The Wicked Gardener

Proper Pruning Techniques

Eileen — Thu, 14 Sep 2023 15:57:58 +0000

Proper Pruning Techniques

Choose the right time to prune. The best time to prune hedges and shrubs depends on the type of plant. For example, spring-flowering shrubs should be pruned after they bloom, while summer-flowering shrubs should be pruned in spring or winter. Evergreen shrubs can be pruned at any time of year, but it is best to do so in the early spring or fall.

Use the right tools. You will need sharp, clean pruning shears or a hedge trimmer for most pruning jobs. For larger shrubs, you may also need a saw.

Make your cuts correctly. When pruning a branch, cut it just above a bud that is facing in the direction you want the new growth to go. This will encourage the branch to grow in that direction. Make your cuts at a 45-degree angle, with the cut facing away from the bud.

Remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches. This will help to keep the plant healthy and prevent the spread of disease.

Thin out the shrub. This means removing some of the older, less vigorous branches to make room for new growth. Thinning will also help to improve the air circulation and sunlight penetration to the inside of the shrub.

Shape the shrub. If you want to give your shrub a specific shape, you can do so by pruning it regularly. Be sure to start with a light trim and gradually work your way to the desired shape.

The post Proper Pruning Techniques appeared first on The Wicked Gardener.

Palm Trees

Eileen — Thu, 14 Sep 2023 15:41:48 +0000

Palm Trees

Florida Palm Trees: Care and Maintenance

Florida is home to many different types of palm trees, which are a popular choice for landscaping because of their tropical beauty and low-maintenance requirements. However, even the hardiest palm trees need some basic care to thrive.

Here are some tips for caring for Florida palm trees:

Watering: Young palm trees need to be watered more frequently than mature trees. A good rule of thumb is to water young trees twice a week, and mature trees once a week. Be sure to water deeply, so that the water reaches the roots.

Fertilizing: Palm trees need to be fertilized every few months during the growing season (March-October). Use a fertilizer specifically formulated for palm trees.

Pruning: Palm trees should be pruned regularly to remove dead, dying, or diseased fronds. Pruning can also help to improve the tree’s appearance and prevent pests and diseases. Protecting from pests and diseases: Palm trees are susceptible to a number of pests and diseases.

To protect your trees, you can apply a preventive insecticide and fungicide.

Proper planting: When planting a palm tree, it is important to choose the right location. Palm trees need full sun and well-drained soil.

The post Palm Trees appeared first on The Wicked Gardener.

Grass

Eileen — Thu, 14 Sep 2023 14:49:25 +0000

Grass

The best type of grass for your lawn will depend on your individual needs and preferences. If you are looking for a grass that is low-maintenance and can withstand heat and drought, then St. Augustine grass is a good choice. If you are looking for a grass that is drought tolerant and can grow in sandy soil, then Bahia grass is a good choice. And if you are looking for a grass that is durable and can withstand wear and tear, then Bermuda grass is a good choice.

When choosing a type of grass for your lawn, it is also important to consider the amount of sunlight your yard gets. St. Augustine grass and Bahia grass need full sun, while Bermuda grass can tolerate some shade.

No matter what type of grass you choose, it is important to care for it properly. This includes watering your lawn regularly, mowing it at the correct height, and fertilizing it as needed. By following these tips, you can keep your lawn looking its best all year long.

The post Grass appeared first on The Wicked Gardener.

Bulbs

Eileen — Sat, 26 Feb 2022 20:41:18 +0000

Daffodils and tulips are my favorite flowers because it was a sure sign of spring in Connecticut when they began popping up in the fields and yards. While we cannot grow daffodils or tulips this far south we do have some bulbous plants that are beautiful.

Amaryllis

These bulbs show pretty green leaf-like foliage in the garden most of the year. One of the most beautiful bulbs we can grow here in South Florida is the amaryllis. They come in varying shades of pinks and reds. Bulbous plants will thrive and produce these beautiful flowers year after year with proper care. These plants have thickened underground storage organs which enable them to survive unfavorable environmental conditions. These underground organs are also the propagative units of the plants. Not all bulbous plants are true bulbs. Other underground storage organs include corms, tubers, tuberous roots and rhizomes.

Bulb Scales

A true bulb is a compressed stem or basal plate bearing a flower bud enclosed by thick, fleshy scales called bulb scales. Some true bulbs such as narcissus, amaryllis & tulip are protected from drying and mechanical injury by dry and membranous outer scales called a tunic. Other true bulbs such as lilies are called non-tunicate or scaly because their outer scales are succulent and separate, giving the bulb a scaly appearance.

