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Category: Plants

  • Florida mosquitoes

    Florida mosquitoes

    Category: Plants

    Mosquitos! The aedes aegypti or Asian tiger has always been around in Florida which is why they say Florida has to be vigilant about the Zika virus spreading here. These mosquitos prefer fresh water over our salty mangrove areas that surround Marco Island. We are also often plagued by the salt marsh mosquitos in the summer months especially if the winds are blowing in the right direction to carry them from the mangrove islands to the populated areas. We are seeing this in a big way this year due to large populations of these mosquitos. When we have a lot of rain, the water levels in some of these natural areas can rise enough to allow fish into the areas where they breed. These fish feed on the mosquito larva thus lowering the population when outbreaks do occur. While this helps to reduce the number of salt marsh mosquitos, it is up to us to help reduce the population of fresh water mosquitos.
    The Asian tiger mosquito prefers fresh water over the salty waters surrounding Marco Island. Standing water in our neighborhoods create the perfect breeding grounds for mosquitoes. If there are any places around your home or business where water can collect you may be raising these virus carrying mosquitos. You should get rid of old tires, tin cans, bottles, jars, buckets and other containers, or you should keep them empty of water. Keep rain barrels covered and screened. Repair leaky pipes, outside faucets, and move air conditioner drain hoses frequently or dig French drains and fill with gravel to avoid damp soil. Also change and scrub vases, bird baths or watering pans for pets and livestock at least twice a week.
    Mosquitos are an annoying and serious problem in Florida. If you have work to do outdoors or want to have a picnic or just enjoy your backyard in the evening they can make work very unenjoyable and spoil your good time. The Asian Tiger mosquito prefers activity during the day rather than dusk and dark.
    They are capable of transmitting not just the Zika virus but Denge fever is in the news in our area and can be a very serious disease. Other diseases such as malaria, yellow fever, and chikungunya can also be transmitted to man. Our other species of mosquito can transmit malaria, West Nile virus, encephalitis to man and horses and heart worm to dogs and cats. So not only are they annoying but these diseases are serious and should not be taken lightly.
    We are all too familiar with a mosquito’s appearance. The females have firm mouthparts well adapted for piercing skin and sucking blood. The males cannot suck blood but both sexes feed on nectar of various plants.
    Their life cycle consists of four stages: egg, larva, pupa and adult. The eggs may be laid singly or in rafts, deposited in water, on the sides of containers where water will cover, or on damp soil where they can hatch when flooded by rainwater or high tides.
    All of the mosquito species require water for breeding. Mosquito larvae are not adapted to life in moving waters. They breed instead in quiet water. Since half the land area of Florida is subject to flooding, mosquitos breed in large numbers throughout the state. Contrary to belief, mosquitos do not breed in the heavy undergrowth of weeds or shrubs. Although these places offer excellent refuge for adults, they do not provide a suitable habitat for mosquito larvae. With all of the shrub and yard spraying we do here on Marco for other insects the residual seems to be doing in the mosquitos foolish enough to take refuge in our gardens. This may be why Marco Island has seen a major decline in mosquito populations in the last five years. While I find this a sad commentary on our habit of spraying insecticides it may be a blessing to help keep Zika at bay.
    The eggs elongated, about 1/40 inch long, are laid in batches of 50 to 200 and one female may lay several batches. In warm water, the eggs of most species hatch in two or three days. Some eggs require a drying period, remaining dormant for months. They both hatch soon after coming in contact with water which is why we always have an outbreak soon after a good rainstorm.
    Some species feed on cattle, horses or other domestic animals while others prefer man. A few species feed only on cold blooded animals like lizards and snakes and some live entirely on nectar or plant juices. Some are active at night and others only during the day time.
    Mosquito control is the responsibility of both the individual and our local Mosquito Control District.
    Individuals should follow the above listed advice to eliminate standing water from around their homes and businesses. Keep your screens in good, tight fitting repair. And use repellents like DEET, oil of citronella or Avon’s Skin-so-Soft.
    Some years the mosquitos are worse than others as we are seeing this year. People who have lived here for decades remember when this was the norm for mosquitoes in the summer months. Our Mosquito Control District has done an awesome job of controlling populations but there are times when you just can’t fight Mother Nature and this is one of them. They are not allowed to spray in the sensitive surrounding mangrove islands. While we live on the edge of mangrove forests, we should do all we can in our own yards and surrounding areas to eliminate breeding grounds for the Asian Tiger mosquito to help keep the populations down.
  • Wet weather can cause disease problems for lawns and shrubs

