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  • Proper irrigation for plant health

    Proper irrigation for plant health

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    Proper irrigation is very important for plant health. Too much or too little can both be damaging to plants.
    I’ll begin with a description of a process called evapotranspiration.  This process combines evaporation and transpiration.  Evaporation is when water changes from a liquid to a gas and moves into the atmosphere from the surface of bodies of water, wet soil or wet plants.  Transpiration is a process the plant uses to cool itself.  Water is taken up by the roots from the soil or into the leaves from rain or irrigation and translocated through the plant and exits from the stomata in the leaves cooling the plant as it exits.  The process is much like our own perspiration for cooling our bodies.
    Evapotranspiration rates vary with the type of plants as well as the weather.  And irrigation should be adjusted accordingly to avoid the dreaded over and under watering I mentioned.  The hot, dry and windy spring months have the highest evaporation rates.  But the hottest months of summer are also have some of the highest evaporation rates.  It is a common practice to turn irrigation systems off during the summer rainy season but this causes the death of many lawns in the summer.  Rain can be sporadic to nonexistent at times and it doesn’t take long for our sandy soils to experience drought conditions.  And that means the plants have no water to take up from the soil or absorb from rain and no way to cool off during months with the highest transpiration need.  It’s like a person being stuck in the desert with no water.  The cooler months of late fall and winter are the months to save on your water bill since the evapotranspiration rate decreases greatly during those months.  And many people over water in the cooler months because there is less rain and they feel the plants need more irrigation which brings on disease.  And then if disease does appear it causes the cells to collapse and so they cannot translocate the water and the plants turn brown which people mistake for a need for more water.  In fact they are feeding the fungus and causing death. 
    The main objective is to grow plants that will survive with little to no irrigation.  You want a deep extensive root system which can be achieved using proper management practices.  And proper irrigation is the first step.
    Frequent light watering can cause a shallow root system.  To develop a deep root system you should only water when plants show a sign of need.  Like wilting.  This is usually only twice a week at most and preferably only once a week.  And when you do water only apply enough to wet the root zone, approximately ½ to ¾ of an inch with each watering.
    The next step is to figure out how long to irrigate to apply ½ inch to your lawn and plants.  Most people run the sprinklers for a given number of minutes without knowing how much water they are really applying.  Determining the rate of water your system applies is a pretty easy job.
    • Obtain five to ten straight sided containers to catch the irrigation water. Tuna cans or something similar in size are perfect.
    • Place the containers in one zone at a time scattering them at random within the zone. Repeat this in every zone because there may be differences in the irrigation rates.
    • Run the water for fifteen minutes.
    • Use a ruler to measure the depth of water in each container. Measurements to the nearest eighth of an inch are adequate.
    • Find the average depth by adding the depths and then divide by the number of containers.
    • To determine the irrigation rate in inches per hour multiply the average depth of water times four.
    Try to calibrate the system at the same time of day that it is run so that water pressures are similar. Low water pressure can reduce the amount and coverage of water applied by the system.
    Never mix sprinkler head types.  Mist heads apply more water than stream and rotor heads.  You need to match sprinkler heads for uniform coverage.  A mist head can apply the needed ½ inch in 15 minutes where a rotor head will need 30 to 60 minutes depending on whether it is a 180 degree radius or a 360 degree radius.  If you mix these in the same zone you will be applying too much or too little depending on how long you program the zone to run.  Match sprinkler heads for uniform coverage.  It can take a month or two to condition your yard to survive several days between irrigation or rainfall.  During this time the root system is developing and growing deeper into the soil.
    You need to check your system frequently, especially if you see dry spots appearing on the lawn or shrubs and flowers wilting.    You may have broken heads, clogged nozzles or need to adjust the direction of the spray.  Also check that shrubs have not grown over the heads and are now blocking the water from reaching areas.  You should not run the sprinklers longer trying to turn the brown spots green because most likely there is no water reaching those areas and running it longer will not change that.
    Watering your flower beds should be a special consideration.  Overhead watering can cause disease and so drip irrigation is the way to go.  It is best to tap into a rotor head zone if possible since they will typically run for 45 to 60 minutes which is ideal for a drip irrigated flower bed.
    Lawn zones should be separate from shrub zones since they need to run longer and tend to have rotor rather than mist heads.  It depends on where the lawn zone is located.  Is it in the full sun or shade?  On a hill or flat surface?  Do the heads need to turn 180 or 360 degrees.  You need to time the zone according to the different conditions. 
    Shrubs may need little to no irrigation once they are established.   Shrubs have a more extensive root system than either lawns or flowers and so can go longer between watering than either of those. 
  • Learning how to propagate plants