Gladiolus

Corms

The Corm

A corm is a solid mass of stem tissue with a terminal bud on top. Axillary or lateral buds are also produced at nodes on the corm. The solid stem structure of the corm is protected against injury and water loss by dry leaf bases that are similar to the tunic that encloses true bulbs. Gladiolus is a corm.

Caladium

A tuber is a thickened underground stem with many buds on its surface. Tubers are covered with a tough skin rather than a tunic or scales like true bulbs and corms. An example of a tuber is a caladium.

Dahlia

Tuberous roots, such as dahlia, are true roots and lack nodes and inter-nodes. Buds are present only at the crown or stem end of the root.

Rhizomes are thickened horizontal stems growing along or below the surface of the ground. Underground rhizomes of canna and calla produce roots on their lower surface and send shoots above ground.

“Florida’s climate is favorable for growing many tropical and subtropical bulbous plants.”

Florida's Climate

Florida’s climate is favorable for growing many tropical and subtropical bulbous plants. Unfortunately, many of the common bulbs of northern states such as tulips, hyacinths and daffodil do not grow well in Florida. These bulbs flower poorly or not at all. With special treatment many of these northern bulbs will grow and bloom the first year. Recovery and planting the following year is not recommended since they rarely flower again.

Well-drained Soil

Most bulbs thrive in a sunny location. Some, such as caladiums, do best in partial shade. Heavy shade should be avoided as it will cause thin spindly growth and poor foliage color and flowering. Bed preparation is important for successful bulbs. A well-drained soil is important. You should till and amend the soil with three to four inches of organic matter and fertilizer.

Dig holes to the recommended depth for the various bulbs and plant with points facing up. Firm the soil around and over the bulbs and water.

Water is Crucial

Mulch the beds to control weeds. Weeds that do grow through the mulch should be pulled before they become firmly established in the bed.

Fertilize once or twice during the growing season with a special bulb fertilizer. Bulbs such as tulips which are discarded after flowering do not need fertilizing since they have enough stored food to last through the blooming period.

Water is crucial when growing bulbs and it is important that they not dry out during growth and flowering.

Keep the soil moderately moist at all times except when drying off at the end of a growing period.

Good Cultural Practice

A good cultural practice is to remove dead blooms before seeds are produced. Flowering in the following season will be reduced if seeds are allowed to set. Removing seeds also adds to the aesthetic value of the plants and may prevent disease problems.

Many bulbous plants grow best if left in the ground year after year while others may become crowded and bloom poorly. Digging and replanting encourages more uniform and larger flowers.

True bulbs like amaryllis and hyacinth, develop miniature bulbs, known as bulblets, which grow into offsets. Offsets can be separated from the mother bulb and replanted into the beds. Depending on the kind of bulb, it could take several years before they reach flowering size.

Corms & Cormels

Corms, such as gladiolus, produce new corms on top of the old corms, which wither. Miniature corms called cormels are produced between the old and new corms. These can be separated from the mother corms and stored along with the new corms over winter for planting in the spring. Cormels also require two to three years to reach flowering size.

Tubers (caladiums), tuberous roots (dahlia) and rhizomes (canna, day lily) are propagated by cutting them into sections, each containing at least one bud. Tuberous roots that are broken off without a bud are worthless.

Bulbous plants can be moved anytime except when they are in bloom.

Some examples of bulbs, corms, tubers, tuberous roots and rhizomes and their flowering seasons:

Bulbs
Amaryllis – Spring
Amazon lily – Winter
Aztec lily – Spring & Summer
Blood lily – Summer
Crinum – Spring & Summer
Society garlic – Spring, Summer & Fall
Spider lily – Spring & Summer

Corms
Gladiolus – Three months after planting
Tritonia – Spring & Summer
Watsonia – Three months after planting

Tuber
Caladium – Summer to Fall
Glorioso lily – March to Summer
Elephant ears – Spring

Tuberous Root
Dahlia – Early Summer

Rhizomes
African lily – Summer & Early Fall
Butterfly lily – Spring
Cana – Spring to first frost
Day lily – Spring & Summer

The post Bulbs appeared first on The Wicked Gardener.

