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  • Summer Rainy Season

    Summer Rainy Season

    Author: wickedAdmin

    The summer rainy season is in full swing. The last several weeks of rain has caused a flush of growth in the garden that will continue through September and possibly into October.
    During the summer months we can have 20 inches of rain in the blink of an eye which literally just happened. With this in mind, the realities of lawn maintenance during the summer months in South Florida can be quite harsh. Within two weeks an entire yard can look like it has been neglected for months. Remember Marco Island is in the sub-tropics.
    Given enough rain grass can easily grow three to six inches in a week. The saying, you can sit and watch the grass grow, is really true here during the summer months. In Aseason@, October through April, it can take a month to see that much growth. Now consider you could not cut the grass on time due to rain. It grows another two to three inches. When you do finally cut the grass it is very lush, wet and hard to cut. It takes you twice as long because you may have to cut areas twice. This leaves little time for other things like pruning or weed control. But you have to make time because these tasks will quickly get out of control if you don’t.
    Weeds take on a life of their own in the summer. You look around and have killed or pulled all the weeds and the gardens are virtually weed free. More of those rain storms go through and another crop of weeds has germinated. You decide to spray again when you mow this week but another rain storm washes the herbicide away just after you complete the job. There is a good chance the weeds will not die. Another week goes by and while some of the weeds died from your efforts last week some have survived. These weeds are now a foot high and producing seeds for the next crop of weeds. They are monsters that look like they have been growing in the garden for a year. More than likely more rain has fallen and has begun to germinate that new crop of weeds as well as fueling the growth of the last crop you are still trying to kill. It is almost a losing battle to keep gardens weed free in the summer!
    Ornamental shrubs grow at astronomical rates this time of year. One of the reasons for this is that we plant shrubs and small trees with a mature size of ten to twenty feet tall and try to keep them pruned into tiny, square hedges around our houses. Once again you can have a foot of new growth in a week with enough rain. Bougainvillea can actually grow four feet of growth in a week. That is not an exaggeration! That kind of growth takes a month or two in season and can take a year in the northern states. Pruning is a constant job this time of year or you will find your shrubs kissing the eaves of your house. That is also the reason this is the best time of year to cut back those shrubs which have become leggy and woody. They will grow back so fast you will be pruning them again within a week or two. Remember mid-October is the cut-off date for severe pruning.
    If you maintain your own yard, you know the realities of the above mentioned growth rates. Imagine having fifty or one hundred lawns to maintain each week. That is the reality for people in the lawn maintenance business. The growing season is slow when most residents are in town and so it seems that the job is an easy one and the company is not spending much time or effort in your yard. But should you decide to come to Marco Island in July, August or September you might be quick to think the landscaper is slacking off while you are not here. He is actually working five times harder and doing his best to keep your landscape neat and trim. At times it is a near impossible task and only the strong will survive in this business. If the gardener seems a little testy it could indicate a slight case of heat exhaustion since that is one of the first symptoms.
    So have a little compassion and give them a break and maybe an ice, cold drink when they arrive to battle the jungle in your corner of the island. They will prevail and those weeds will die, the plants will get cut back and your yard will be the perfect place you desire just in time for season to arrive again.
  • Time for summer tropical fruit