    Learning how to propagate plants

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    Learning how to propagate plants is an exciting way to share your plants with others.
    Plants can be propagated by sexual or asexual means.  Sexual propagation is starting plants from seed.   Multiplying of plants from vegetative plant parts such as shoots, roots and leaves or bulbs and corms is called asexual propagation.
    Asexual propagation will grow plants with the same characteristics as the parent plant.  It is the best method of reproduction when a plant produces seeds which are difficult to germinate.  The most common method of asexual propagation is from cuttings.  Cuttings can be made from stems, roots and leaves.  Cuttings should be taken from healthy plants and placed in a warm, humid environment to encourage root development and prevent them from drying.
    Stem cuttings can be taken at different stages of vegetative maturity, from just the growing tip of a stem or stem sections, depending on the plant being propagated.  Softwood cuttings are generally taken from plants in spring or early summer during a growth flush when tissue is soft and succulent.  Semi-hardwood cuttings are taken after a growth flush has matured.
    Stem cuttings are removed using a clean, sharp pruner.  Cuttings should be four to six inches in length.  Remove the leaves from the bottom one inch of the stem cuttings and then stick them just deep enough to hold them upright into a medium suitable for propagation.  A mixture of equal parts of peat moss and course pearlite is a suitable rooting medium for most plants.  Combinations of other materials such as shredded sphagnum, vermiculite and sand will also do.  The medium should drain freely and be free of disease and weed seeds.  Root promoting chemicals can be applied to the ends of cuttings before sticking them in the medium to enhance rooting.  These rooting hormone preparations are available at most garden centers.
    Leaf cuttings might be only the leaf blade or the leaf blade and petiole (leaf-stem).  Begonias are commonly propagated by leaf cuttings.  Leaf cuttings are cut on the underside of the main veins then placed flat and in firm contact with the medium.  It can be helpful to pin the leaves in place with small stakes or toothpicks.  Or, leaf cuttings can be stuck upright in the medium making sure the basal end of the cutting is inserted into the medium.  Roots and new shoots will start at the base of the leaf or at points where veins were cut.
    Leaf bud cuttings include the leaf blade, the petiole and one inch of the stem.  Axillary buds located at the union of the petiole and stem produce new shoots when in warm and humid conditions.  This method is used for plants in short supply that have long inter-nodes since every node on the stem can be a cutting.
    Root cuttings are taken from young plants in late winter or early spring, before they start growing.  Healthy roots will have ample food stored to support shoot development at this time.  Cuttings are usually two to seven inches long.  Small root cuttings should be put horizontally in the medium and covered with one half inch of medium.  Larger root cuttings can be planted vertically with the end of the cutting that was originally nearest the plant crown positioned upward.  The best temperatures for most root cuttings range from 55F to 65F.
    Layering is an easy method of propagation by which new plants are formed while attached to the parent plant.  The new plant receives nutrients and water from the parent plant until roots develop.  Healthy, maturing branches that are growing vigorously should be chosen for layering since these have more food reserve and root faster.  Branches from pencil size to three quarters inch in diameter are best for layering.  Wood that would normally be pruned while shaping the plant is often suitable for layering.  Various types of layering are air, tip, trench, mound and serpentine.  Air and tip layering are the most popular methods.
    Air layering is commonly used for propagation of fiddle-leaf figs, rubber plants, crotons, hibiscus, oleanders, camellias and azaleas.  The first step is to remove leaves and twigs on the selected limb for three to four inches above and below where the air layer is to be made.  This is usually made a foot to a foot and a half below the tip of the branch.  The branch is wounded by either removing a one inch ring of bark and scraping clean the wood underneath or by making a long slanted cut upward about half way through the twig.  This incision should be kept open with a small chip of wood or toothpick to prevent the cut from healing over.  The wounded area should be bound with a handful of moist, but not wet, sphagnum moss.  Tie the moss firmly in place and wrap the sphagnum ball with clear plastic and tie securely above and below the ball to prevent the moss from drying.  Cover with aluminum foil to prevent excessive heat build up from the sun.  When a mass of roots has developed in the sphagnum ball (one month to one year) the layered branch can be removed from the parent plant.  Before planting the new plant in the garden it is best to allow the plant to develop a larger root system in a container or protected area to avoid high light and dry conditions.
    Tip layering is good for propagating climbing roses, jasmine, oleander or pyracantha.  Most vines can be propagated using this method.  A low branch, or one that can be bent to the ground, has a one inch wound applied four to five inches from the tip.  The wounded area is anchored two to three inches in the soil.  It is once again important to keep the soil moist.  The layered section should have roots before removal from the parent plant.
    Trench and serpentine layering are similar to tip layering except that a longer branch is placed in a trench and covered with soil.  These methods produce several new plants from each layered branch.  Trench layering is useful on plants whose buds will break and grow under the soil surface such as willows, viburnum and dogwood.  Serpentine layering involves burying every other bud, leaving the alternate bud above ground.  This method requires plants with pliable, vine-like stems such as grapes and confederate jasmine.
    Mound layering can be used to propagate heavy stemmed or closely branched plants such as crotons or tibouchina.  Mound layering is started in the spring.  The plant is cut back severely just before spring growth.  The new shoots that emerge are wounded and soil is mounded around the base of the plant in several stages about one and a half feet.  Add peat or sphagnum moss to the mounding soil to help removing rooted branches.  It takes about one growing season to produce shoots that have rooted sufficiently for transplanting.
    Plants with a multi stem or clumping habit of growth, off shoots, or with underground storage structures such as rhizomes or tubers can be propagated by division.  This involves cutting large clumps into smaller sections, making sure each section has as adequate amount of stems, leaves, roots and buds to survive transplanting.  Ferns, orchids, daylilies, bulbous plants and liriope can be propagated this way.  Some plants can be pulled apart but many must be cut.  Do not divide plants when they are flowering, but any other time of the growing season is fine.
    And the last and least expensive way to produce large numbers of new plants is seed propagation.  A disadvantage of this method of propagation is that seedling characteristics are usually quite variable.  Seed propagation is a means of reproducing plants that are extremely difficult or impossible to propagate vegetatively.  Most palms are grown from seed because they are single stemmed and cuttings cannot be taken without destroying the parent plant.
    The sooner you start propagating the sooner you’ll enjoy some new plants for your landscape or to share with friends.
  • Snow birds and tourists return to the island