Fungus

Eileen — Sat, 26 Feb 2022 20:40:00 +0000

Wet weather during the hot summer or cooler winter months can cause disease problems for our lawns and shrubs. Fungus spreads rapidly when you have free water on leaf surfaces for too many hours. The evening and early night showers of summer wet plants and lawns going into the night and the cooler winter weather lessens evaporation both of which allow plants and soil to remain wet longer. That means you should water less during the cooler winter months than you do during the hot spring and summer months, once a week as opposed to two or three times a week. I often say winter is a great time of year to save on those water budgets.

Brown Patch

Brown patch is a common disease of turf grass affecting both St. Augustine and Bahia. In Southern Florida it is mainly a fall and winter disease but can also occur in the summer months. Grass blades may be killed in a few hours by this fungus. It infects the blade nearest the soil and disrupts transport of water and nutrients to the upper portions of the blade which then die rapidly. The first symptom of the disease is yellowing or chlorosis of the blades. The affected blades dry and turn various shades of reddish brown to straw brown. The fungus is most active at 73 degrees F to 90 degrees F. Excessive nitrogen fertilizer can fuel this fungus. A well balanced fertilizer applied at moderate rates is important in reducing severity of this disease.

Take-all-Patch

Take-all-Patch is a serious disease fueled by the summer heat. It affects areas damaged by lack of water, insect or disease problems earlier in the year. The summer rains fuel this fungus and it begins to spread. Special fungicides are required to bring this under control and sometimes the best treatment is to replace the area with new sod. I have devoted columns on this hard to control disease.

Take-all-Patch

Grey Leaf Spot

Grey Leaf Spot & Rust

Two other leaf diseases of turf grass to watch out for are grey leaf spot and rust. Both like warm, wet weather and will cause grass blades to die leaving brown blades throughout an otherwise green lawn. Unlike brown patch disease nitrogen fertilizer can help the lawn recover from these leaf diseases by encouraging new blade growth.

Ornamental Diseases

Ornamental diseases caused by fungi include the following. Root rots which are most often caused by excessive soil moisture. The plants will be wilting, yellowing and declining. Stem rots affect the stem near the soil line. The stem will darken, soften and rot. There may be a smell. Leaf spots can be light to dark, small or large, round or with irregular margins. Most leaf spots do not kill the plant but can defoliate them. Rust spores of fungi are normally found on the undersides of the leaves. Wilts affect plants in the water conducting tissues so the plant cannot receive water and will die. This disease may progress slowly or quickly. Powdery mildew grows on the upper and lower sides of leaves. It is white and then turns grey. It is not always serious and is common in low light areas. A powdery mildew was responsible for our loss of impatiens.

Disease Control

For disease control, choose healthy plants and treated seeds for planting. Remove and destroy all dead or diseased plants and plant parts from the garden. After pruning clean your equipment with a weak bleach solution to avoid spreading disease from plant to plant with your tools. Allow space between plants. Thinning thick foliage allows more air movement and quicker drying.

“Applying a fungicide will help protect the surrounding healthy grass from infection.”

Fungicides

Spraying and dusting with fungicides should be done before disease begins or spreads too far. Fungicides protect healthy tissue from disease rather than curing infected tissues. Soil borne diseases can be controlled by treatment of the soil with sunlight or fumigants before planting. Two good fungicides for ornamentals are copper or a systemic fungicide. Copper should be used sparingly as it can accumulate and become toxic if used too frequently.

The best horticultural method for preventing disease is to water in the early morning rather than in the evening. This allows the plants to dry with the sun before the water can begin activating the fungal organisms and spreading the disease. This process begins to happen after four or five hours of continuous moisture on leaf surfaces. Because diseases turn plant leaves and grass blades brown many people mistakenly believe they need to water more to turn the plants or lawn green again. This action will only exacerbate the disease problem as you add more water to fuel the fungus. If you suspect disease allow the area to dry out, treat with a fungicide and when you resume watering dont over do it.

The post Fungus appeared first on The Wicked Gardener.

Grass Mowing

Eileen — Sun, 16 Jan 2022 22:39:00 +0000

Proper mowing of your lawn can kill weeds and chinch bugs, cure disease, save water and provide fertilizer. However, improper mowing can be harmful. Mowing is stressful to grass because it is meant to grow tall, mature and make seeds. Man decided that lawns look better when freshly mowed and most people feel the shorter the better. But a close cut doesn’t do much for your lawn or your water bill.