    Wet weather can cause disease problems for lawns and shrubs

    Category: Plants

    Wet weather during the hot summer or cooler winter months can cause disease problems for our lawns and shrubs. Fungus spreads rapidly when you have free water on leaf surfaces for too many hours. The morning, evening and early night showers of summer wet plants and lawns going into the night. and the cooler winter weather lessens evaporation both of which allow plants and soil to remain wet longer. That means you should water less during the cooler winter months than you do during the hot spring and summer months, once a week as opposed to two or three times a week. I often say winter is a great time of year to save on those water budgets.
    Brown patch is a common disease of turf grass affecting both St. Augustine and Bahia. In Southern Florida it is mainly a fall and winter disease but can also occur in the summer months. Grass blades may be killed in a few hours by this fungus. It infects the blade nearest the soil and disrupts transport of water and nutrients to the upper portions of the blade which then die rapidly. The first symptom of the disease is yellowing or chlorosis of the blades. The affected blades dry and turn various shades of reddish brown to straw brown. The fungus is most active at 73 degrees F to 90 degrees F. Excessive nitrogen fertilizer can fuel this fungus. A well balanced fertilizer applied at moderate rates is important in reducing severity of this disease. . Free water droplets that accumulate on blades from transpiration, dew or heavy fog should be removed if temperatures are favorable for disease. Wash the droplets off at sunrise with the irrigation system. This will wash the heavy droplets away and the sun will rise and dry the blades. If the areas of grass are small you can pull large hoses or poles over the grass to knock the droplets from the blades.
    Daconil is a good fungicide for control of Rhizoctonia brown patch. Apply fungicide to the affected area plus a one to two foot border. Two treatments are sometimes necessary for complete control.
    Take-all-Patch is a serious disease fueled by the summer heat. It affects areas damaged by lack of water, insect or disease problems earlier in the year. The summer rains fuel this fungus and it begins to spread. Special fungicides are required to bring this under control and sometimes the best treatment is to replace the area with new sod. I have devoted columns on this hard to control disease.
    Two other leaf diseases of turf grass to watch out for are grey leaf spot and rust. Both like warm, wet weather and will cause grass blades to die leaving brown blades throughout an otherwise green lawn. Unlike brown patch disease nitrogen fertilizer can help the lawn recover from these leaf diseases by encouraging new blade growth.
    Applying a fungicide will help protect the surrounding healthy grass from infection.
    Ornamental diseases caused by fungi include the following. Root rots which are most often caused by excessive soil moisture. The plants will be wilting, yellowing and declining. Stem rots affect the stem near the soil line. The stem will darken, soften and rot. There may be a smell. Leaf spots can be light to dark, small or large, round or with irregular margins. Most leaf spots do not kill the plant but can defoliate them. Rust spores of fungi are normally found on the undersides of the leaves. Wilts affect plants in the water conducting tissues so the plant cannot receive water and will die. This disease may progress slowly or quickly. Powdery mildew grows on the upper and lower sides of leaves. It is white and then turns grey. It is not always serious and is common in low light areas. A powdery mildew was responsible for our loss of impatiens.
    For disease control, choose healthy plants and treated seeds for planting. Remove and destroy all dead or diseased plants and plant parts from the garden. After pruning clean your equipment with a weak bleach solution to avoid spreading disease from plant to plant with your tools. Allow space between plants. Thinning thick foliage allows more air movement and quicker drying.
    Spraying and dusting with fungicides should be done before disease begins or spreads too far. Fungicides protect healthy tissue from disease rather than curing infected tissues. Soil borne diseases can be controlled by treatment of the soil with sunlight or fumigants before planting. Two good fungicides for ornamentals are copper or a systemic fungicide. Copper should be used sparingly as it can accumulate and become toxic if used too frequently.
    The best horticultural method for preventing disease is to water in the early morning rather than in the evening. This allows the plants to dry with the sun before the water can begin activating the fungal organisms and spreading the disease. This process begins to happen after four or five hours of continuous moisture on leaf surfaces. Because diseases turn plant leaves and grass blades brown many people mistakenly believe they need to water more to turn the plants or lawn green again. This action will only exacerbate the disease problem as you add more water to fuel the fungus. If you suspect disease allow the area to dry out, treat with a fungicide and when you resume watering don’t over do it.
  • Hurricane season