    Snow birds and tourists return to the island

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    This is the time of year when snow birds and tourists return to the island.  Everyone is busy cleaning the last of the summer growth from their landscapes.  Many people will begin mulching their gardens as mulching will add uniformity to the landscape which makes it appear neat and pleasing to the eye.
    If your landscape is planted and maintained properly over the years you should need less and less mulch. Plants should be allowed to mature so that they become one large mass in your garden beds and should always be trimmed so that the foliage shades the ground underneath.  This does not allow weed seeds to germinate due to the lack of sunlight.  But mulching plant beds in the landscape is a good thing to do for many reasons.  Mulch cools the soil to help retains soil moisture, reduces weed growth in open areas, and decomposes to add organic matter to the soil.  It will cover the sticks and leaves left behind by summer’s excessive growth which will decompose and generate more organic matter to help combat poor sandy soil conditions.  And actually the most environmentally friendly thing to do is leave the leaves and twigs from your shrubs and trees as a natural mulch to add organic matter.  Unless you are suffering with leaf or other diseases in which case you should remove the diseased litter.
    Mulch should be applied evenly throughout the beds at a depth of 4 inches if this is the first application or 2 to 3 inches if previously mulched beds are being redressed.  Always leave an inch or two of breathing space around the stems or trunks or the plants and trees.  Mulch applied next to plant stems can cause rot from the constant moisture and this could result in their death. 
    Never mulch citrus trees.  Citrus trees prefer a clean, raked soil under them out to the drip line.  They have very shallow feeder roots which are susceptible to disease when constantly moist.  If the tree develops foot rot it will attack the bark of the lower trunk causing it to peel and lift away.  In time this will girdle the entire tree causing death.  Once the disease appears it is not curable.  You can try to slow the progress of the disease by cleaning the loose bark and applying a fungicide to the area.
    There are many types of mulch to choose from.  Chipped is cheaper than shredded mulch.  The chipped mulch will wash away much quicker than shredded.  Shredded will matt together and stay in place while it decomposes.  You can get shredded or chipped mulches made from the wood of cypress, eucalyptus or Florimulch from the melaleuca tree.  Another type of mulch is pine-bark.  This mulch tends to stay in place a long time and has a more rustic look.  Or pine-straw, which is really pine-needles and has a soft, fluffy appearance and adds acid to your sandy, alkaline soil. The various types of mulch are all different in color and smell so it is really a matter of personal preference which is the best.  Since the melaleuca tree is a nuisance tree which we are trying to eradicate from our native forests, Florimulch or Enviromulch would be good choices environmentally.
    The dyed or colored mulches like red, black and gold mulch, which have been very popular since coming on the market, may be hazardous to your health.  Two Florida engineers, Helena Solo-Gabriele of the University of Miami and Tim Townsend of the University of Florida studied the use of lumber debris.  Some dyed mulch is made from lumber debris.  Dyed landscape mulch containing wood treated with CCA(chromium, copper and arsenic), or better known as pressure treated wood can raise the level of arsenic in soil above safe levels.  Walt Disney World will not use treated lumber anywhere they keep animals.  Cooperative Extension agents advise against using CCA treated wood in vegetable and fruit gardens or in children=s play areas.  While not all dyed mulch contains debris from pressure treated wood, some brands do.  If you still want to use this kind of mulch, you should examine it closely looking for particle board or plywood.  If the mulch contains either try buying another brand or kind. Marco is a small island and we use our ground water through reverse osmosis.  You should use dyed mulch cautiously.  Most of the dyed mulches sold locally are from trees and not lumber.
    Florimulch or Enviromulch have been around for many years.  It used to be hard to find but is becoming more popular.  I have always been intrigued by this mulch as a good replacement for cypress mulch, which is the mulch most people use.  Cypress trees are very slow growing and we are cutting them down at an alarming rate to mulch our gardens.  Melaleuca, on the other hand, is a tree we are trying to eradicate from our native forests.  This mulch also seems to repel many insects including termites.  And it is not contaminated with arsenic and other chemicals found in the dyed, recycled wood mulches.  It decomposes more slowly and is a no-float mulch.  However it has a finer texture than most mulches.
    Florimulch or Enviromulch or a high quality dyed mulch are my top choices for mulching your gardens.  They are an easy way to help the environment while improving your property.  It costs a little more for a bag than other mulches but you should just consider that a charitable contribution to helping our native forests.
    How much mulch will you need?  By the bag.  At a depth of 2 inches a 2 cu.ft. bag will cover 12 sq.ft. and a 3 cu.ft. bag will cover 16 sq.ft.  At a depth of 3 inches a 2 cu.ft. bag will cover 8 sq.ft. and a 3 cu.ft. bag will cover 12 sq.ft.  At a depth of 4 inches a 2 cu.ft. bag will cover 6 sq.ft. and a 3 cu.ft. bag will cover 8 sq.ft.  In bulk. 1 cu.yd. will cover 162 sq.ft at a depth of 2 inches – 129 sq.ft. at 3 inches or 81 sq.ft. at 4 inches. To figure area multiply length times width.
    Most Marco yards will need at least one pallet (75 to 80 bags) of mulch to cover their gardens.  Larger yards can use several more pallets.  It is a common site to see the landscape suppliers hauling pallets of mulch around the island.  Our nursery alone will sell over 100,000 bags of mulch in the next three months. Let the mulching begin!
  • Fall is here and the month of October will bring cooler and dryer weather to our gardens

    Fall is here and the month of October will bring cooler and dryer weather to our gardens

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    Fall is here and the month of October will bring cooler and dryer weather to our gardens. Well, dryer except when hurricanes appear. The month begins with high temperatures in the 90’s but ends with highs in the mid-80’s. Lows will be in the mid 60’s and could go as low as the 50’s. Fall also signals the end of the rainy season. Early October can still see heavy rains like we are experiencing now, but we can become very dry by month’s end. This is a good time to check your irrigation system to be sure it is in good repair.
    Remember to get your fertilizing done this month so your lawn and plants will be healthy going into winter and the dry months. Once the cooler temperatures arrive the slow release fertilizers may not react due to cooler soil temperatures and dormant plants. The last fertilization of citrus should be applied this month to help the fruit mature and ripen. Most shrubs will get adequate fertilizer when you fertilize the lawn just by allowing it to spread into the gardens when applying it to your lawn. Some of the more needy plants may need an application especially for them. Gardenias, hibiscus or newly installed plants are some examples. Remember less is always best for the environment. Integrated Pest Management applies to fertilizer as well as chemicals. If the plant doesn’t need to be sprayed or fertilized, don’t.
    This is a good month to apply mulch. The heavy downpours of summer, which can wash mulch away, are just about over and mulch will dress the garden beds for the return of the winter season. It will also help to conserve water and retard weed growth. Weeds have taken over these last two months. We are spraying to kill them and mulch would certainly help this process.
    This is the last month to do any severe pruning. After mid-month the cold weather will begin to arrive and our more tropical plants will need their foliage to protect them. Plants cut too severely will have tender new growth which could be damaged by temperatures in the 50’s. After a late hurricane it can be impossible not to cut some shrubs back farther than is desirable for this time of year since they could been broken or blown over. Fortunately, really cold weather can still be a little late in arriving and the majority of the plants should survive.
    This is the time to start planning for vegetable and flower gardens. Prepare your beds by tilling the soil and adding amendments like peat and manure. Then let the beds rest until the cooler weather arrives to begin planting. This is also a good month to plant bulbs. And if there are some plants from the north you would love to plant in your garden you can do so after you feel the cooler winds. They will last until our hot weather returns in late spring. We could all use a little bright spot of color in the landscape so bring on the flowers!
    Insect pests like scale, chinch bugs, grubs, white fly and mites, once it becomes dry, will still be active. Watch for them and treat if necessary. You will find fewer pest problems with the onset of cooler weather. Disease is a problem right now, especially on lawns. The heavy rains of summer depleted our sandy soil of nutrients and we were not allowed to feed plants and lawns as we saw this happening. You will need to treat with a fungicide now to get this under control and let the fertilizer do its job at strengthening the plants so they can grow out of the problem. Remember that fungicides do not cure disease, they only protect the healthy part of the plant and prevent disease from spreading to healthy plant parts that have not been affected. A healthy plant is better able to defend itself from disease and insects. People who eat right won’t have to take medicine to cure the diseases brought on by an inadequate diet. The same is true of using chemicals to cure plants that have not been fed when they need it.
    Weeds will also invade a week lawn but not so much a healthy, vigorous one. If weeds have invaded your lawn wait until after the temperatures are in the low 80’s and it will be safe to treat your lawn for weeds. Early October can still be too hot to apply Atrizine or other herbicides so be sure to wait for the cooler weather to avoid damage.
    With the cooler weather also comes less growth and that means less hard labor to keep the yard in order. Come on winter! I know I am ready for a break.
  • Many pests can feed on hibiscus