    Time for summer tropical fruit

    Author: wickedAdmin

    It is time for summer tropical fruit! Our mangos, pineapples and bananas are ripening all over Marco Island and they are all delicious so enjoy!
    Bananas give a landscape a lush, tropical look with their oversized, palm-like leaves. They are not a true woody tree but are herbaceous plants that grow from two to thirty feet tall. The dwarf varieties like Dwarf Cavendish grow two to 10 feet, Medium varieties like Blue java ten to fifteen feet and the full size commercial varieties twenty to thirty feet. While they can be grown throughout Florida some varieties withstand the colder temperatures better than others. Central to south Florida are better climates for bananas. They prefer a moist, fertile soil and to be planted out of the wind. And they prefer full sun but will tolerate partial shade. Because of our sandy soil bananas need to be fertilized often (4 to 6 times a year) for high fruit production. Fertilize the young plants every two months using one half pound of a 6-2-12 and up to five pounds when flowering and fruiting begins.
    They like regular watering using one to one and a half inches of water a week. Without adequate water they may not produce fruit or it will be small or will produce very little fruit. But don’t overwater because they don’t like wet feet. Bananas have a rhizome root which spreads sideways underground and grows new upright shoots. For great bananas they suggest limiting the plant to three or four stalks of different ages. The oldest and tallest should be the one fruiting. The second one should be one half to one third the size of the first. And then there should be one or two young plants that are six inches to three feet tall. Mulch your bananas by cutting down older leaves and pseudostems to decompose and feed the surrounding soil.
    The best varieties are Dwarf Cavendish, which is popular for its compact size and easy fruiting, Rajapuri and Blue java or ice cream. Harvest your bananas by cutting off the entire bunch when the first hand starts turning yellow. About three months after the plant flowers. The hang the rack in your garage or shed and be prepared to eat a lot of bananas fast!
    Although the climate of Florida is not perfectly suited to large scale commercial production of pineapple, there was at one time a large pineapple farm on Hoar’s Island, now known as Key Marco. This was in the days when the clam factory was also in operation. You can grow very sweet pineapples here and many people have a plant or two tucked into their garden.
    The pineapple originated in Brazil and Paraguay but will grow in all the tropical and warm, subtropical areas of the world. The plant is a small, herbaceous perennial with long sword-like leaves which spiral around the short stem. The fruit develops from the end of the stem and consists of many small, seedless fruits fused together. Size can vary from one to ten pounds or more. Pineapples are oval to cylindrical in shape and yellowish to orange in color when ripe. They can add an interesting year round shape to a border garden or flower bed.
    In the tropics fruit production occurs throughout the year. In Florida greatest production occurs during the summer months. There are many new pineapples on plants in the spring which ripen in July. The fruit should be allowed to ripen on the plant for maximum flavor and sugar content. You can often smell them before you see them as you come upon them in a garden.
    Pineapples grow best where the temperature is warm and relatively uniform throughout the year. They will survive a temperature of 28 F. with much leaf damage and will be killed at lower temperatures. Therefore, in Florida planting should be restricted to southern coastal areas like Marco Island. Prolonged exposure to temperatures in the low 40’s causes internal breakdown or heart-rot of the flesh. Extremely high temperatures cause sunburning and cracking of the fruit.
    While most sandy, well drained soils are satisfactory for growing pineapples, they thrive best in a sandy loam, mildly acid of medium fertility. The plant tolerates drought very well but adequate soil moisture is necessary for good fruit production.
    Propagation is by planting new vegetative growth from the mother plant. There are four types: “slips” from the stalk below the fruit, “suckers” which originate at the axils of leaves, “crowns” which grow from the top of the fruits, and “ratoons” which grow from underground portions of the stem. Slips and suckers are the preferred planting material if they are large and vigorous. My personal favorite is the crown. Simply cut the green, leafy top from your pineapple that you bought at the grocery store, strip a few leaves to expose the stem and stick it in soil in a pot or your garden.
    Pineapples do best when planted during the summer in beds with two to five rows of plants spaced 18 to 30 inches apart. Mulch will help eliminate weeds and conserve moisture.
    Fertilizer containing 7-2-7-3 or 8-3-8-4 (N-P-K-Mg) with 40% of the nitrogen from organic sources can be alternated with foliar sprays of urea nitrogen mixed with ferrous sulfate (iron) about every four months.
    The most troublesome pests of pineapples in Florida are mealybugs and nematodes. For control of mealybugs apply a spray containing Malathion. Do not apply Malathion within 7 days of harvest.
    Nematodes weaken and destroy roots. Affected plants are unable to use fertilizer effectively and lose vigor. Preventive measures are the only way to avoid nematode damage. Use nematode free planting material. Crown and slips which have never been rooted will be free of nematodes or any planting material from nematode free soils. Virgin soil is not necessarily free of the kinds of nematodes which injure pineapple, but is less likely to have injurious nematodes than land in which vegetables or ornamentals have been grown in preceding seasons. Finally, you can fumigate nematode infested soil using a chemical fumigant. Because you need to treat the soil at a fairly deep level for pineapples solar fumigation would probably not be effective.
    Trust me, you don’t know what you’re missing until you’ve tried a pineapple from Marco Island. Plant your own today! And be prepared to visit in July for the harvest.
    Mango trees are full of ripening fruit all around Marco. Mangos are a native of India and Southeast Asia. They were first introduced to Florida in the 1800’s. Mango trees are medium to large with a symmetrical, rounded canopy which can be low and dense or upright and open. The leaves vary from 6 to 16 inches in length and are leathery in texture, wine colored when young becoming dark green when mature.
    The flowers are small, pinkish white and appear from December to April. The large flower clusters contain 500 to more than 4000 flowers. However, the number of fruits which set and mature is very small in relation to the number of flowers produced. Most commercial varieties in Florida produce less than one fruit per cluster of flowers. Average yields of 3 to 5 bushels can be expected from mature trees. You can achieve better yields with good management and favorable weather.
    The fruit of most varieties matures from May to September with a peak in June and July. The time from flowering to fruit maturity is 100 to 150 days. Less time in warmer climates. A dry season preceding and during the blooming period is considered necessary for good fruit production. Anthracnose disease and low temperatures during bloom are the main causes for limited fruit production in Florida. Pollination is mainly by insects.
    The fruits vary in size, shape and color. They can be greenish, yellow or red and can range in weight from a few ounces to more than 5 pounds. Smooth, leathery skin surrounds the fleshy yellow edible portion. This skin can cause severe allergic reaction in some people and should be handled with caution. The crop is considered mature when some fruits on the tree have begun to change color from green to yellow.
    The best temperatures for ripening are 70 to 75 degrees F. Fruits ripened at higher temperatures can shrivel and develop off-flavors. Mature fruits will ripen in three to eight days after harvest. Ripening can be delayed by cold storage for shipping purposes. The lowest safe storage temperature is 55 degrees F.
    Mango trees should be planted to allow 20 to 30 feet of space on all sides. Pruning of young trees is not necessary. After several years of production you might want to cut back the tops and sides of the trees occasionally to make spraying and harvesting easier and to lessen storm damage. The best time to do this is in the summer after all the fruit has been harvested. While severe pruning does not injure the tree it will reduce fruit production the following season.
    Mango trees will grow in many types of soils. They can tolerate some flooding but good drainage is a must for satisfactory fruit production.
    Because of our sandy soil mango trees must be fertilized periodically for good growth and fruit production. Young trees should be fertilized every two months during the first year, beginning with 1/4 pound and gradually increasing to one pound. After that three to four applications a year are sufficient. A quality 6-6-6 or 10-10-10 fertilizer with 4 to 6% magnesium is a good choice for young trees. For bearing trees reduce the phosphoric acid (the middle number) and increase potash (the last number).
    Successful control of fungus disease requires that all susceptible parts of the tree be thoroughly coated with a fungicide before infection occurs. Sprays applied after infection will have no effect on disease development. Sprays must be reapplied as new growth occurs to protect the new tissue and also if weather has reduced spray residues. A successful program depends on the right amount of a recommended fungicide, timely applications before infection is most likely to occur and thorough coverage of susceptible parts. The most important disease of mangos is anthracnose. It attacks flowers, young fruits, leaves and twigs. Black, slightly sunken lesions of irregular shape appear and gradually enlarge and cause blossom blight, leaf spotting, fruit staining and fruit rot. Development is caused by rains or heavy dews. For prevention copper fungicide should be applied weekly from first appearance of flower clusters until all fruits have set and then monthly from fruit set until mid-May for early varieties and mid-June for late varieties.
    Mango scab attacks leaves, flowers, fruits and twigs. In early stages it resembles anthracnose. Lesions of fruit usually become covered with corky brown tissue. It causes distortion of leaves and so is a problem mainly for nurseries. The anthracnose spray program will control scab.
    Powdery mildew attacks leaves, flowers and young fruits. Infected tissues are covered with a whitish powdery growth of the fungus. Lesions develop along the midrib on the under sides of leaves and become dark brown and greasy looking as leaves mature. Severe infections cause failure of fruit set and defoliation of trees. Applications of sulfur will prevent spread of infection to new growth.
    Pests which attack mango trees include mites, scale insects and thrips. These pests only occasionally build up populations large enough to require control measures.
    The mango is considered one of the finest fruits in the world. It can be eaten fresh, frozen, dried, canned, cooked in jams, jellies, preserves, pies, chutney and ice cream. The fruit is a good source of vitamins A and C. One of my favorite recipes is mango upside-down-cake. Yum!
  • August is here