    Hurricane season

    Category: Plants

    September is here with another month of heat and heavy rain. This month is the height of hurricane-season. So far so good! Ian just a few of years ago that was a reality check! Remember all of the hurricane preparation and clean up tips to help you through this period.
    Also, keep a close eye on your lawn right now. We can have hot dry periods followed by some very wet weather which we just experienced. These climatic changes are perfect for the breeding of new generations of chinch bugs. Chinch bugs like to lay their eggs when it is dry and then the eggs hatch with the rains. Watch for the telltale yellowing followed by brown spots. Part the blades of grass to find the little black bugs with white wings running in the soil or on the base of the blades. The newly hatched bugs are orange.
    Grubs can also be very active right now. Areas of your lawn that look water stressed may have grubs actively eating the roots of the grass. Grab a handful of grass in these areas and pull on it. If it lifts away from the soil with no resistance from the roots, you probably have grubs. A little digging in the soil will usually produce a fat, white grub lying in a C-shaped position. Grubs come to the surface to feed when the soil moisture is high, as it is after significant rain.
    And finally, stressed turf followed by flooding rains will be more susceptible to diseases such as brown patch, gray leaf spot or root rot. People who mistakenly turn off their sprinkler systems, believing the rain will keep their lawn healthy, can bring on disease problems when lawns are stressed from inadequate water that did not allow for the higher trans-evaporation rates of summer. Brown-patch affects the lawn in circular patterns and the blades can be easily separated from the crown or root area. Leaf disease causes the blades to have lesions, which eventually kills the whole blade. Root rot can be found in those damaged areas from spring. The disease will rot the roots from the stolons allowing them to float above the lawn. All of these diseases can be controlled with the use of fungicides to prevent the spread of disease organisms to healthy surrounding lawn areas.
    The ficus whitefly was decimating ficus hedges all around Marco Island a few years ago. I have noticed a slow decline in the damage these pests are doing to the ficus hedges and think the beneficial insects may be getting the upper hand. The beneficial insects released by the state for the spiral whitefly have been very effective. The sight of black, sooty mold covered palms and gumbo limbo trees is almost a bad memory. Should you see an infestation beginning, drenching with an insecticide containing Imidacloprid will control these, and many other, insects and will last for six months to a year. Drenching rather than spraying is a method that will spare our beneficial insects which, as you can see, will do a much better job of controlling these insects for the long term.
    This is a good time to start preparing vegetable and flower beds by turning the soil and fumigating to control nematodes and diseases. The natural way to fumigate is to cover the garden beds with clear plastic, allowing the heat to kill these organisms. Add some new organic matter by working it into the upper six inches of soil and let them sit until planting season in mid to late October after the weather cools down some.
    If you have poinsettias in your yard you should give them a final pruning this month and then leave them alone for holiday color in December.
    September is the last full month you can get away with heavy pruning on all shrubs. The official cutoff date for heavy pruning is October 15th to avoid damage of tender new growth from cold winter temperatures. Now is a good time to cut out the dead branches left in a lot of shrubs from past wind events.
    After one more month of really hard work October should bring slightly cooler temperatures, less rain and humidity, and a slowed growth rate for your gardens. A welcome relief after a long, hard summer for tropical gardeners.
  • Improper mowing can be harmful

