for black bugs with white wings running around the soil or at the base of the grass blades.

    Grubs cause the lawn to turn brown as if it has no water. Pull on sod and if it pulls up with no resistance from roots grubs have eaten them. Treat quickly and roots will regrow and regenerate the lawn.

     

    Empire Zoysia

    Empire Zoysia is the new grass on the block and is fast becoming popular. It thrives in our tropical climate yet shows some cold hardiness. It claims to be drought tolerant with infrequent, deep watering but will go off color with drought and cold so can be unsightly during the height of our season. It also must have a lot of fertilizer to keep a good color. It has a deep thick root structure and because it is maintained at 1″ to 2″ looks more like northern grasses. Also performs well in sandy soil and weed tolerant due to thick growth. Problems include sod webworm, billbugs and grubs causing damage along with dollar spot disease. It is moderately shade tolerant but will thin with too much. This is not the environmentally friendly grass it is touted to be due to the water and fertilizer needs.

    Watering

    Watering two times a week reducing it to once a week or even once every other week in cooler winter weather should keep most lawns in good shape. Stream and rotor heads should run a minimum of 30 minutes in shady areas to 60 minutes in sunny sloped areas. Pop up or mist heads should run a minimum of 15 minutes to 20 minutes per zone depending on sunlight and sloping. Never mix stream & rotor with pop up mist heads in the same zone or in systems still using a turret valve due to different run times. Check for heads blocked by new or grown shrubs or grass. Know that broken risers can affect the pressure in that entire zone. Your lawn should have about 1 inch of water a week. So each run should be ½ to 3/4 of an inch. Use cans to measure water output. Place some where dry and some where lush to check for problems. Individual zone valves and digital timers allow watering for different run times as needed throughout the yard. Turret valves and mechanical timers can not.

    “Swales should always be sodded as grass and other green plants hold top soil in place, trap sediments and absorb nutrients and other pollutants which can pollute water.”

    Ground Cover

    Sometimes something other than grass would better suit your yard or lifestyle.  Children and pets should have an area of lawn on which to play. (Bahai actually being the grass of choice here).   Swales should always be sodded as grass and other green plants hold top soil in place, trap sediments and absorb nutrients and other pollutants which can pollute water. The same applies along seawalls. Try to use ground covers, ornamentals or grasses to filter pollutants from your yard.  Leaching is a process whereby pollutants are flushed out of the soil by water as it percolates through the soil.  With no roots to absorb and use these nutrients and other pollutants they end up in our environment. 

    Gardens with paths throughout the yard can create small worlds of plants, ground covers and mulch.  Include some patios or ponds and it can be a place of great relaxation for you and the local fauna.

    Things to look for when hiring a lawn service. First determine what level of service you are looking for. Do you do your own gardening and just need someone to mow the grass? Or do you not want to think about your yard maintenance? Do you expect perfection or will you tolerate a few weeds? These things should be spelled out clearly at the initial meeting. Is the company licensed and insured? Licenses include lawn maintenance, landscaping if removing or planting shrubs and trees, pesticide spraying license to treat lawns, special fertilizer license to fertilize, restricted use license for using round up for weed control in beds or spray caution chemicals on shrubs and trees.

    Insurance should include general liability for damage done to your property and workmen’s compensation for injured workers so they don’t come after you for compensation.

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