    August is here

    Author: wickedAdmin

    August is here and temperatures this month will have highs of about 90-95 and lows in the mid-70’s. With more than 8 inches of rain this is usually one of the wettest and most humid months.
    Keep in mind that though it may be a wet month, transpiration is very high during the hot weather. I wrote about this in another column. Transpiration is a plant process in which water is absorbed by the roots, passed through the vascular system and exited from the plant into the atmosphere. It is a process which cools the plant much like perspiration cools us. This means lawns and plants need large quantities of water more frequently in the hot summer. So be alert for signs of insufficient water between rain showers and use your sprinklers as needed to avoid damage.
    Mosquitos have been in the news lately as carriers of several serious diseases. Encephalitis, West Nile Virus and Deng Fever. While it started out with large numbers, this has not been a bad year as far as mosquito populations are concerned but any mosquito bite could mean trouble. With a lot of rain the mosquitos could increase in numbers. It is very important for everyone to check for any places around your home or business where water collects as you may be raising mosquitos. You should get rid of old tires, buckets and other containers, or you should keep them empty of water. Repair leaky outside faucets and move air conditioner drain hoses frequently to avoid damp soil. Also change and scrub bird baths or watering pans for pets at least twice a week. All of the mosquito species require water for breeding. Mosquito larvae are not adapted to life in moving waters so circulating ponds should not be a problem. They occur instead in quiet water. Since half the land area of Florida is subject to flooding, mosquitos breed in large numbers throughout the state. Mosquitos do not breed in the heavy undergrowth of weeds or shrubs. Although these places offer excellent refuge for adults as anyone gardening can attest, they do not provide a suitable habitat for mosquito larvae. In addition to fresh water mosquitos, we are surrounded by mangrove islands which is a great breeding ground for the salt water mosquito.
    The wet weather of August also provides ideal conditions for the growth of fungi. Root- rot, leaf spot, stem rots and rust are a few disease problems on lawns and shrubs which are fueled by the heavy rains. Remove diseased leaves and stems from the garden and apply a fungicide to prevent fungus from infecting healthy tissue. And, remember to clean your pruning tools with a mild bleach solution to prevent spreading disease while cutting healthy tissue with those same tools. Take-all Patch is a serious lawn disease which can cause your lawn to melt away with the heavy rains.
    Caterpillars are around in great numbers this year. I have noticed large numbers of sod webworm moths flying from St. Augustine lawns. Stinging caterpillars are also probably around right now. Several varieties of stinging caterpillars can be found on shrubs and trees including the I.O., saddleback, puss and hag. The sting comes from the spines on their backs which are connected to poison glands. Their sting is extremely painful and can cause severe allergic reaction in susceptible people. These caterpillars can be controlled with Thuricide or Seven.
    Scales and whiteflies are also active on ornamentals causing sooty mold. Treat with horticultural oil, Merritt or Tempo for control. Chinch bugs, sod webworms and grubs can all damage your St. Augustine lawn this month. Treat as needed with Tempo or other products labeled as effective on chinch bugs, Dylox for grubs and Dipel for the sod webworms.
    If you see a white web on the branches and trunks of your trees, don’t be alarmed. It is a psocid, a tiny insect that feeds on the algae on the trunks of many trees. They spin the web for protection from those August rain showers. There is no need to treat for this problem.
    It is best not to fertilize your lawn in August. If you feel you must fertilize St. Augustine use an organic such as milorganite or iron for a greener color. Do not use a high nitrogen fertilizer now as it will fuel bug and disease problems. It can also make the lawn more susceptible to water stress which can be a problem in high times of high transpiration as the rapidly growing grass requires larger quantities of water.
    When there have been heavy rains the acid loving plants like ixora, gardenia and azalea could use a feeding this month to carry them through their blooming period. Don’t forget to feed rose bushes regularly as well. A good nutritional spray can be helpful for all your plants at this time. Nutritional sprays trans-locate directly through the leaves and so avoids the problem of leaching through the soil which can occur with heavy rains.
    The last pruning of the poinsettias must be done before September if there are to be flowers, actually bracts, in December for the holiday season. You should also not do any more severe pruning of gardenias beyond August as you will remove the old growth required for flowers in the spring.
    Prepare your flower and vegetable beds for fall planting. Rid the site of nematodes and disease using plastic solarization or fumigants. Add organic matter to the soil and then let it rest in preparation for fall planting in October and November.
    It is unbearably hot out there in the garden but you need to put on a good hat and your sun screen and stay on top of your gardening or the bugs, diseases and weeds will take over.
  • Ixora in their full flowering glory