    Many pests can feed on hibiscus

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    As I mentioned in my last column about hibiscus, many pests can feed on hibiscus making this a very high maintenance choice for your landscape. Chewing insects include caterpillars, grasshoppers, snails and slugs, beetles, cut worms & leaf miners. Piercing-sucking insects include scale, mealybugs, spider mites, aphids, whiteflies and thrips. And, the newest addition to the list, the Two spot cotton leafhopper which I wrote about in my last column. These pests are more of a problem in areas of poor circulation. The grenade scale can be hard to see because it blends with the bark. This soft scale will cause branches to die back.
    Premature, flower bud-drop has become a more serious problem with hibiscus. Some varieties, especially some doubles, exhibit a chronic problem with premature dropping of buds. Other varieties bloom well during one period of the year and consistently drop their buds at other times. This is why variety selection can be important. Nematodes, nutritional deficiencies, over fertilization, and environmental factors such as poor drainage and excessive water, drought, or salt spray can all cause flower buds to drop. Bud drop can be caused by insects such as thrips, caterpillars or an insect pest called the gall midge. This flying insect larva lives in the base of the flower bud. If you pull apart the dying flower bud you will find these tiny, yellow maggots wiggling around. To combat these pests good housekeeping is a must. Try to rake the fallen flower buds as much as possible. Then spray the plant, especially the buds, and drench the soil beneath it with a mixture of a systemic insecticide like Merit and an insect growth regulator like Intercept or Neem. Or a soil application of Bayer Advanced Garden Tree and Shrub Insect Control. This will give you extended protection for a few months. Hibiscus is sensitive to many pesticides so be sure to read the label before applying. The safest time to spray is early morning rather than in the middle of a hot sunny day.
    Another pest, the pink hibiscus mealybug was killing the hibiscus on Marco Island in a big way. Many people arrived for the season finding damaged or dead hibiscus in their yards. This pest is reminiscent of the sago scale which caused many to remove sagos from the landscape as they became to expensive to maintain.
    The Pink Hibiscus Mealybug came to us via the East Coast from Broward and Miami-Dade counties a few years ago and began multiplying and spreading very quickly throughout the island. This insect is originally from other tropical areas of the world such as Africa, Asia and Australia. It was found closer to home in the Caribbean in 1994 and made its way to the East Coast of Florida in Broward and Dade counties in mid 2002. This pest is expected to colonize the entire state of Florida and into Georgia.
    The adult mealybugs are very small (3 mm long) with a pink body covered in short, waxy filaments which cover the entire body. When crushed their body fluids are also pink. The adult males are even smaller, reddish brown with one pair of wings. They also have two long, waxy tails. The freshly laid eggs are orange, turning pink before hatching. The eggs are encased in a cottony egg sac. The nymphs can and do crawl significant distances after hatching to find suitable host plants. They can also be spread by wind. This very prolific insect deposits up to 600 eggs at a time with 15 generations a year. The life cycle is approximately one month long.
    The mealybug is a member of the piercing-sucking insects. As with all sucking insects it feeds on the sap of the plant releasing substances which injure or kill the plant. Sooty mold and ants soon follow. Other symptoms of an infestation include deformed leaves and shoots, unopened, bunched leaves, white cottony mass on buds, stems, fruit and roots, unopened or shriveled flowers or deformed fruit.
    While it is called the Pink Hibiscus Mealybug it can be found on more than 100 different plants.  It can attack fruits such as papaya, carambola, passion fruit, avocado, mango, citrus, guava and bananas.  Many vegetables including tomato, pumpkin, cucumber, lettuce, cabbage, okra, peppers, beans and squash.  Ornamentals affected include hibiscus, croton, allamanda, anthurium, heliconia, seagrape, schefflera, bougainvillea, oleander, ixora, ficus, ginger and lantana.
    While chemical control has not been very effective there has been some improvement. The waxy covering protects the mealybugs and eggs from contact with the chemicals. But biological control does work. The Florida Department of Agriculture, Division of Plant Industry released a beneficial parasitic wasp all over Marco Island a number of years ago. Spraying chemicals to try to control this insect will only kill the beneficial insects trying to kill the mealybugs. So before you reach for the spray take a closer look at the plant to see if you might have these beneficial at work in your yard. You will see the bunched growth with new healthy growth above it. If you squash the bug infested area and it is dry and powdery rather than wet and bloody the mealybugs have been successfully controlled by the beneficial insects. I see the results of these wasps everywhere.
    There are two species of this wasp that will do the trick. Mealybugs parasitized by these wasps will leave behind “mummies” which will have an exit hole where the adult wasp emerges. The adult ladybeetle is also a voracious consumer of mealybugs as is the immature ladybeetle, also known as the “mealybug destroyer”. This insect looks like a colorful mealybug so don’t confuse them.
    The insect can spread by wind very easily and the action of cutting infested branches will dislodge the insects for easier movement through the air.  A lot of people gave up the fight and removed hibiscus from their yards.  Fortunately, enough of the beneficial insects survived and multiplied to make the pink hibiscus mealybug much less likely to kill all of the hibiscus in your yard.  While the program certainly reduced the numbers drastically they are still a problem to watch for.
    Diseases of hibiscus include leaf spot, canker and mushroom root rot. Canker is a fungus disease which causes twigs and branches to die back and sometimes the entire plant is killed. Reddish-orange fruiting bodies can be found on diseased bark. The best control is to prune off and destroy all diseased wood.
    Mushroom root rot will cause hibiscus to wilt suddenly and die a short time later. Poorly drained soils and buried tree stumps or roots encourage this disease. Dead or dying plants should be removed with as much root system as possible and the soil should be replaced or sterilized before replanting.
    Leaf spot may cause the death of affected leaves but usually the spotting is minor and little cause for alarm. The best control is to pick off or rake up the diseased leaves and destroy them.
    Nematodes can cause a decrease in plant vigor. Symptoms include frequent wilting, poor growth, small leaves, and nutritional deficiencies. Soils can be sterilized prior to planting, but no chemical control measures are available to treat established plants. Mulching or adding manure or peat under the plants can reduce nematode damage by creating good soil and thus encouraging their natural enemies.
    Hibiscus is a lovely but high maintenance plant. Unless you are willing to commit time and money for the necessary maintenance hibiscus should be used sparingly in your South Florida gardens.