Roots & Leaves

Grasses are basal-growing plants. The growing point is at the crown (the area between the root and the blade) of the plant near the soil line. The tips are the oldest part of the blade which means you can cut off their tops without killing them. When you cut the tips, new growth pushes up from the crown. When the mower cuts off those grass tips, it causes severe shock to the grass plant. Grass lives primarily on food manufactured in its blades not on what is drawn up through the roots. Cutting the blades reduces the ability of the plant to manufacture food. That food is used for both top and root growth so the shorter you cut the grass the less root growth you will have. A plant with deep roots will be better able to withstand drought, fight off disease and insects and store food manufactured in the leaves. So the longer the root the healthier the grass.

Every time the grass is cut the root system is weakened to some degree. When cut too severely, the roots stop growing. Mowing tears the plant and creates ports of entry for disease. Sharp mower blades give a cleaner cut which heals faster. Another problem with close cutting is that it allows sunlight to dry the soil and the additional light will encourage weed seeds to germinate.

A Thicker Lawn

Mowing has actually tamed the wild grasses of our past. Mowing grass before it sets seeds prevents sexual reproduction and many grasses respond by reproducing asexually by spreading stolons and rhizomes creating a thicker lawn. How high you mow will also influence the spread of the grass. A higher cut makes healthier grass with deeper roots, more mass for photosynthesis and more stolons and rhizomes for a thicker sod which means less weed invasion.

Grass Sod

Mowers

Seasonal Mowing

You should also take into account that grass grows at different rates throughout the seasons. The summer months require more frequent mowing than our cold winter and dry spring months when you should not cut as often. Our coming cold weather will slow the growth and bi-weekly mowing will be all that is needed. Some lawns could go three weeks or a month without mowing. If the grass doesn’t need to be mowed save it from the extra stress and don’t mow it. As we move into the dry spring months grasses will be stressed by heat and drought so care must be taken to properly irrigate to help ease the stress of mowing.

Watering

In past years drought required the city to reduce our allowed watering to once a week. The fact is our lawns could easily survive on this schedule and be healthier for it. We should use horticultural practices every day which produce deep-rooted lawns that don’t require excessive water to keep them green. All lawns, properly cared for, could be conditioned to require no more than once a week watering all year. The exception would be during the cold winter months when once every two or three weeks will do.

I remember the year the Phase 3 water restriction took affect on Marco Island and everybody thought their lawn would surely die if watered only once a week. People were surprised as their lawns remained green and lush. It was because it was during the winter months with the cooler temperatures and lower evaporation rates. That benefit ends as the temperatures begin to climb in March, April and May.

Spring is when the benefit of a deep root system and tall grass blades come in to play to allow for less watering.

Sprinkler Systems

Check your irrigation system to be sure of proper coverage. It may seem that the sprinklers are reaching all areas but if you have dry spots on the edge of your sprinkler pattern you may not be getting adequate water at the edges of the sprinkler pattern. Place some empty tuna cans at the center of the green areas and also in the dry areas and measure the water levels after the zone has run. You’ll most likely find you’re not getting enough in the dry areas. This could be dirt in the sprinkler tip, heads not properly spaced or water pressure problems when the sprinklers are running in the wee hours of the morning. When not mowing every week be sure the sprinkler heads stay well cleared of taller grass blades to allow for proper coverage.

“Clippings are a very good thing and should be left to break down and feed your lawn.”

Clippings

It was once believed that grass clippings were the cause of thatch accumulation in the lawn. It is now known that they do not accumulate unless the clippings are exceptionally long. They break down soon after they hit the ground. In the process they return a lot of nitrogen to the soil. Clippings are a very good thing and should be left to break down and feed your lawn. Just be sure to keep them out of the waterways where nitrogen is not so welcome.

A lush, green lawn is a beautiful thing. It doesn’t need excessive fertilizer, chemicals and water use to look that way if you just raise the mower deck as high as it will go. A deeper lawn is a healthy lawn!

The post Grass Mowing appeared first on The Wicked Gardener.

Herbicides

Eileen — Sun, 16 Jan 2022 22:38:19 +0000

Are the weeds invading your turf? The cooler weather of the winter months will mean that it will be safe to have your lawn treated with a herbicide to try and bring them under control. Treating your lawn for weeds with temperatures in the 90’s can stress and damage your turf. There are herbicides labeled for use in hot temperatures but my observations show severe stress to the grass with these products. The result can be a thicker bed of weeds as the grass is unable to compete with the weeds in the damaged state in which it was left. It is best to wait until it is in the mid to low 80’s before having your lawn treated for weeds. So always be patient and wait for those lower temperatures.