    Ixora in their full flowering glory

    Author: wickedAdmin

    The ixora are in their full flowering glory right now. During the summer months the ixora is one of the most colorful flowering shrubs in our landscapes. The growth habit of the ixora is upright, compact and well branched. Texture can range from course to medium fine depending on the variety. The leaves are shiny, green and leathery. They are opposite or whorled, and oblong to 4 inches with short petioles. Stems on new growth are reddish and older bark is dark brown.
    There are four varieties of ixora which are most popular with landscapers and homeowners. The growth habits differ greatly so you should know which variety you want when you buy an ixora.
    Singapore and Maui have a similar habit of growth. Singapore has a yellow flower while Maui is red. This ixora is used for hedges as it is well adapted to shearing. They prefer a sunny exposure with well drained, moist soil conditions. Its size will range from 3 to 6 feet.
    The King ixora is a larger variety used in mixed shrub groupings as an eye catching color specimen plant. It loses its impact when used in a mass or hedge form. Its texture is courser than the Maui and its size is 5 to 10 feet.
    King ixora
    The Dwarf Red ixora is the smallest variety averaging 1 to 3 feet with a very slow habit of growth. This is a compact variety with tiny leaves. It is also well adapted to shearing and is a good choice for a low border in front of taller shrubs.
    Dwarf red
    The Nora Grant ixora is probably the most popular variety in today’s landscapes. Nora Grant is a large variety like the King ixora. The leaves and flowers are larger giving it a course texture. It will average 5 to 10 feet. This ixora should be planted where it will not require constant shearing as the flowering will be greatly reduced by this.
    Pest problems for the ixora include nematodes, aphids and scale.
    Ixoras are also susceptible to diseases of the stem and root. Symptoms of this problem include yellowing leaves, splitting stems and general decline of the shrub. Especially affected are the Dwarf and Nora Grant varieties. Removal of the split, diseased wood by pruning back to healthy wood and treatment with a systemic fungicide will usually bring the disease under control. Nutritional deficiency, especially iron, will exacerbate this problem. Ixoras like a slightly acid and fertile soil. Fertilize twice during the growing season using an 8-2-8 with minor elements. Sequestran iron works especially well for the acid loving ixora.
    Which ever variety of Ixora you choose you can be sure to have a lot of summer color in your garden from this plant.
  • Grueling temperatures in during the summer months

    Grueling temperatures in during the summer months

    Author: wickedAdmin

    Whew! Summer temperatures are here a bit early again this year. Just walking from the house to the car can be grueling. If your job involves work in that grueling environment for eight to twelve hours, every day it can become dangerous enough to kill you. Outdoor workers and players should be aware and conscious of the people who work or play with them and watch for signs of distress or illness. Encourage those who work for or with you to sit in the shade and drink cool water as needed. False bravado or the desire to impress the boss, have no place in these temperatures and should be discouraged.
    If you don’t have to work outdoors, yet choose to exercise or do some of your own yard work, be sure to stay hydrated and try to work or play during the early morning or late afternoon hours when it is a little cooler.
    Following are excerpts from the Workmen’s Compensation Workplace Safety publications. Familiarize yourself with the symptoms of heat stress and heat stroke so you can take appropriate action immediately if you suspect either in yourself or someone you are with. It could save a life. Please share these with anyone you think would benefit from this knowledge.
    The human body likes to maintain a constant internal temperature and so must rid itself of excessive heat. It does this through blood circulation at the outer layers of the skin and releasing fluid onto the skin through the sweat glands. When temperatures are warmer, the skin sweating is the only way for the body to maintain a constant body temperature. This only works if the sweat is removed from the skin by evaporation. When humidity is high, the evaporation of sweat is decreased, causing body temperatures to rise significantly.
    Humans can acclimate to heat by gradual exposure to a hot environment. This process can take 5 to 7 days. Heat related illnesses are more likely to happen to people who have not gradually acclimated to hot temperatures. Accidents are more likely in hot environments due to sweaty palms, dizziness or fogging of safety glasses. Mental confusion, tiredness and irritability are signs of overheating. This can result in poor judgement and unsafe practices.
    Too much exposure to heat can cause a variety of problems and illnesses. Heat cramps are painful muscle spasms that can occur when doing hard physical labor in a hot environment. Fainting can happen when standing in one position for an extended period of time in the heat. Moving around, rather than standing still can help prevent this. Heat rash occurs when sweat does not evaporate from the skin. Sweat ducts become clogged, resulting in a rash. Heat rash could result in an infection. Take frequent breaks in a cool place during the day and bathe and dry the skin as often as possible to help prevent heat rash.
    Heat exhaustion is more serious and is caused by the loss of large amounts of fluid by sweating. This can include loss of salt as well. Signs and symptoms include headache, dizziness, weakness, mood changes (confused or irritable), feeling sick to stomach, vomiting, decreased or dark colored urine, light headed or fainting, pale clammy skin. Treat victims of heat exhaustion by moving the person to a cool, shady area, provide cool water to drink, cool the person by fanning them, cool the skin with a wet cloth, lay the victim on their back and raise legs 6 to 8 inches if they are dizzy, lay the victim on their side if nausea occurs, loosen and remove heavy clothing and stay with the victim.
    Call for emergency help if they do not feel better in a few minutes. If heat exhaustion is not treated, it may advance to heat stroke. Heat stroke is the most serious heat related illness. Heat stroke occurs when the body’s temperature regulating system fails and sweating fails or is not adequate to remove the body’s excess heat. Signs of heat stroke are dry, pale skin ( no sweating), hot red skin, mood changes (irritable, confused), seizures or fits and collapse and unconsciousness.
    Prompt first aid for someone suffering heat stroke can mean life and death and should include the same first aid as heat exhaustion plus call for emergency help, lay the person on their back unless unconscious, remove objects close by if person is having a seizure, provide cool water to drink if conscious and place ice under arm pits and in the groin area.
    People are at increased risk for heat related illnesses when they are dehydrated, fatigued, have infrequent exposure to hot temperatures and high humidity, are over the age of 40, are in poor physical condition or overweight, use certain medications (antihistamines, diuretics and some tranquilizers), have had prior heat related illnesses, use drugs or alcohol within the past 24 hours, have heat rash or sunburn or wear restrictive clothing or too much clothing.
    People and employers can protect themselves and employees by following these recommendations. Train all employees on the signs and symptoms of heat related illnesses and how to respond. Schedule the hardest work during the coolest part of the day. Encourage the buddy system so help is close by if needed. Provide plenty of cool water and encourage drinking one cup every 15 to 20 minutes. Encourage wearing light colored, loose fitting breathable (cotton) clothing. Provide frequent short breaks in cool shaded areas. Encourage employees to avoid eating large meals or consuming caffeine and alcoholic beverages before and during work in hot environments. Use fans or air conditioning. Provide tools and equipment that help reduce physical demands on employees.
    Be aware and alert to those around you. If your partner is normally friendly and suddenly becomes angry and verbally aggressive it could be the first sign of heat exhaustion. Point this out and make them take a break. It is really a dangerous work and play environment in Florida during the summer months.
  • July a very wet month