    Improper mowing can be harmful

    Category: Plants

    Proper mowing of your lawn can kill weeds and chinch bugs, cure disease, save water and provide fertilizer. However, improper mowing can be harmful. Mowing is stressful to grass because it is meant to grow tall, mature and make seeds. Man decided that lawns look better when freshly mowed and most people feel the shorter the better. But a close cut doesn’t do much for your lawn or your water bill.
    Grasses are basal-growing plants. The growing point is at the crown (the area between the root and the blade) of the plant near the soil line. The tips are the oldest part of the blade which means you can cut off their tops without killing them. When you cut the tips, new growth pushes up from the crown. When the mower cuts off those grass tips, it causes severe shock to the grass plant. Grass lives primarily on food manufactured in its blades not on what is drawn up through the roots. Cutting the blades reduces the ability of the plant to manufacture food. That food is used for both top and root growth so the shorter you cut the grass the less root growth you will have. A plant with deep roots will be better able to withstand drought, fight off disease and insects and store food manufactured in the leaves. So the longer the root the healthier the grass. Every time the grass is cut the root system is weakened to some degree. When cut too severely, the roots stop growing. Mowing tears the plant and creates ports of entry for disease. Sharp mower blades give a cleaner cut which heals faster. Another problem with close cutting is that it allows sunlight to dry the soil and the additional light will encourage weed seeds to germinate.
    Mowing has actually tamed the wild grasses of our past. Mowing grass before it sets seeds prevents sexual reproduction and many grasses respond by reproducing asexually by spreading stolons and rhizomes creating a thicker lawn. How high you mow will also influence the spread of the grass. A higher cut makes healthier grass with deeper roots, more mass for photosynthesis and more stolons and rhizomes for a thicker sod which means less weed invasion.
    You should also take into account that grass grows at different rates throughout the seasons. The summer months require more frequent mowing than our cold winter and dry spring months when you should not cut as often. Now that we are in the hot and rainy months of summer you need to mow at least once a week. And your mower should be set to the highest setting possible so you can grow a lush healthy lawn. And more importantly, a deep root system for all the reasons I just mentioned. In winter the cold weather will slow the growth and bi-weekly mowing will be all that is needed. Some lawns could go three weeks or a month without mowing. If the grass doesn’t need to be mowed save it from the extra stress and don’t mow it. And in the dry spring months grasses will be stressed by heat and drought so care must be taken to properly irrigate to help ease the stress of mowing.
    In past years drought required the city to reduce our allowed watering to once a week. The fact is our lawns could easily survive on this schedule and be healthier for it. We should use horticultural practices every day which produce deep-rooted lawns that don’t require excessive water to keep them green. All lawns, properly cared for, could be conditioned to require no more than once a week watering all year. The exception would be during the cold winter months when once every two or three weeks will do. I remember the year the Phase 3 water restriction took affect on Marco Island and everybody thought their lawn would surely die if watered only once a week. People were surprised as their lawns remained green and lush. It was because it was during the winter months with the cooler temperatures and lower evaporation rates. That benefit ends as the temperatures begin to climb in March, April and May. Spring is when the benefit of a deep root system and tall grass blades come in to play to allow for less watering.
    Check your irrigation system to be sure of proper coverage. It may seem that the sprinklers are reaching all areas but if you have dry spots on the edge of your sprinkler pattern you may not be getting adequate water at the edges of the sprinkler pattern. Place some empty tuna cans at the center of the green areas and also in the dry areas and measure the water levels after the zone has run. You’ll most likely find you’re not getting enough in the dry areas. This could be dirt in the sprinkler tip, heads not properly spaced or water pressure problems when the sprinklers are running in the wee hours of the morning. When not mowing every week be sure the sprinkler heads stay well cleared of taller grass blades to allow for proper coverage.
    It was once believed that grass clippings were the cause of thatch accumulation in the lawn. It is now known that they do not accumulate unless the clippings are exceptionally long. They break down soon after they hit the ground. In the process they return a lot of nitrogen to the soil. Clippings are a very good thing and should be left to break down and feed you lawn.
    I am seeing a lot of lawns on Marco Island being cut way too short right now. They are being stressed by those short cuts and you are damaging the root systems, requiring more irrigation should the rains stop and allowing weed seeds to germinate as the soil is exposed when you cut off the blades. A lush, green lawn is a beautiful thing. It doesn’t need excessive chemical and water use to look that way if you just raise the mower deck as high as it will go. A deeper lawn is a healthy lawn! Raise those mower decks!
  • Summer Rainy Season