Weeds

Weeds can get a foothold in your lawn in areas where the grass is thin or weak. Weeds do not overtake healthy turf. St. Augustine is a very aggressive and competitive grass allowing it to compete with weeds. If allowed to, St. Augustine grass could overtake and kill most shrubs in your yard.

Primary Causes

Most weeds appear because of improper cultural practices such as mowing too closely or infrequently, improper fertilization or irrigation. These are the primary causes for thin or weak turf. In addition, inadequate control of insects, diseases, and nematodes will also damage the turf and allow weeds to invade.

Atrizine

Trimic

Weed Control

Herbicides may temporarily remove the weeds, however, unless the basic cause of the weakened turf is corrected, weeds will continue to be a major problem. Weed control will only be successful if the turf is returned to a good healthy growing condition. The thick blanket of grass will not allow weeds to germinate at the soil line.

Pre-emergence Herbicides

Pre-emergence herbicides provide several weeks of residual control in the soil and will kill the seedling weeds as they emerge. Pre-emergence herbicides should be applied before germination of the weed seeds. The timing of applications of this type of herbicide must coincide with the various germination times of weed species. If applied too late in the growing season the weeds will have germinated and escaped control. Applying the pre-emergence herbicide too early may also result in undesirable control since the control is time limited. Adequate soil moisture is important before and after application so timing for rainfall or irrigation is necessary. Most pre-emergence herbicides will control germinating weed seeds over a six or twelve-week period. The best time for application in South Florida is the first of February.

Post-emergence Herbicides

Once weeds have germinated and are actively growing they must be controlled with post-emergence herbicides. Weeds are easier to control when in the seedling stage or large and actively growing. Applications made to weeds under stress may reduce the effectiveness. It sounds strange but you want your weeds to be healthy and vigorously growing when you kill them. Post-emergence herbicides are absorbed through the foliage, roots or both and then trans-located throughout the plant. If conditions are dry, irrigate prior to application to ensure active growth and translocation. Fertilization prior to application is also a good idea. Do not water or mow for several days following herbicide application to give the chemicals time to absorb into the weeds.

“Do not apply herbicide during extreme hot or cold temperatures to avoid damage to the grass.”

Atrizine

Atrizine can be used in St Augustine grass to control most broadleaf and annual grass weeds as a pre-emergent if applied before the weed seeds germinate or a post emergent after germination. Apply every six months (spring and fall) for continued effective pre-emergence weed control. Crabgrass control will require a special herbicide. They have taken the best product off the market but there are some replacements appearing. These are not as effective and so patience and a healthy turf will be necessary when trying to kill crab grass. Do not over water as this can encourage crab grass. Do not apply herbicide during extreme hot or cold temperatures to avoid damage to the grass.

Trimic

Trimic can be used in bahia grass to control most broadleaf weeds. Use only herbicides labeled for your type of grass as severe injury or death will usually result if the wrong type of herbicide is applied. Herbicides in general should not be applied to freshly mowed turf or to turf under stress.

While herbicides can help with the weed control in your lawn the best way to a weed free lawn is to practice good horticultural practices like proper watering, mowing, insect and disease control to prevent weak areas which will be susceptible to weed invasion. Using biological organic amendments is a great way to kick start the soil ecosystem in your yard to help make your lawn lush and green and discourage weed invasion in the first place.

The post Herbicides appeared first on The Wicked Gardener.

Evapotranspiration

Eileen — Wed, 12 Jan 2022 00:16:00 +0000

‪If you are one of the people who say it’s summer so I can turn off my sprinklers, this column’s for you. In spite of the fact that we are still in the rainy season, signs of water stress can appear quickly on lawns this time of year. This situation is occurring on Marco this week and last week as well. While this has been a fairly wet summer we have also had dry periods between rain storms. Next week is calling for almost no rain at all. Water is needed in large quantities by a lawn. And it is required more frequently in the hot spring and summer than during the winter. A good example of this process is how quickly the rain waters recede from our area roads after summer rain storms (as long as it isn’t high tide). If you turn your sprinklers off after one of these rain storms be sure to turn them back on if there are no more soaking rains within four or five days. This is especially important if you have new sod or shrubs in areas. These plants have very shallow roots and our soil is sandy.‬

