Day: February 25, 2026

  • Serious consequences of soil compaction when trying to grow anything green

    Serious consequences of soil compaction when trying to grow anything green

    Soil compaction can bring with it serious consequences when trying to grow anything green. In fact it can be almost impossible to establish or maintain plants in compacted soil because it interferes with the movement of water, air, nutrients and roots in the pore spaces between soil particles. This makes root penetration and growth harder leading to poor shallow rooting, poor plant growth and a greater need for irrigation and fertilizer. As a result soil compaction can result in increased costs for the homeowner for water, fertilizer and in the end plant replacement. Compaction issues also have a detrimental effect on the environment because of increased erosion and runoff volumes, which in turn increases the delivery of nutrients and other pollutants to nearby water bodies. Since all the fertilizer and water being put on the compacted landscape cannot percolate down through the soil to be used by the root systems to filter out these pollutants they have nowhere to go but into the surrounding ecosystem. Obviously not a “Best Management Practice”.
    Compaction can be caused or exacerbated by driving on landscapes with heavy equipment during construction or constant traffic such as using unpaved areas as driveways or for parking. Walking will also cause areas to decline, especially in St. Augustine grass which does not tolerate foot traffic well. This problem can be accelerated if the soil is wet. The best way to deal with soil compaction in the landscape is to prevent it from happening. You should limit, or eliminate, the amount of traffic over future or existing planting areas. In fact many municipalities have rules pertaining to the protection of existing plants when building on a site. Marco Island’s Article IV. Landscaping code states (b) During construction, all reasonable steps necessary to prevent the destruction or damaging of existing vegetation shall be taken. No excess soil, additional fill, equipment, liquids, or construction debris shall be placed within the drip line of any vegetation that is required to be preserved, or that will be credited towards the required landscaping. And also (c) Protective barriers shall be installed and maintained beyond the drip line of all retained vegetation unless site improvements prohibit installation of barriers beyond the drip line, and shall remain in place for the duration of the construction process phase. The location of the protective barriers shall be determined by a landscape architect or design professional. These rules are in place because the constant traffic means the plants will not be a viable part of the landscape once the root system has been compacted.
    There are few options for improving compacted soil. Deep tillage or sub-soiling using large machinery to break hardpans and loosen the soil can be impractical in urban areas because of buried utilities and the expense of dealing with those. Obviously it would mean removing all vegetation and beginning again in an existing landscape. The only place this would be considered is at a construction site before installation of utilities or landscaping. Shallow tillage will break up surface soil but can only reach the first six inches. While it would not damage utilities it could not be used around existing trees or turf due to root damage. Plug aeration is not as effective as shallow tillage but can be used in turf. And air tillage can be used around trees but not turf. Once again it is an expensive proposition to correct soil compaction if it can be corrected at all. So the best course of action is to prevent it from happening in the first place.
    Never use your landscape as a parking lot unless you have paved it first. If you find yourself walking on the same path to the boat dock, install some stepping stones. It looks much nicer than the dirt path or area that will eventually result from the constant traffic. In fact I believe Marco Island hands out code violations to property owners who park their cars on unimproved areas of their lawn and will require them to properly pave the area or park elsewhere. There is nothing attractive about dirt yards or swales. Marco Island is better than that.
  • Spring time can be very hard on our lawns and shrubs

    Spring time can be very hard on our lawns and shrubs

    March is here. It is usually the start of our dry season but we are heading into the season in a serious drought. Spring time can be very hard on our lawns and shrubs as the temperatures will begin to rise and we will become increasingly dry. It is important to keep a close eye on your irrigation system. It is also a good time to prepare your yard for summer growth.
    The spring fertilizing is a very important one to bring your lawn, shrubs and trees from the dormancy of winter into the growing season. Lawn fertilizer will produce new green shoots to replace the brown blades caused by the cold weather. Plants and trees will really begin to recover from any winter cold damage as we enter the warmer spring months. Fertilizer will help speed this process. Gardenias, ixoras, azaleas and other acid-loving plants should get a special fertilizer containing essential elements for acid-loving plants. If you didn’t fertilize your citrus trees in January or February, before they flowered, wait until the tree has set small fruit to fertilize as nitrogen can cause the blossoms to drop and this will drastically reduce your fruit crop for next year. But be sure to give the citrus fertilizer to help the fruit grow and mature.
    This is also the time to drastically prune any plants that have become too leggy or large by thinning and heading back. Clean out any dead wood caused by wind events, winter cold or disease. Remove any crossing or interfering branches so they don’t rub each other and cause damage. Poinsettias should be trimmed back now for flowering next winter. Do not prune your gardenias yet. They flower on old growth from last summer. If you prune now you will cut off many of your flower buds due to open soon. Prune gardenias when they finish flowering in early summer.
    Insect populations will be on the rise. Aphids love all the tender new growth on shrubs and trees. Citrus are especially enticing to aphids. Spray with insecticidal soap for control or watch for lady bugs and other natural predators. They are voracious aphid feeders. Mites are very active when it is dry. Watch for dappled discoloration on the older leaves of ornamentals. Mites are too small to see on the leaves. They live on the underside of the leaves and can be seen by shaking the leaves over a piece of white paper. Watch for little specks running around and those will be mites. Treat with a miticide. Grubs will be awakening from their winter hibernation deep in the soil. They will rise to the surface to feed on lawn roots. Watch for areas on the lawn that look like water stress. If irrigation is in proper working order, check for grubs. Grab a handful of grass and pull up. If there is no resistance from roots dig in the soil beneath the spot and you’ll probably unearth a white grub. Treat with Dylox ,a granular insecticide. Grubs tend to stay deeper in the soil when it’s dry so if there haven’t been any recent rains irrigate before treatment to bring them to the surface. Apply the insecticide and water it in well to penetrate the soil where the grubs live.
    It is a good time to mulch to help retain soil moisture. March can be very windy and dry. Both conditions cause serious evaporation from our sandy soil.
    Lawns can also suffer much stress from these conditions. Be sure your irrigation system is in good working order with heads cleared and covering properly. Dry areas are more susceptible to insect and disease problems. Don’t mow your lawn every week. Let the blades grow to help shade and protect the crown from the hot sun and drying winds. Mowing adds extra stress to a lawn already stressed by drought conditions. Wait until the grass really needs to be cut before doing so and you will be rewarded with a lush, green lawn all through the dry, spring months. This will also prepare your lawn for the water restrictions that are sure to be implemented as we head into the hot, dry spring months. I will write more about how to prepare your lawn for this.
    Complete your March chores and you can relax again until the summer rains begin in June. Then your efforts will be rewarded with more healthy, lush growth than you probably will care to deal with!
    I would like to add a note about my topic on landscape lighting. Artificial light can disorient birds that may be migrating through our area at night. It can also attract unwanted insects to your house like swarms of termites or ants which tend to swarm after dark. Make note of where your outside lights shine. Are you lighting up your neighbor’s windows along with your own yard? A dark room is recommended for quality sleep which could be affected by your lights. What to do? Use yellow or orange bug light bulbs and/or turn your lights off when you go to bed. The environment will be the better for it.

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