    July a very wet month

    Author: wickedAdmin

    Second only to August, July is one of the hottest months with high temperatures averaging 90 degrees and lows averaging 75 degrees. We can expect at least 8 inches of rain making July a very wet month.
    Heavy summer rains can cause nutritional deficiencies in some plants and annuals by washing nutrients through our sandy soil. An application of iron should green them up again. Watch your azaleas and feed them by late spring for strong growth that will give you flowers next spring. It is really too late to prune your azaleas without affecting next years’ flowers. Hibiscus and ixora are in their glory during the hot summer months. A feeding of 8-0-8, or similar analysis, before the summer rains begin, will help keep the flowers on the plant. If they have been subjected to standing or copious amounts of water do not water or fertilize them until they have had a chance to dry out. This is a good time to prune back hibiscus, ixora and oleander to control their size and encourage healthy new growth.
    Citrus trees need to be fertilized if you did not do it in June. This feeding will help your crop mature. Fertilizer should be scattered evenly beneath the canopy of the tree. Be sure not to have fertilizer come in contact with the trunk of any plant. It can cause severe burn and rot of the bark resulting in poor health and possibly eventual death.
    Do not fertilize your St. Augustine lawn in July. Bahia also needs very little fertilizer. If your bahia lawn shows need for fertilizer you should have applied a light application of ammonium nitrate in late spring to revive it. Apply to a dry lawn and water in immediately to avoid burning the blades of grass. Be sure not to scalp your lawn too short to avoid scorching of the crown and roots by the hot summer sun. This is a good time of year to grow roots in your lawn. Remember, the longer the blade the deeper the root. However, it is also important to remember to mow frequently enough to avoid mowing more than one-third of the blades at a time. This can prove difficult when summer rain storms can dump five or ten inches at a time. Take advantage of the rains to sprig St. Augustine Aplugs@ or Bahia seed in any bare spots in your lawn. Chinch bugs, sod webworms and mole crickets are all active so watch for and treat as necessary. Areas damaged in the dry spring months will be more susceptible to both insect and disease problems. Watch for leaf and root disease on St. Augustine grass. A preventative treatment of fungicide would help ward off disease problems in spring stressed lawns. A fungicide such as Banner Maxx, Bayleton, Eagle, Heritage or Cleary 3336 can be used as a preventative treatment for Take-all Patch or other diseases on your lawn.
    Scale, aphids and chewing insects can all be a problem on your ornamentals in July. Worms and weevils will chew along the edges of the leaves, while grasshoppers and katydids chew holes in the center of leaves.
    Diseases are active on ornamentals, flowers and vegetables. Watch for powdery mildew, leaf spots, blights and rots. This is a good time to prune your plants by removing crossing or diseased branches. Timely treatment with a fungicide and good housekeeping of fallen leaves and twigs will help keep diseases in control.
    Some annuals to plant for the hot weather include daisies, zinnias, marigolds, pentas, lantana, salvia, or vinca. Divide crowded beds of bulbs and rhizomes when they stop blooming to assure larger blooms next year.
    Fruits which ripen in July include avocado, carambola, guava, mango, natal plum, passion fruit, papaya and pineapple. This is a good time to plant fruit trees and bananas.
    If you planted your poinsettias after Christmas they may need some attention. Scab can be a problem in July. This is a disease which looks like a scab on your skin and can be controlled with copper fungicide. Prune poinsettias now to promote branching which will result in more bracts (flowers) this winter. Watch for horn worms as they can defoliate a plant in just a few days. The horn worm is a large green worm with a sprig on its posterior end. Its light green color blends in with the foliage so look closely to find it.
    Be sure to keep your roses fertilized after every flush of bloom. You may need to spray on a weekly basis to control black spot and powdery mildew.
    Some flowering plants now blooming are ixora, flame-vine, crape myrtle, hibiscus, and one of the most beautiful, the night blooming cereus. It is worth a trip outside after dark to see this one.
    You will need to pay close attention to your lawn and shrubs now since insect pests and disease are very active in the hot, wet month of July. This is not a month for faint of heart gardeners!
  • Symptoms of nutritional deficiencies in rainy summer season