Transpiration

‏‪Water comprises 80 to 90 percent of the fresh weight of grass and it also plays a fundamental role in the plant metabolism. Only one percent of water absorbed by plants is utilized for metabolic activity. The majority of water absorbed is used for transpiration. This is a plant process in which water is absorbed by the roots, passed through the vascular system, and exited from the plant via the stomata into the atmosphere. Transpiration helps maintain plant temperatures by cooling through the latent heat of vaporization. Similar to our own perspiration. The water absorbed by the plants in the transpiration process also brings nutrients from the soil into the plant. This is one of the reasons the plants look so much healthier after a good rain.‬

Evapotranspiration

The amount of water transferred into the atmosphere by evapotranspiration from turf surfaces is governed by a number of environmental factors. Sunlight, relative humidity, temperature, wind and available soil moisture are all controlling elements. Minimal ET rates occur when there are dark, cloudy days with high relative humidity, low temperatures and no wind. Maximum ET rates occur on bright sunny days with low humidity, high temperatures and high winds.‬

Transpiration

Evapotranspiration

June Through September

‏‪According to a table computed by the United States Department of Agricultural Soil Conservation Service June through September have the highest evapotranspiration rates. These are months which also have the highest irrigation requirements if we don’t have adequate rains. Don’t be misled by light summer rain showers. Often these rains only wet the soil surface and evaporate rapidly. A general rule used in Florida is to apply 3/4 to 1 inch of water one to two times a week in Summer.

“Water on Wilt” Method

It is true that too much water can cause damage just like too little water. Most people do not pay close enough attention to their lawns to allow for the “Water on Wilt” method. The result is a lawn which goes into water stress when too little water is applied during periods when we don’t have adequate rainfall. This results in populations of chinch bugs in the dry areas and the need to apply more insecticides to prevent damage. Disease can also become a problem in these stressed areas and once again chemicals will be needed to correct the problem. Good horticultural practices always help diminish the need for more chemicals in our environment.‬

Rain Sensors

The best remedy is to have a rain-stat or sensor installed. It will pay for itself the first summer you install it. Installed on the edge of the house, above the drip line, it is a device that is wired to the sprinkler timer and will automatically turn the system off when there has been adequate rainfall. As the wick dries (as the soil would dry) it allows the system to run again. These devices are required by law on all houses. Every home should have one. Call your sprinkler repair company and have a rain sensor installed today and then let it do its job. ‬

“While the initial investment may be more than the conventional system it will surely pay for itself in the long run.‬”

Smart Irrigation Systems

There are also many new smart irrigation systems on the market. These systems sense the need for water in various ways and only allow the system to run if the need is there. While the initial investment may be more than the conventional system it will surely pay for itself in the long run.‬

‏‪What ever method you choose just be sure that you do not allow the lawn to wilt to the point of damage or over water. As mentioned above, both will cause problems that will in turn require the need for more chemical use and that is always a bad thing for the environment‬.

The post Evapotranspiration appeared first on The Wicked Gardener.

Fertilizers Facts

Eileen — Wed, 12 Jan 2022 00:15:36 +0000

Fall is here and most of you have started thinking about or already have fertilized your lawn, shrubs and trees. I thought a few facts on fertilizers and nutritional needs of plants might help you with your fertilizer choices.

Sixteen Elements

There are sixteen known elements required for plant growth and development. Three of these, carbon(C), hydrogen(H), and oxygen(O) are all obtained directly from air and water. The other thirteen elements are supplied by the soil. These are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), sulfur (S), chlorine (Cl), copper (Cu), zinc (Zn), manganese (Mn), iron (Fe), boron (B), and molybdenum (Mo).

A Delicate Balance

These thirteen are elements plants obtain from the soil must be in a slightly soluble form so they can be taken up by the plant’s roots. Each of these elements has a specific function in plant growth and development. If one or more of these nutrients are present in excessive amounts, toxicity or a nutrient imbalance can occur. Or if one or more of these essential elements are in short supply a deficiency can result. Either way plant growth and/or quality may be affected.

Nitrogen

Phosphorus

Macro-nutrients

The nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are the main components, or macro-nutrients, of a suitable fertilizer. The State of Florida is reducing the phosphorus in this equation however as this macro-nutrient is causing pollution problems in local waterways. Sometimes dolomite, a liming material providing both calcium and magnesium, may be included in growing media. Sulfur, the remaining macro-nutrient, may not be a component of the fertilizer and should not be overlooked. Look for fertilizer containing sulfur coated urea nitrogen. This is especially important if you have the dreaded Take-all Patch disease in your lawn.