    Summer Rainy Season

    Category: Plants

    The summer rainy season is in full swing. The last several weeks of rain has caused a flush of growth in the garden that will continue through September and possibly into October.
    During the summer months we can have 20 inches of rain in the blink of an eye which literally just happened. With this in mind, the realities of lawn maintenance during the summer months in South Florida can be quite harsh. Within two weeks an entire yard can look like it has been neglected for months. Remember Marco Island is in the sub-tropics.
    Given enough rain grass can easily grow three to six inches in a week. The saying, you can sit and watch the grass grow, is really true here during the summer months. In Aseason@, October through April, it can take a month to see that much growth. Now consider you could not cut the grass on time due to rain. It grows another two to three inches. When you do finally cut the grass it is very lush, wet and hard to cut. It takes you twice as long because you may have to cut areas twice. This leaves little time for other things like pruning or weed control. But you have to make time because these tasks will quickly get out of control if you don’t.
    Weeds take on a life of their own in the summer. You look around and have killed or pulled all the weeds and the gardens are virtually weed free. More of those rain storms go through and another crop of weeds has germinated. You decide to spray again when you mow this week but another rain storm washes the herbicide away just after you complete the job. There is a good chance the weeds will not die. Another week goes by and while some of the weeds died from your efforts last week some have survived. These weeds are now a foot high and producing seeds for the next crop of weeds. They are monsters that look like they have been growing in the garden for a year. More than likely more rain has fallen and has begun to germinate that new crop of weeds as well as fueling the growth of the last crop you are still trying to kill. It is almost a losing battle to keep gardens weed free in the summer!
    Ornamental shrubs grow at astronomical rates this time of year. One of the reasons for this is that we plant shrubs and small trees with a mature size of ten to twenty feet tall and try to keep them pruned into tiny, square hedges around our houses. Once again you can have a foot of new growth in a week with enough rain. Bougainvillea can actually grow four feet of growth in a week. That is not an exaggeration! That kind of growth takes a month or two in season and can take a year in the northern states. Pruning is a constant job this time of year or you will find your shrubs kissing the eaves of your house. That is also the reason this is the best time of year to cut back those shrubs which have become leggy and woody. They will grow back so fast you will be pruning them again within a week or two. Remember mid-October is the cut-off date for severe pruning.
    If you maintain your own yard, you know the realities of the above mentioned growth rates. Imagine having fifty or one hundred lawns to maintain each week. That is the reality for people in the lawn maintenance business. The growing season is slow when most residents are in town and so it seems that the job is an easy one and the company is not spending much time or effort in your yard. But should you decide to come to Marco Island in July, August or September you might be quick to think the landscaper is slacking off while you are not here. He is actually working five times harder and doing his best to keep your landscape neat and trim. At times it is a near impossible task and only the strong will survive in this business. If the gardener seems a little testy it could indicate a slight case of heat exhaustion since that is one of the first symptoms.
    So have a little compassion and give them a break and maybe an ice, cold drink when they arrive to battle the jungle in your corner of the island. They will prevail and those weeds will die, the plants will get cut back and your yard will be the perfect place you desire just in time for season to arrive again.
  • Time for summer tropical fruit