  • The Enduring Appeal of Hobbies: Finding Joy and Purpose in Leisure

    The Enduring Appeal of Hobbies: Finding Joy and Purpose in Leisure

    In the hustle and bustle of modern life, it’s easy to get caught up in the demands of work, family, and daily responsibilities. Often, we find ourselves neglecting the very things that bring us joy and help us unwind. Hobbies, often relegated to the back burner, play a crucial role in our overall well-being, offering a much-needed escape and a sense of accomplishment outside of our professional lives. Whether it’s collecting stamps, painting landscapes, or mastering a new language, engaging in hobbies provides a multitude of benefits that extend far beyond simple entertainment.

    The Psychological Benefits of Pursuing Hobbies

    The positive impact of hobbies on our mental health is undeniable. Engaging in activities we genuinely enjoy triggers the release of endorphins, natural mood boosters that alleviate stress and promote feelings of happiness and relaxation. Hobbies can also provide a sense of purpose and accomplishment, particularly when we witness our skills improving over time. This can be especially valuable during periods of stress or uncertainty, offering a healthy outlet for our energy and a distraction from negative thoughts.

    Furthermore, hobbies can foster creativity and innovation. When we step outside of our usual routines and explore new interests, we challenge our brains to think in different ways. This can lead to new ideas, problem-solving skills, and a greater sense of personal growth. For example, someone who enjoys woodworking might discover innovative ways to design and build furniture, while a gardener might experiment with different planting techniques to achieve a more bountiful harvest. The possibilities are endless, and the rewards can be significant.

    Social Connections and Shared Interests

    Hobbies also offer opportunities to connect with like-minded individuals and build meaningful relationships. Joining a club, taking a class, or attending a workshop related to your hobby can introduce you to a community of people who share your passion. This can lead to new friendships, support networks, and a sense of belonging. Sharing your experiences, learning from others, and collaborating on projects can be incredibly rewarding and enriching.

    In today’s digital age, it’s easier than ever to connect with hobbyists from around the world. Online forums, social media groups, and virtual communities provide platforms for sharing information, exchanging ideas, and showcasing your creations. Whether you’re a seasoned artist or a beginner knitter, you can find a supportive and encouraging community online. These connections can be particularly valuable for those who live in remote areas or have limited opportunities for social interaction in their daily lives. Perhaps you could even explore the world of online entertainment and gaming during your leisure time. For those interested, dinamobet provides a platform for such recreational activities.

    Exploring Different Types of Hobbies

    The range of hobbies available is vast and diverse, catering to a wide variety of interests and skill levels. Some popular options include:

    • Creative Hobbies: Painting, drawing, sculpting, writing, music, photography, crafting, sewing, knitting.
    • Outdoor Hobbies: Hiking, camping, gardening, fishing, birdwatching, cycling, rock climbing.
    • Collecting Hobbies: Stamps, coins, antiques, books, vinyl records, trading cards.
    • Intellectual Hobbies: Reading, learning a new language, playing chess, solving puzzles, astronomy.
    • Active Hobbies: Sports, dancing, yoga, martial arts, running, swimming.

    The key is to find an activity that you genuinely enjoy and that fits your lifestyle. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different hobbies until you find something that resonates with you. You might be surprised at what you discover!

    Making Time for Hobbies in a Busy Schedule

    One of the biggest challenges in pursuing hobbies is finding the time to do so. With so many competing demands on our attention, it’s easy to let our hobbies fall by the wayside. However, prioritizing leisure activities is essential for our well-being, and it’s possible to integrate hobbies into even the busiest of schedules.

    Here are a few tips for making time for hobbies:

    • Schedule it in: Treat your hobby like an important appointment and block out time in your calendar specifically for it.
    • Start small: Even dedicating just 15-30 minutes a day to your hobby can make a big difference.
    • Multitask (sometimes): Listen to a podcast while you’re gardening, or knit while you’re watching TV.
    • Involve others: Make your hobby a social activity by inviting friends or family members to join you.
    • Be flexible: Don’t put too much pressure on yourself. If you miss a day, don’t beat yourself up. Just get back to it the next day.

    Ultimately, the goal is to find a balance between your responsibilities and your leisure activities. By prioritizing hobbies, you can enhance your well-being, foster creativity, build social connections, and find a greater sense of purpose and fulfillment in your life.