Nitrogen

Nitrogen is available in two basic forms – inorganic and organic. Plants have a preference for the inorganic, or nitrate form of nitrogen. There are two primary organic forms of nitrogen. One is a man made organic called urea. The other form is a naturally occurring organic material such as sewage sludge and manure. These organic forms of nitrogen are converted to the plant preferred inorganic nitrate form by bacterial action in the soil.

Soluble Nitrates

The soluble nitrate form of nitrogen is quickly available to the plant causing the rapid growth rate which may cause thin cell walls to develop. Nitrate nitrogen doesn’t last long in the environment. It can leach readily from the soil and may even be lost as a gas. Nutrients should be supplied at the same rate the plant can use them. This means soluble nitrates must be applied frequently in very small amounts.

“If you have plants which don’t do well around your pool equipment or overflow it may be chlorine toxicity.”

Micro-nutrients

The micro-nutrients to be used sparingly are boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. Chlorine ordinarily is not valued as a plant food in fertilizer. It can be injurious if high percentages are present, but small amounts may be beneficial under some conditions. If you have plants which don’t do well around your pool equipment or overflow it may be chlorine toxicity.

Micro-nutrients

Micro-nutrients are required by plants in low quantities so you should apply them cautiously. If a deficiency is suspected, it would be unwise to randomly apply all of the micro-nutrients. The result might be correction of one deficiency while inducing a toxicity of another micro-nutrient. This could also lead to an unhealthy plant appearance. Foliar analysis is the most accurate way to determine if a micro-nutrient deficiency is in need of correction.

The Collier County Extension Office can help you with this test. Individual micro-nutrients are available with suggested rates provided for application. However, it is essential that all micro-nutrients be provided in your fertilizer program at least once a year. Fertilizer formulations are available for shrubs, citrus, palms, etc., containing a good balance of these necessary micro-nutrients. Nutritional sprays are liquid formulations that contain the micro-nutrients. These sprays allow the elements to enter the plant through the leaf surfaces.

The micro-nutrients can be tied up in our alkaline soil, due to improper pH, when applied as a granular fertilizer and may not be available to the plant. Therefore, when a micro-nutrient deficiency is apparent, it is more effective to apply a nutritional spray.

Following are some general symptoms of nutrient deficiencies:

Nitrogen – yellowing of entire plant with lower leaves worse and stunted.

Phosphorus – main veins of old leaves become purple or reddish. On fruit trees blossoms drop, fruit is small and matures slowly and few flower buds are formed for next year’s crop.

Potassium – faint yellowing, then browning of margins on old leaves. Then veins become yellow.

Manganese – mottled chlorosis between midrib and primary veins. Entire leaf may turn yellow but midrib and large veins stay green longest. Frizzle top, yellowing, dwarfing and distortion.

Iron – pronounced yellowing on younger leaves with veins appearing as fine green lines, yellow to white if acute. Dwarf leaves, leaf fall, dead wood, dead tips and reduced growth.

Magnesium – yellowing begins on margin and near center of old leaf, progresses inward and downward; tip, upper margin and lower central veins may remain green; necrosis and leaf drop.

Molybdenum – often mistaken for herbicide damage. Dwarfed leaves with irregular, wrinkled margins and prominent midribs and main veins on your leaves and shoots.

Boron – plants grow slowly. Terminal buds die and plant tends to be bushy. Later, lateral buds die, leaves thicken and fruits, tubers and roots become cracked and discolored.

Copper – usually confined to peat or muck soils. Slow growth or complete cessation of growth. Tips affected first and eventually die back.

Zinc – leaves become long and narrow, turn yellow and become mottled with dead areas. Symptoms similar to iron deficiency.

I hope these facts make this necessary chore in your yard a little easier to understand.

The post Fertilizers Facts appeared first on The Wicked Gardener.

Grass types for Marco Island

Eileen — Wed, 12 Jan 2022 00:14:00 +0000

Following are four types of grass used in the Marco Island area and some tips on maintenance.

Bermuda Grass

Bermuda is the grass used on golf courses. It likes to be cut at a very short ½” to 3/4″ making it ideal for golf. It is not desirable for home use due to the high level of maintenance needed. It needs mowing times 2 to 3 times a week during the growing season and must be fertilized 5 to 6 times a year. It is also not tolerant of shade making it susceptible to disease.