    Time for summer tropical fruit

    Category: Plants

    It is time for summer tropical fruit! Our mangos, pineapples and bananas are ripening all over Marco Island and they are all delicious so enjoy!
    Bananas give a landscape a lush, tropical look with their oversized, palm-like leaves. They are not a true woody tree but are herbaceous plants that grow from two to thirty feet tall. The dwarf varieties like Dwarf Cavendish grow two to 10 feet, Medium varieties like Blue java ten to fifteen feet and the full size commercial varieties twenty to thirty feet. While they can be grown throughout Florida some varieties withstand the colder temperatures better than others. Central to south Florida are better climates for bananas. They prefer a moist, fertile soil and to be planted out of the wind. And they prefer full sun but will tolerate partial shade. Because of our sandy soil bananas need to be fertilized often (4 to 6 times a year) for high fruit production. Fertilize the young plants every two months using one half pound of a 6-2-12 and up to five pounds when flowering and fruiting begins.
    They like regular watering using one to one and a half inches of water a week. Without adequate water they may not produce fruit or it will be small or will produce very little fruit. But don’t overwater because they don’t like wet feet. Bananas have a rhizome root which spreads sideways underground and grows new upright shoots. For great bananas they suggest limiting the plant to three or four stalks of different ages. The oldest and tallest should be the one fruiting. The second one should be one half to one third the size of the first. And then there should be one or two young plants that are six inches to three feet tall. Mulch your bananas by cutting down older leaves and pseudostems to decompose and feed the surrounding soil.
    The best varieties are Dwarf Cavendish, which is popular for its compact size and easy fruiting, Rajapuri and Blue java or ice cream. Harvest your bananas by cutting off the entire bunch when the first hand starts turning yellow. About three months after the plant flowers. The hang the rack in your garage or shed and be prepared to eat a lot of bananas fast!
    Although the climate of Florida is not perfectly suited to large scale commercial production of pineapple, there was at one time a large pineapple farm on Hoar’s Island, now known as Key Marco. This was in the days when the clam factory was also in operation. You can grow very sweet pineapples here and many people have a plant or two tucked into their garden.
    The pineapple originated in Brazil and Paraguay but will grow in all the tropical and warm, subtropical areas of the world. The plant is a small, herbaceous perennial with long sword-like leaves which spiral around the short stem. The fruit develops from the end of the stem and consists of many small, seedless fruits fused together. Size can vary from one to ten pounds or more. Pineapples are oval to cylindrical in shape and yellowish to orange in color when ripe. They can add an interesting year round shape to a border garden or flower bed.
    In the tropics fruit production occurs throughout the year. In Florida greatest production occurs during the summer months. There are many new pineapples on plants in the spring which ripen in July. The fruit should be allowed to ripen on the plant for maximum flavor and sugar content. You can often smell them before you see them as you come upon them in a garden.
    Pineapples grow best where the temperature is warm and relatively uniform throughout the year. They will survive a temperature of 28 F. with much leaf damage and will be killed at lower temperatures. Therefore, in Florida planting should be restricted to southern coastal areas like Marco Island. Prolonged exposure to temperatures in the low 40’s causes internal breakdown or heart-rot of the flesh. Extremely high temperatures cause sunburning and cracking of the fruit.
    While most sandy, well drained soils are satisfactory for growing pineapples, they thrive best in a sandy loam, mildly acid of medium fertility. The plant tolerates drought very well but adequate soil moisture is necessary for good fruit production.
    Propagation is by planting new vegetative growth from the mother plant. There are four types: “slips” from the stalk below the fruit, “suckers” which originate at the axils of leaves, “crowns” which grow from the top of the fruits, and “ratoons” which grow from underground portions of the stem. Slips and suckers are the preferred planting material if they are large and vigorous. My personal favorite is the crown. Simply cut the green, leafy top from your pineapple that you bought at the grocery store, strip a few leaves to expose the stem and stick it in soil in a pot or your garden.
    Pineapples do best when planted during the summer in beds with two to five rows of plants spaced 18 to 30 inches apart. Mulch will help eliminate weeds and conserve moisture.
    Fertilizer containing 7-2-7-3 or 8-3-8-4 (N-P-K-Mg) with 40% of the nitrogen from organic sources can be alternated with foliar sprays of urea nitrogen mixed with ferrous sulfate (iron) about every four months.
    The most troublesome pests of pineapples in Florida are mealybugs and nematodes. For control of mealybugs apply a spray containing Malathion. Do not apply Malathion within 7 days of harvest.
    Nematodes weaken and destroy roots. Affected plants are unable to use fertilizer effectively and lose vigor. Preventive measures are the only way to avoid nematode damage. Use nematode free planting material. Crown and slips which have never been rooted will be free of nematodes or any planting material from nematode free soils. Virgin soil is not necessarily free of the kinds of nematodes which injure pineapple, but is less likely to have injurious nematodes than land in which vegetables or ornamentals have been grown in preceding seasons. Finally, you can fumigate nematode infested soil using a chemical fumigant. Because you need to treat the soil at a fairly deep level for pineapples solar fumigation would probably not be effective.