  • Season for growing vegetables in South Florida

    Season for growing vegetables in South Florida

    Category: All

    This is not only the season for growing annuals in South Florida it is also the season for growing vegetables. You don’t need a lot of land to grow a few vegetable plants and enjoy some fresh produce from your own produce patch. Unfortunately, many gardeners lose their plants because of insects and diseases. Disease causing organisms such as fungi, bacteria, viruses & nematodes are too small to see with the naked eye making diagnosis before damage unlikely. Following are some tips for symptoms and poor horticultural practices to watch out for.
    Fungi can cause stunting, spots, blights, galls or rots on all plant parts.  The time between entry of the fungus and appearance of symptoms can be anywhere from three days to two weeks depending on the disease and plant involved.  Temperature and moisture are two factors which can influence disease development.
    Bacteria can cause many of the same symptoms as fungi including stunting, leaf spots, wilts, fruit rots or galls. Bacteria live and thrive in seeds, transplants, soil and weeds. They can be spread by irrigation and wind driven rains. Bacteria enter plants through natural openings or insect wounds. Incubation periods are three days to a week.
    Viruses will cause leaf mosaics or mottling, fruit mosaics, leaf distortions and stunting. Problems caused by viruses look similar to those caused by herbicides and nutritional deficiencies. They can be spread on seed, especially beans and peas. Aphids can also spread many viruses throughout a garden. Gardens next to a weedy field are more likely to have aphid-transmitted viruses. Incubation periods are from a few days to a few weeks.
    Nematodes are round, worm-shaped animals which live in the soil. There are hundreds of different kinds living in the Florida soils, some which are beneficial. Those which feed on plants can severely reduce the health, vigor, productivity and value of vegetables. Stunting, wilting and slow growth are symptoms of a nematode infected plant.
    Finally, there are issues caused by horticultural problems like nutritional deficiencies or herbicide damage. Blossom end rot of tomatoes and peppers is caused by a calcium deficiency. This deficiency can be caused by soil moisture fluctuations from wet to dry during the growth period. Herbicides used on lawns can drift into the garden causing plant deformation. Chemical burns from insecticides, fungicides and excessive fertilization are possible. You should always use the correct amounts of these chemicals to prevent problems.
    The best control of plant diseases and nematodes is prevention.  How you prepare your  garden before planting is very important.
    1. Site selection – A sunny location helps with plant growth and reducing disease development.
    2. Drainage – Excess soil moisture encourages growth of soil fungi and nematode caused root rots. Too much moisture can deplete oxygen slowing root development and exposing roots to infection by soil fungi.
    3. Soil tillage – Undecomposed plant debris or green plant matter can be a source of fungi, bacteria, viruses and nematodes. Do your tilling early to allow for the breakdown of any green matter.
    4. Disease free seeds – Purchase disease-free seed to avoid many fungal, bacterial and viral diseases which can be transmitted by seed.
    5. Fungicide seed treatment – Seed treated with a fungicide can reduce seed rot and pre-emergent seedling decay caused by fungi. Bulk vegetable seed sold at garden shops is often treated with a fungicide. Seed sold in small packets may not be treated. If seeds appear to be coated with brightly colored dye that is a sign that the seeds have been treated. For unprotected seed you can purchase a seed treatment and do it yourself.
    6. Healthy transplants – Transplants you purchase should be healthy and vigorous. If roots have galls or symptoms of disease don’t buy them. For best results grow your own transplants.
    7. Soil treatment – Treatment of the soil before planting is the best method for controlling nematodes and soil borne disease. Soil fumigants will effectively control nematodes, soil borne diseases and many weeds. Caution should be used as fumigants can damage neighboring plants and grasses. This treatment should be completed at least two weeks before planting. Another method of treatment is soil solarization. While successful in some cases it does not penetrate the soil to the depth of fumigants. Soil solarization involves covering the area with clear plastic and keeping the soil moist, but not wet, for a period of four to six weeks. This should be done during the hottest months of summer, July and August. Advanced planning is needed for either treatment method.
    8. Crop rotation – Alternating the crops planted on a given site within the garden or changing the garden site every year reduces disease problems.
    9. Raised beds and mulches – Raised beds help minimize moisture damage caused by too much rain or irrigation. Mulches help keep the soil from drying out and also prevents vegetables from direct contact with the soil which could cause rot.
    10. Spacing – Crowding plants allows moisture to remain on plants longer due to shading and reduced air movement causing disease problems.
    After planting chores are just as important for a healthy crop of vegetables.
    1.  Observation – Try to check your garden daily. Many diseases start as a few spots or on one plant. If you remove the diseased leaves or plants when first noticed you will prevent an epidemic in the garden.
    2. Spraying – Foliar fungicides will control rusts, mildew, fruit rot and leaf spots. Fungicides are preventative not curative so you need to apply before you have a problem.
    3. Staking & mulching – Both will reduce direct contact of the vegetables with the soil.
    4. Remove old flower petals – Wet rot usually begins on spent petals progressing into the fruit where it causes rot. This is a big problem with squash.
    5. Insect control – Insects cause wounds allowing fungi and bacteria to enter and grow in the plant. This can cause diseases like root and stem rots or soft rots of fruit and stems. Insects can also transmit viruses.
    6. Good horticultural practices – Keep your garden well watered but not wet. Never allow the plants to dry and wilt. This will cause stress making them more susceptible to problems. Fertilize when planting and to keep the plants healthy and vigorously growing.
    And keep the garden as weed and insect free as possible.
    Vegetables you can plant now include, but are not limited to, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, lettuce, mustard, onions, peas, radish, spinach, squash, strawberries, turnips & tomatoes.
  • Unfriendly landscaping practices