    Symptoms of nutritional deficiencies in rainy summer season

    Author: wickedAdmin

    As we begin our rainy summer season the following is a guide to help you with the symptoms of various nutritional deficiencies that you might notice. This can help you decide which, if any, fertilizer to use.
    There are sixteen known elements required for healthy plants. Three of these, carbon (C), hydrogen (H) and oxygen (O) all can be obtained directly from air and water. The other thirteen elements are supplied through the soil. These are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), sulfur (S), chlorine (Cl), copper (Cu), zinc (Zn), manganese (Mn), iron (Fe), boron (B), and molybdenum (Mo).
    Each of these elements has a specific function in plant growth and development. If one or more of these nutrients are present in excessive amounts, toxicity or a nutrient imbalance can occur. Or if one or more of these essential elements are in short supply a deficiency can result. Either way plant growth and/or quality may be affected.
    The nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are the main components, or macro-nutrients, of fertilizer. Sulfur, the remaining macro-nutrient, may not be a component of fertilizer and should not be overlooked. Look for fertilizer containing sulfur coated urea nitrogen.
    The micro-nutrients to be used sparingly are boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. Chlorine ordinarily is not valued as a plant food in fertilizer. It can be injurious if high percentages are present, but small amounts may be beneficial under some conditions. If you have plants or lawn around your pool equipment or overflow which don’t do well it may be chlorine toxicity.
    Micro-nutrients are required by plants in low quantities so you should apply them cautiously. If a deficiency is suspected, it would be unwise to randomly apply all of the micro-nutrients. The result might be correction of one deficiency while inducing a toxicity of another micro-nutrient. Foliar analysis is the most accurate way to determine if a micro-nutrient deficiency needs correcting. The Collier County Extension Office can help you with this test. Individual micro-nutrients are available with suggested rates provided for application. However, it is essential that all micro-nutrients be provided in your fertilizer program at least once a year. Fertilizer formulations are available for shrubs, citrus, palms, etc. containing a good balance of these necessary micro-nutrients. Nutritional sprays are liquid formulations that contain the micro-nutrients. These sprays allow the elements to enter the plant through the leaf surfaces. The micro-nutrients can be tied up in our alkaline soil, due to improper pH, when applied as a granular fertilizer and may not be available to the plant. Therefore, when a micro-nutrient deficiency is apparent, it is more effective to apply a nutritional spray.
    General symptoms of nutrient deficiencies are as follows:
    Nitrogen – yellowing of entire plant with lower leaves worse and stunted.
    Phosphorus – main veins of old leaves become purple or reddish. On fruit trees blossoms drop, fruit is small and matures slowly and few flower buds are formed for next year’s crop.
    Potassium – light yellowing, then browning of leaf margins on old leaves. Then veins become yellow.
    Manganese – mottled yellowing between midrib and primary veins. Entire leaf may turn yellow but midrib and large veins stay green longest. Frizzle top, yellowing, dwarfing and distortion.
    Iron – pronounced yellowing on younger leaves, with veins appearing as a pale green or yellow to white if acute. Dwarf leaves, leaf fall, dead wood, dead tips and reduced growth.
    Magnesium – yellowing begins on the margin and near the center of old leaf, progresses inward and downward; the tip, upper margin and lower central veins may remain green; necrosis and leaf drop.
    Molybdenum – often mistaken for herbicide damage. Dwarfed leaves with irregular, wrinkled margins and prominent midribs and main veins on young leaves and shoots.
    Boron – plants grow slowly. Terminal buds die and plant tends to be bushy. Later, lateral buds die, leaves thicken and fruits, tubers and roots become cracked and discolored.
    Copper – usually confined to peat or muck soils. Slow growth or complete cessation of growth. Tips affected first and eventually die back.
    Zinc – leaves become long and narrow, then turn yellow and become mottled with dead areas. Symptoms similar to iron deficiency.
    To avoid the above problems your plants should get a good feeding in the spring months using a quality slow release fertilizer with minors. If you notice symptoms in your plants after many heavy summer rain storms give them a light feeding to get them through the rest of the summer until you do another complete fertilizing in the fall.
    Fertilizer is fast becoming an issue as the waters of the Gulf of Mexico continue to decline in health. While fertilizer is not the only culprit, it is definitely one of the players. Lawns, trees and shrubs do not need as much fertilizer as some would have you think. Begin with twice a year for your shrubs and then just fertilize those that are showing signs of need. Palms and citrus are two exceptions needing three to four applications a year. Most native plants in your yard should breeze right through the seasons with almost no needs at all. When in doubt send a soil or tissue sample to determine the plant’s exact needs. You can find the information on how to do this at the University of Florida web site. If we all do our part, perhaps we can slow down the decline of the waters that surround us.
  • Yellowing of lawns