Bahia Grass

Bahia is used on some lawns but is now seen less and less. It looks more like northern grass but it has a short life span of 3 to 5 years. It does tolerate foot traffic better than St. Augustine and it is drought tolerant and will regenerate from rhizomes when water is reintroduced. Bahia is actually a pasture grass not meant to be watered, fertilized or mowed. A high cut is necessary to keep bahia healthy and this allows for seed head development. It is not tolerant of shade or salt. And thinning turf allows for weed invasion.

Bermuda

St. Augustine

St. Augustine “Floratam” is the most desirable lawn grass. It is very salt tolerant and due to horizontal stolon growth areas damaged by water or insect problems will fill back in. A high cutting height develops a deeper root system for drought tolerance. Long blades shade the stolons and soil for less water evaporation. Longer blades also emit an enzyme which is toxic to chinch bugs. And finally the thicker grass inhibits weed growth. It should be noted that a low cutting height will stress the lawn causing a shallow root system and allowing sunlight to dry the stolons and soil requiring more water and encouraging chinch bugs to the dry, stressed areas. Weeds can easily invade the sparse turf.

Chinch bugs and grubs are the two most damaging insects for St. Augustine. Chinch bugs cause yellowing along sidewalks and driveways or surrounding old dry spots. The spots will grow and soon double in size. Spread the grass blades at the edge of yellowing or damaged areas and look for black bugs with white wings running around the soil or at the base of the grass blades.

Grubs cause the lawn to turn brown as if it has no water. Pull on sod and if it pulls up with no resistance from roots grubs have eaten them. Treat quickly and roots will regrow and regenerate the lawn.

Empire Zoysia

Empire Zoysia is the new grass on the block and is fast becoming popular. It thrives in our tropical climate yet shows some cold hardiness. It claims to be drought tolerant with infrequent, deep watering but will go off color with drought and cold so can be unsightly during the height of our season. It also must have a lot of fertilizer to keep a good color. It has a deep thick root structure and because it is maintained at 1″ to 2″ looks more like northern grasses. Also performs well in sandy soil and weed tolerant due to thick growth. Problems include sod webworm, billbugs and grubs causing damage along with dollar spot disease. It is moderately shade tolerant but will thin with too much. This is not the environmentally friendly grass it is touted to be due to the water and fertilizer needs.

Watering

Watering two times a week reducing it to once a week or even once every other week in cooler winter weather should keep most lawns in good shape. Stream and rotor heads should run a minimum of 30 minutes in shady areas to 60 minutes in sunny sloped areas. Pop up or mist heads should run a minimum of 15 minutes to 20 minutes per zone depending on sunlight and sloping. Never mix stream & rotor with pop up mist heads in the same zone or in systems still using a turret valve due to different run times. Check for heads blocked by new or grown shrubs or grass. Know that broken risers can affect the pressure in that entire zone. Your lawn should have about 1 inch of water a week. So each run should be ½ to 3/4 of an inch. Use cans to measure water output. Place some where dry and some where lush to check for problems. Individual zone valves and digital timers allow watering for different run times as needed throughout the yard. Turret valves and mechanical timers can not.

“Swales should always be sodded as grass and other green plants hold top soil in place, trap sediments and absorb nutrients and other pollutants which can pollute water.”

Ground Cover

Sometimes something other than grass would better suit your yard or lifestyle. Children and pets should have an area of lawn on which to play. (Bahai actually being the grass of choice here). Swales should always be sodded as grass and other green plants hold top soil in place, trap sediments and absorb nutrients and other pollutants which can pollute water. The same applies along seawalls. Try to use ground covers, ornamentals or grasses to filter pollutants from your yard. Leaching is a process whereby pollutants are flushed out of the soil by water as it percolates through the soil. With no roots to absorb and use these nutrients and other pollutants they end up in our environment.

Gardens with paths throughout the yard can create small worlds of plants, ground covers and mulch. Include some patios or ponds and it can be a place of great relaxation for you and the local fauna.

Things to look for when hiring a lawn service. First determine what level of service you are looking for. Do you do your own gardening and just need someone to mow the grass? Or do you not want to think about your yard maintenance? Do you expect perfection or will you tolerate a few weeds? These things should be spelled out clearly at the initial meeting. Is the company licensed and insured? Licenses include lawn maintenance, landscaping if removing or planting shrubs and trees, pesticide spraying license to treat lawns, special fertilizer license to fertilize, restricted use license for using round up for weed control in beds or spray caution chemicals on shrubs and trees.

Insurance should include general liability for damage done to your property and workmen’s compensation for injured workers so they don’t come after you for compensation.

The post Grass types for Marco Island appeared first on The Wicked Gardener.