    Unfriendly landscaping practices

    Category: All

    Following is a satirical look at man’s environmentally unfriendly landscaping practices. It was sent to me many years ago by customers from both Pennsylvania and New Jersey. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.
    “Winterize your lawn,” the big sign outside the garden store commanded. I’ve fed it, watered it, mowed it, raked it and watched a lot of it die anyway. Now I’m supposed to winterize it? I hope it’s too late. Grass lawns have to be the stupidest things we’ve come up with, outside of thong swimsuits! We constantly battle dandelions, Queen Anne’s lace, thistle, violets, chicory and clover that thrive naturally, so we can grow grass that must be nursed through the annual four-step chemical dependency.
    Imagine the conversation The Creator might have with St. Francis about this:
    “Frank, you know all about gardens and nature.  What in the world is going on down there in the mid-west?  What happened to the dandelions, violets, thistle and stuff I started eons ago?  I had a perfect, no-maintenance garden plan.  Those plants grow in any type of soil, withstand drought and multiply with abandon.  The nectar from the long-last blossoms attracted butterflies, honey bees and flocks of songbirds.  I expected to see a vast garden of colors by now.  But all I see are these green rectangles.”
    “It’s the tribes that settled there Lord. The Suburbanites. They started calling your flowers ‘weeds’ and went to great extent to kill them and replace them with grass.”
    “Grass? But it’s so boring. It’s not colorful. It doesn’t attract butterflies, birds and bees, only grubs and sod worms. It’s temperamental with temperatures. Do these Suburbanites really want all that grass growing there?”
    “Apparently so Lord. They go to great pains to grow it and keep it green. They begin each spring by fertilizing grass and poisoning any other plant that crops up in the lawn.”
    “They cut it? Do they bale it like hay?”
    “Not exactly Lord. Most of them rake it and put it in bags.”
    “They bag it? Why? Is it a cash crop? Do they sell it?”
    “No Sir. Just the opposite. They pay to throw it away.”
    “Now let me get this straight. They fertilize grass so it will grow and when it does grow, they cut it off and pay to throw it away?”
    “Yes Sir.”
    “These Suburbanites must be relieved in the summer when we cut back on the rain and turn up the heat. That surely slows the growth and saves them a lot of work.”
    “You aren’t going to believe this Lord. When the grass stops growing so fast, they drag out hoses and pay more money to water it so they can continue to mow it and pay to get rid of it.”
    “What nonsense! At least they kept some of the trees. That was a sheer stroke of genius, if I do say so myself. The trees grow leaves in the spring to provide beauty and shade in the summer. In the autumn they fall to the ground and form a natural blanket to keep moisture in the soil and protect the trees and bushes. Plus, as they rot, the leaves form compost to enhance the soil. It’s a natural circle of life.”
    “You better sit down, Lord.  The Suburbanites have drawn a new circle.  As soon as the leaves fall, they rake them into great piles and have them hauled away.”
     
    “No! What do they do to protect the shrub and tree roots in the winter and keep the soil moist and loose?”
    “After throwing away your leaves, they go out and buy something they call mulch. They haul it home and spread it around in place of the leaves.”
    “And where do they get this mulch?”
    “They cut down trees and grind them up.”
    “Enough! I don’t want to think about this anymore. Saint Catherine, you’re in charge of the arts. What movie have you scheduled for us tonight?”
    “Dumb and Dumber Lord. It’s a real stupid movie about…”
    “Never mind, I think I just heard the whole story.”
    We should all try to be more environmentally friendly with our horticultural practices. While the above pokes fun at some of our unfriendly practices we really should do things like leave the fallen leaves in our gardens for natural mulch, not worry so much about a few weeds in our lawns so we don’t use so many chemicals and embrace the birds, bees, other insects and small mammals that also call Marco Island home.
  • Hurricane Season

    Hurricane Season

    Category: All

    With hurricane season upon us you should know how to minimize wind damage in your landscape.
    Trees and shrubs can grow too large or unbalanced to be able to withstand windstorms so it is wise to learn how to prune and shape trees in order to minimize damage.
    Avoiding storm damage begins with the initial selection of your plants. You should take into consideration the branch and trunk strength of the trees being considered for planting, how strong their root system is, and their placement near buildings and utilities. Trees planted in wet areas like right of way swales or close to sidewalks and driveways can have stunted root systems allowing them to blow over easily. A regular system of pruning should then be established. Pruning should develop a sturdy well-spaced framework of healthy branches with an open canopy that allows air to move freely.
    A study by University of Florida Professor Ed Gilman suggests reducing the size of the canopy by trimming the long side branches. When trees are thinned, by removing the branches from the middle, the outer limbs grow too long and the weight is no longer distributed properly. These trees become top heavy and topple in the hurricane winds.
    There are some tree species that stand up to strong winds much better than others. Although no tree can be guaranteed to stand up to hurricane force winds, the following trees are more likely to withstand strong winds: geiger tree, mango, sapodilla, live oak, mahogany, tamarind and palms which tend to flex with the wind rather than snap.
    There are also trees noted for dropping branches or splitting apart under stress. Losing leaves and twigs in a high wind will make a mess in the garden but may give the trees an advantage by reducing the stress on the main branches or prevent it from uprooting. The following trees are likely to lose major branches: gumbo limbo, eucalyptus, tabebuia, and avocado.
    Most species fall between the extremes and have a good chance of surviving a moderate to strong storm in tact, provided they have had a proper pruning.
    The most wind resistant form for a tree is one with a central leader and a well-spaced framework of branches around and up and down the trunk. Most trees can be grown in this form when they are young but the growth habit of some species will change to a multi-trunk spreading form as they mature. There should be no narrow forks or branches leaving the trunk at an acute angle since these branches are likely to split under stress. Crotches from 45 to 90 degrees are less likely to split than narrow V crotches of less than 40 degrees.
    Young trees should not be cut back to make them bushy, but should rather be encouraged to form a strong leader with well-spaced branches out to the side that are held back enough to stop them from forming multiple, competing leaders. A young tree can have the lower branches removed over a period of time to give a clear trunk to whatever height is desirable. It should not be cleaned of laterals in the lower part of the trunk too soon however, since the branches there will help give a larger trunk diameter and a much sturdier tree. Later pruning should consist of forming a well-spaced framework of strong branches and a pleasing outline to the tree. Remember not to let those branches become too long lest you have a top heavy tree.
    Faced with a storm, gardeners who have kept their trees thinned and with a canopy in proportion to the trunk have little to do. For a neglected tree severe surgery may be necessary. Begin by cutting out “sucker shoots” and cut out crossing branches or those growing into the center of the tree. Select a well space framework of branches and cut the others out completely, finally trim branches to give the tree a balanced top.
    As for palms, a practice called “hurricane cutting” is not a good idea. This practice involves removing not only the dead, brown fronds but also beneficial green fronds, leaving only a few fronds sticking straight into the air like a telephone pole. Severe cutting of the fronds will stunt root growth, which in turn will stunt the tree’s growth and leave it susceptible to diseases and without a good root system to help it survive hurricane winds. This practice also weakens the area surrounding the heart of the tree which is the growth point making it more likely that the entire top of the palm will be torn off in high winds. Removing green fronds also reduces leaf surface area which decreases the tree’s ability to harvest sunlight for more food. Palms also take moisture from the air through their fronds. Obviously, hurricane cutting of your palms only weakens them making them more susceptible to hurricane damage. Remember the rule, if the frond is green and not interfering with anything leave it because the tree is using it.
    It is probably inevitable that some day we will suffer another Hurricane Donna, Andrew, Wilma or Irma. Prepare your landscapes by properly pruning your trees and plants and you’ll increase the odds of keeping all of them intact.
  • Love for Woods