    Trust me, you don’t know what you’re missing until you’ve tried a pineapple from Marco Island. Plant your own today! And be prepared to visit in July for the harvest.
    Mango trees are full of ripening fruit all around Marco. Mangos are a native of India and Southeast Asia. They were first introduced to Florida in the 1800’s. Mango trees are medium to large with a symmetrical, rounded canopy which can be low and dense or upright and open. The leaves vary from 6 to 16 inches in length and are leathery in texture, wine colored when young becoming dark green when mature.
    The flowers are small, pinkish white and appear from December to April. The large flower clusters contain 500 to more than 4000 flowers. However, the number of fruits which set and mature is very small in relation to the number of flowers produced. Most commercial varieties in Florida produce less than one fruit per cluster of flowers. Average yields of 3 to 5 bushels can be expected from mature trees. You can achieve better yields with good management and favorable weather.
    The fruit of most varieties matures from May to September with a peak in June and July. The time from flowering to fruit maturity is 100 to 150 days. Less time in warmer climates. A dry season preceding and during the blooming period is considered necessary for good fruit production. Anthracnose disease and low temperatures during bloom are the main causes for limited fruit production in Florida. Pollination is mainly by insects.
    The fruits vary in size, shape and color. They can be greenish, yellow or red and can range in weight from a few ounces to more than 5 pounds. Smooth, leathery skin surrounds the fleshy yellow edible portion. This skin can cause severe allergic reaction in some people and should be handled with caution. The crop is considered mature when some fruits on the tree have begun to change color from green to yellow.
    The best temperatures for ripening are 70 to 75 degrees F. Fruits ripened at higher temperatures can shrivel and develop off-flavors. Mature fruits will ripen in three to eight days after harvest. Ripening can be delayed by cold storage for shipping purposes. The lowest safe storage temperature is 55 degrees F.
    Mango trees should be planted to allow 20 to 30 feet of space on all sides. Pruning of young trees is not necessary. After several years of production you might want to cut back the tops and sides of the trees occasionally to make spraying and harvesting easier and to lessen storm damage. The best time to do this is in the summer after all the fruit has been harvested. While severe pruning does not injure the tree it will reduce fruit production the following season.
    Mango trees will grow in many types of soils. They can tolerate some flooding but good drainage is a must for satisfactory fruit production.
    Because of our sandy soil mango trees must be fertilized periodically for good growth and fruit production. Young trees should be fertilized every two months during the first year, beginning with 1/4 pound and gradually increasing to one pound. After that three to four applications a year are sufficient. A quality 6-6-6 or 10-10-10 fertilizer with 4 to 6% magnesium is a good choice for young trees. For bearing trees reduce the phosphoric acid (the middle number) and increase potash (the last number).
    Successful control of fungus disease requires that all susceptible parts of the tree be thoroughly coated with a fungicide before infection occurs. Sprays applied after infection will have no effect on disease development. Sprays must be reapplied as new growth occurs to protect the new tissue and also if weather has reduced spray residues. A successful program depends on the right amount of a recommended fungicide, timely applications before infection is most likely to occur and thorough coverage of susceptible parts. The most important disease of mangos is anthracnose. It attacks flowers, young fruits, leaves and twigs. Black, slightly sunken lesions of irregular shape appear and gradually enlarge and cause blossom blight, leaf spotting, fruit staining and fruit rot. Development is caused by rains or heavy dews. For prevention copper fungicide should be applied weekly from first appearance of flower clusters until all fruits have set and then monthly from fruit set until mid-May for early varieties and mid-June for late varieties.
    Mango scab attacks leaves, flowers, fruits and twigs. In early stages it resembles anthracnose. Lesions of fruit usually become covered with corky brown tissue. It causes distortion of leaves and so is a problem mainly for nurseries. The anthracnose spray program will control scab.
    Powdery mildew attacks leaves, flowers and young fruits. Infected tissues are covered with a whitish powdery growth of the fungus. Lesions develop along the midrib on the under sides of leaves and become dark brown and greasy looking as leaves mature. Severe infections cause failure of fruit set and defoliation of trees. Applications of sulfur will prevent spread of infection to new growth.
    Pests which attack mango trees include mites, scale insects and thrips. These pests only occasionally build up populations large enough to require control measures.
    The mango is considered one of the finest fruits in the world. It can be eaten fresh, frozen, dried, canned, cooked in jams, jellies, preserves, pies, chutney and ice cream. The fruit is a good source of vitamins A and C. One of my favorite recipes is mango upside-down-cake. Yum!
  • August is here