    Yellowing of lawns

    Author: wickedAdmin

    What can cause yellowing St. Augustine lawns? My own lawn suffers every year from yellowing that can be caused by excessive growth and loss of nutrients from heavy summer rainfall. Every year at the beginning of September I watch as my lawn turns an undesirable yellow color. The soil here in Old Marco is basically shell. Digging a garden requires a pick ax and lots of brawn. This type of soil does not hold its nutrients and needs its fall fertilizer sooner than a lawn with more desirable soil. Another great example of how fertilizer black out dates can be harmful to some plants, but I digress.
    Also with the summer rains comes the disease Take-all Patch. Lawns on Marco Island are being attacked by this disease that causes them to slowly die. After treatments with the usual fungicides from spray companies failed to stop the slow death of many lawns I sent samples of three lawns to the University of Florida. All three came back with the same diagnosis, Take-all patch (Gaeumannomyces graminis var. graminis). Take-all patch looks very similar to brown patch but does not respond to the same treatment and so here are the details of this stubborn lawn disease.
    During extended drought periods a lot of lawns can develop dry, brown patches which are the result of improper coverage by irrigation systems due to broken or misdirected sprinkler heads or low water pressure. These dry areas are weakened and therefore more susceptible to insect and disease problems.
    Take-all patch on St. Augustine is a disease which was diagnosed in 1991 at Texas A & M University. They received many samples of St. Augustine with symptoms of a patch disease which proved not to be the common Rhizoctonia brown patch. Specialists and homeowners reported that the patches did not respond to fungicides usually effective against brown patch.
    The symptoms of the disease are very similar to those of Rhizoctonia brown patch. The leaf blades become yellowish or bronze just before they become brown and necrotic. In the winter, patches appear tan to straw-colored. The spots are somewhat circular and a foot to several yards in diameter. These spots may become irregular as they merge or as the disease is spread. Weeds will begin to invade these damaged areas.
    The nodes (joints on the grass runner where roots and leaves develop) may become infected and develop brownish discoloration. The roots may be dry and decayed near the node. Plants in infected areas are easily pulled or lifted from the ground. During heat or drought stress the diseased turf declines in comparison with the surrounding healthy turf and the patches become irregular.
    Take-all Patch is most active when abundant moisture and cool temperatures are present. When conditions are favorable the fungus grows on the surface of roots, stolons, rhizomes, crowns and blades of the grass and then penetrates and infects the tissues. During this stage of the disease the distinct patches are formed in contrast to the healthy turf. As the weather becomes warmer and dryer in spring the weakened turf may become easily stressed and begin to decline further forming irregular patches on thinned, weakened turf. The disease begins to spread with heavy summer rains.
    Nitrogen fertilizer seems to have an effect on take-all patch. Nitrogen in ammonia form seems to be less favorable for disease development than nitrogen in nitrate form. Soil-acidifying fertilizers, such as ammonia sulfate, tend to suppress the disease. For those of you who cannot fertilize in September with nitrogen local professionals have used a combination of iron, manganese, magnesium and potassium. Look for a product labeled 0-0-14 plus the iron(Fe), manganese (Mn) and magnesium (Mg) in sulfate or chelate forms.
    Disease pathogens are commonly present in turf and Florida’s climate frequently favors disease development. Fortunately, using good cultural practices including mowing, irrigation and fertilizing will help protect your lawn from succumbing to disease.
    Improper mowing height and frequency can weaken the grass and lower its tolerance to disease. Dull mower blades can tear rather than cut the blades. This torn tissue provides an avenue for the pathogens to infect the grass.
    Prolonged periods of high humidity, rain, fog, or heavy dew mean moisture on the plant surface which is also necessary for most pathogens to infect turf. Turf entering the night period moist from irrigation or rain is more likely to become diseased. While we cannot modify nature, irrigation can be controlled to reduce the incidence of disease by assuring leaf drying before nightfall. Always irrigate early in the morning. Since the pathogen can survive on infected thatch, efforts to de-thatch and to prevent thatch accumulation may help.
    The susceptibility of turf to disease is also affected by nutrition. Properly fertilized grass is more resistant to disease and recovers faster if it should become diseased. Moderate fertilization using slow release fertilizer is best. I see a lot of over spraying of chemicals as well. Mixing insecticide and herbicide in hot summer weather almost always stresses the lawn. Desperately spraying chemical cocktails trying to save lawns doesn’t usually end well.
    Areas infected with Take-all Patch can be replanted with healthy grass. Surrounding areas should be treated with a preventative systemic fungicide. Fungicides which have been recommended by Dr. Phil Harmon for preventing this disease include Prostar, Heritage, Compass, granular “Q o I”, Armada and Headway.
     After treatment with on of the above fungicides I have seen the decline stop and these areas begin to slowly regenerate as the stolons begin to fill in the damaged areas. This is always an option if you don’t want to re-sod. Just remember to practice proper horticultural practices to prevent the disease from taking hold again.
  • Different species of palm trees on Marco Island

    Different species of palm trees on Marco Island

    Author: wickedAdmin

    We have many different species of palm trees on Marco Island due to our favorable climate for their growth. They come in many shapes and sizes from large majestic trees to small shrubs. Some have single trunks while others have multiple trunks. All but our native palms come from a more tropical climate than ours. Occasionally our winters can be very cold by sub-tropical standards and our more tropical plants and palms can suffer some stress and cold damage. As summer arrives these damaged palms begin to decline leaving people wondering what is wrong with their palm trees. The basic premise is that it is not really possible to determine whether your ailing palm is due to disease, nutritional deficiency or cold damage until at least July of the following year. A simple time line for damage after cold is as follows. Leaf damage within a few days, spear rot (the area of new growth) after several weeks, bud survival will not be known for six to eight months but watch for new growth in July and micro-nutrient deficient leaves for several months due to cold non-functioning roots. What to do? Do not remove leaves until the cold is gone. If there is any green on the leaves, the tree will use nutrients from that leaf for recovery. Remove the spear leaf if it is rotten and easily pulls out and then drench the heart with copper fungicide. This is a good anti-microbial activity not an attempt to control disease. Even though the central spear rotted the meristem (growth point) may still be alive and re-sprout as noted above.
    A very important task is to fertilize to give the palm the nutrients it will need for recovery. Not just any fertilizer will do. They are recommending a special blend of 8-2-12. Not all 8-2-12 blends are created equal however. You should read the label and look for slow release Nitrogen, Potassium and Manganese (large white, prilled Kieserite). The Boron should also be granular slow release. The magnesium and iron should be water-soluble. Shop around to find a dealer that carries this blend or something similar.
    When applying fertilizer to your palms, the best method is to scatter the fertilizer on the ground below out to the drip line of the fronds. Deep root injections simply shoot the fertilizer below the majority of roots and into the ground and water below. Don’t waste your money or time with this practice. If you have trees surrounded by pavement or other hard scape features attempt to scatter fertilizer on any exposed soil surface out to the drip line and beyond. Foliar applications are another method.
    We use palms in the landscape as specimens, border plants, hedges and even as patio trees in pots. Specimen plants used individually have a distinctive quality that adds an immediate tropical look. For border or hedge plants palms with dense foliage help screen or fill in an area. Smaller species with little or no shedding problems are excellent for patios. Be sure you choose the right palm for the right place.
    Some palms are self cleaning, meaning they shed their fronds, while others will need to be cleaned occasionally to rid them of brown fronds and falling fruit.
    Some of the more popular self cleaning palms are the areca palm, Christmas palm, royal palm and the foxtail palms. These palms will save you in maintenance costs but there will be debris to dispose of on a regular basis. The royal palm fronds can be very heavy so this tree should be placed in the landscape very carefully. Royal palms should not be planted where they may be dangerous to pedestrians and automobiles beneath them. A stand of areca palms, while providing a wonderful, tropical screen for privacy can produce a truckload of fronds for disposal each week.
    Some of the more popular palms which will need cleaning occasionally are the queen palm, washington palm or coconut palm. When cleaning palms which don’t readily shed their fronds you should do so very carefully. Pruning can remove food reserves stored in the fronds and also leaf surface area which decreases the tree’s ability to harvest sunlight for more food. Palms also take moisture from the air through their fronds. If the frond is green leave it on the tree.
    A practice called “hurricane cutting” is not a good idea. This practice involves removing not only the dead, brown fronds but also beneficial green fronds leaving only a few fronds sticking straight into the air like a telephone pole. Not a pretty sight. Also very bad for the health of the trees for all the reasons listed above plus severe cutting of the fronds stunts root growth which will in turn stunt the tree’s growth and leave it susceptible to other diseases. This practice will also lessen the diameter of the trunk and weaken the area near the heart or bud of the tree making it more likely to be damaged in high winds.
    I read an article suggesting you should never prune a palm tree, period. While this is a good idea in theory, dirty palms are not aesthetically pleasing to most people. I personally don’t prune my palm trees. I find the skirt of brown fronds hanging to be attractive. Old fronds which stay on these palms attract nesting insects and rodents. The insects are good food for birds and I’d rather have the rats in my trees than my attic. Mature coconuts can be dangerous much the way a royal palm can be. A mature coconut palm can be 100′ tall. A coconut falling from that height onto your head would really hurt! You can prevent the formation of palm fruits by removing the flower stalks as they emerge.
    When pruning palms be careful not to cut or injure the terminal bud or the whole tree could die. Cut the fronds from the underside to avoid tearing the fibers of the palm’s stem.
    The most important thing to remember is if the frond is green, the tree is still using it so leave it!
    An exception to this rule is the transplanted sabal or cabbage palm. The survival rate for these palms transplanted without fronds is 95% compared to 65% of those transplanted with one third of their fronds remaining. In addition to lower survival rates for palms transplanted with fronds the fact that all original fronds will die and will have to be removed later makes this practice costly in terms of labor. Complete frond removal appears to be the best method for transplanting sabal palms which lose all their roots in the transplant operation.
    Trimming palm trees is a dangerous and precise procedure which should be left to professional tree trimming companies with an understanding of proper pruning practices. Just remember to go easy on them if you want healthy and attractive palm trees.
  • Start of Summer