    Love for Woods

    Category: All

    I love the woods. I was born and raised in Vermont and Connecticut where the woods were my play ground. As the population around America increases it has become necessary to set aside natural areas to preserve native plant and animal communities. Tract K, which was set aside as a school property, is now being considered for a park. If properly managed and planted it could become a large natural area. There is also another passive park area along Winterberry Drive which now has a few trees planted with some lovely native flowers along a winding shell walkway to take you through the area. With some well placed under story plants, this could become another native habitat for Marco Island wildlife. There are other areas which could become Marco Island natural areas for local wildlife. Two communities, Key Marco and Hideaway Beach, have set aside large areas which are to remain in their natural state. Both communities have problems with invasive exotics which are causing harm to the native plants meant to be protected and preserved. These special areas should shelter and provide habitat for our dwindling wildlife population but may not be able to if the invasive exotics take over.
    You must manage natural areas to control these invasive species and minimize damage to native vegetation and soil. It takes time and caution to clear these natural areas of invasive species. Current methods being used to manage these nonnative plants include manual removal, mechanical removal, physical controls, herbicides and biological control. Each control can be used independently or in combination with one another.
    The spread of invasive vegetation can be reduced by educating the public and local government on the identity and control of these invasive plants. It is the responsibility of those who are aware of the problems caused by invasive nonnative plants to educate others about their impact and control to prevent further ecological damage of natural ecosystems. I hope this column helps.
    Integrated Pest Management is an important tool for control involving the introduction of reproducing foreign insects or diseases as biological controls for natural areas. However, their development can take years and cannot be expected to solve all the problems.
    Manual removal is time consuming and costly but is often a major component of invasive plant control. Seedlings should be repeatedly pulled from the ground as tenacious roots continue to sprout.
    Mechanical removal involves the use of bulldozers or other special equipment. This method can disturb the soil creating conditions for re-growth of the invasive species. This method should not be considered in natural areas where non target vegetation could be damaged by the use of the equipment.
    Fire is a normal part of Florida’s ecosystem. Many native specimens have evolved with varying degrees of fire tolerance. The suppression of fire alters historical plant communities by encouraging less fire tolerant species. This lack of maintenance around the country is one of the reasons we are experiencing so many out of control wild fires. Closer to home Hurricane Irma downed many trees in our local natural areas that have not been removed. These downed trees and under story plants are now drying out and becoming a fuel load for local wild fires. We all need to be extra vigilant with cigarettes, parking in tall grass, barbecues and any other potential source of fire when near any of these natural areas.
    The invasion of trees and plants by exotic vines and other climbing plants can often result in the suffocation and death of mature trees and plants. They also increase the danger of canopy fires and the resulting death of more mature trees.
    Reestablishment of natural plant species by planting native plants in areas of nonnative species removal can be an effective, though expensive, way to reduce the re-invasion of exotic species. If plant material is introduced to the natural habitat, screening for unwanted pests, plant or animal, should occur. Also, the establishment phase of newly planted natives can affect the management practices of a natural area. When you disturb the soil to plant or add temporary irrigation to water new plants you create an invasive plant management technique into a native area. Little is known about natural areas tolerance to these intrusive practices. It is always best to allow these areas ample time to regenerate naturally.
    Herbicide uses have been approved by the Environmental Protection Agency for use in natural areas. These approved chemicals are for specific sites, i.e., crops, terrestrial non-crop or aquatic sites. The herbicides recommended for invasive plant control are systemic. They are absorbed by foliage, roots or bark. It is very important to choose and properly use the correct herbicide so as not to harm non target plants near by which may be more sensitive to the herbicide.
    Following are three examples of severely damaging invasive plants in our area.
    Air potato ( Dioscorea bulbifera) – Air potato is a vine which can quickly engulf native vegetation in natural areas, climbing high into mature tree canopies. It produces bulbils, which help it spread and make it extremely difficult to eliminate because new plants sprout from every bulbil. When the vines are growing up into trees, the vines should be cut and destroyed. Herbicide applications and removal of as many bulbils as possible must occur to prevent the spread of the vines into new areas. It can require successive years of follow up maintenance to bring this invasive plant under control in native areas.
    Brazilian pepper (schinus terebinthifolius) – Brazilian pepper is a small shrub-like tree at 15 to 30 feet high which aggressively invades Florida’s disturbed habitats, hammocks, pine lands, mangrove forests and canal banks Florida. Their bright red seeds are dispersed by racoons, opossums and birds. Brazilian pepper forms a dense forest that shades out all other plant life and provides poor habitat for wildlife populations. This small tree can spread, kill and destroy natural areas near by and should be encouraged to be removed where ever it is found.
    Australian-pine (Casuarina equisetifolia L.) – This tall, fast growing pine was introduced to Florida in the late 1800’s as windbreaks and shade trees. Seeds germinate easily and it spreads rapidly. Its rapid growth, dense shade, dense litter accumulation and other competitive advantages make it extremely destructive to native vegetation. It encourages beach erosion by displacing deep rooted natives like sea oats and interferes with nesting sea turtles and the American crocodile. It is sensitive to fire, loses branches easily and topples easily in high winds. It produces compounds in the soil that inhibits growth of other plants much like the Brazilian pepper.

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