    Start of Summer

    Author: wickedAdmin

    The official start of summer is almost here with the beginning of June. June is the start of the rainy season as well as the first month of hurricane season. Here we go!
    Temperatures and humidity begin to rise with highs in the 90s and lows in the 70s. While we may see a lot of rain we may also experience periods with little or no rain. Due to the increased transevaporation rate, these higher temperatures can cause water stress on lawns, shrubs and trees in a short period of time. So it is important to have your sprinkler system on and set to twice a week allowing for one inch of water per week with a rain sensor that will turn the system on and off with ½ inch of rain. That way your system will water even if we have those short bursts of rain that only water a fraction of an inch.
    If you have not fertilized yet you need to get this done. The plants will tolerate the higher temperatures and stress of summer much better if they are healthy and well fed. Also, it is better to not fertilize in the summer as it can cause excessive growth which thins and weakens plant cell walls allowing for disease problems. Not to mention the extra work it will create for all you gardeners out there. Use a lawn fertilizer with 50% slow release nitrogen and equal amounts of nitrogen and potassium. If you have palms in your landscape they will especially like this analysis. An example is a 15-0-15 analysis. For shrubs and palms choose an acid and palm mix which will help lower the ph. of your soil. The ixoras, gardenias and magnolias will do well with this fertilizer along with most of the plants in the landscape. Mulch will help with weed suppression and as it decomposes will also add organic matter to the soil and help to lower the ph.
    Shrubs and trees should be prepared for hurricane season by pruning and trimming back. Formal hedges should be trimmed often enough so that you are trimming only new and supple growth. Individual shrubs that have overgrown the bounds of the garden should be brought under control before the growing season of summer gets underway. You can either head back by trimming all terminal branch ends back to your desired size or thin the shrub by trimming longer branches back into the shrub reducing the overall size of the shrub to allow for summer growth.
    Trees should be thinned of crossing and interfering branches removing any that touch buildings or are too close to overhead power lines. Quite often power outages are caused by overgrown trees blowing into power lines causing short circuits or completely breaking the lines. Also dead branches can disconnect from the trunk and damage anything nearby. So check your trees because the month of June is a good time to contact your tree company to inspect your trees and trim as necessary.
    Palm trees should only be pruned to a 3 o’clock 9 o’clock shape. Never remove so many palm fronds that it goes straight up into the air. Palm trees use their fronds to make food for the tree from the sun through a process called photosynthesis. They also take water from the air for the tree. When you remove too many green fronds the tree’s ability to make food is greatly diminished. Another reason is that the heart or growth point of a palm is in the middle of the fronds directly above the brown wood of the trunk. When you remove too many green fronds it exposes this area and weakens it making the entire top of the palm tree susceptible to breaking off during hurricane winds. The term “hurricane cut” should not mean removing most of the green fronds. It is a bad practice so avoid doing it.
    Most winter annuals are spent and need to be cleaned from your flower gardens if you have not already done so. There are many annuals and perennials that will tolerate our summer heat and rain and can be planted in June. Following are a few:
    Celosia, Cosmos, Dahlia, Marigold, Portulaca, Salvia, Sunflower, Verbena, Vinca and Zinnia.
    Bulbs for our area include: Caladium, Canna Lily, Crinium lily , Day Lily, Gloriosa Lily and society garlic.
    Some pests to watch for include aphids, whitefly, scale and caterpillars on shrubs. And Chinch bugs, grubs and mole crickets on lawns. And with the start of the rains disease will become more prevalent.
    Put on your hat, gloves and sunscreen and prepare yourselves for the hard summer months of gardening ahead. June is just the beginning.

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