    August is here

    Category: Plants

    August is here and temperatures this month will have highs of about 90-95 and lows in the mid-70’s. With more than 8 inches of rain this is usually one of the wettest and most humid months.
    Keep in mind that though it may be a wet month, transpiration is very high during the hot weather. I wrote about this in another column. Transpiration is a plant process in which water is absorbed by the roots, passed through the vascular system and exited from the plant into the atmosphere. It is a process which cools the plant much like perspiration cools us. This means lawns and plants need large quantities of water more frequently in the hot summer. So be alert for signs of insufficient water between rain showers and use your sprinklers as needed to avoid damage.
    Mosquitos have been in the news lately as carriers of several serious diseases. Encephalitis, West Nile Virus and Deng Fever. While it started out with large numbers, this has not been a bad year as far as mosquito populations are concerned but any mosquito bite could mean trouble. With a lot of rain the mosquitos could increase in numbers. It is very important for everyone to check for any places around your home or business where water collects as you may be raising mosquitos. You should get rid of old tires, buckets and other containers, or you should keep them empty of water. Repair leaky outside faucets and move air conditioner drain hoses frequently to avoid damp soil. Also change and scrub bird baths or watering pans for pets at least twice a week. All of the mosquito species require water for breeding. Mosquito larvae are not adapted to life in moving waters so circulating ponds should not be a problem. They occur instead in quiet water. Since half the land area of Florida is subject to flooding, mosquitos breed in large numbers throughout the state. Mosquitos do not breed in the heavy undergrowth of weeds or shrubs. Although these places offer excellent refuge for adults as anyone gardening can attest, they do not provide a suitable habitat for mosquito larvae. In addition to fresh water mosquitos, we are surrounded by mangrove islands which is a great breeding ground for the salt water mosquito.
    The wet weather of August also provides ideal conditions for the growth of fungi. Root- rot, leaf spot, stem rots and rust are a few disease problems on lawns and shrubs which are fueled by the heavy rains. Remove diseased leaves and stems from the garden and apply a fungicide to prevent fungus from infecting healthy tissue. And, remember to clean your pruning tools with a mild bleach solution to prevent spreading disease while cutting healthy tissue with those same tools. Take-all Patch is a serious lawn disease which can cause your lawn to melt away with the heavy rains.
    Caterpillars are around in great numbers this year. I have noticed large numbers of sod webworm moths flying from St. Augustine lawns. Stinging caterpillars are also probably around right now. Several varieties of stinging caterpillars can be found on shrubs and trees including the I.O., saddleback, puss and hag. The sting comes from the spines on their backs which are connected to poison glands. Their sting is extremely painful and can cause severe allergic reaction in susceptible people. These caterpillars can be controlled with Thuricide or Seven.
    Scales and whiteflies are also active on ornamentals causing sooty mold. Treat with horticultural oil, Merritt or Tempo for control. Chinch bugs, sod webworms and grubs can all damage your St. Augustine lawn this month. Treat as needed with Tempo or other products labeled as effective on chinch bugs, Dylox for grubs and Dipel for the sod webworms.
    If you see a white web on the branches and trunks of your trees, don’t be alarmed. It is a psocid, a tiny insect that feeds on the algae on the trunks of many trees. They spin the web for protection from those August rain showers. There is no need to treat for this problem.
    It is best not to fertilize your lawn in August. If you feel you must fertilize St. Augustine use an organic such as milorganite or iron for a greener color. Do not use a high nitrogen fertilizer now as it will fuel bug and disease problems. It can also make the lawn more susceptible to water stress which can be a problem in high times of high transpiration as the rapidly growing grass requires larger quantities of water.
    When there have been heavy rains the acid loving plants like ixora, gardenia and azalea could use a feeding this month to carry them through their blooming period. Don’t forget to feed rose bushes regularly as well. A good nutritional spray can be helpful for all your plants at this time. Nutritional sprays trans-locate directly through the leaves and so avoids the problem of leaching through the soil which can occur with heavy rains.
    The last pruning of the poinsettias must be done before September if there are to be flowers, actually bracts, in December for the holiday season. You should also not do any more severe pruning of gardenias beyond August as you will remove the old growth required for flowers in the spring.
    Prepare your flower and vegetable beds for fall planting. Rid the site of nematodes and disease using plastic solarization or fumigants. Add organic matter to the soil and then let it rest in preparation for fall planting in October and November.
    It is unbearably hot out there in the garden but you need to put on a good hat and your sun screen and stay on top of your gardening or the bugs, diseases and weeds will take over.
  • Ixora in their full flowering glory

    Ixora in their full flowering glory

    Category: Plants

    The ixora are in their full flowering glory right now. During the summer months the ixora is one of the most colorful flowering shrubs in our landscapes. The growth habit of the ixora is upright, compact and well branched. Texture can range from course to medium fine depending on the variety. The leaves are shiny, green and leathery. They are opposite or whorled, and oblong to 4 inches with short petioles. Stems on new growth are reddish and older bark is dark brown.
    There are four varieties of ixora which are most popular with landscapers and homeowners. The growth habits differ greatly so you should know which variety you want when you buy an ixora.
    Singapore and Maui have a similar habit of growth. Singapore has a yellow flower while Maui is red. This ixora is used for hedges as it is well adapted to shearing. They prefer a sunny exposure with well drained, moist soil conditions. Its size will range from 3 to 6 feet.
    The King ixora is a larger variety used in mixed shrub groupings as an eye catching color specimen plant. It loses its impact when used in a mass or hedge form. Its texture is courser than the Maui and its size is 5 to 10 feet.
    King ixora
    The Dwarf Red ixora is the smallest variety averaging 1 to 3 feet with a very slow habit of growth. This is a compact variety with tiny leaves. It is also well adapted to shearing and is a good choice for a low border in front of taller shrubs.
    Dwarf red
    The Nora Grant ixora is probably the most popular variety in today’s landscapes. Nora Grant is a large variety like the King ixora. The leaves and flowers are larger giving it a course texture. It will average 5 to 10 feet. This ixora should be planted where it will not require constant shearing as the flowering will be greatly reduced by this.
    Pest problems for the ixora include nematodes, aphids and scale.
    Ixoras are also susceptible to diseases of the stem and root. Symptoms of this problem include yellowing leaves, splitting stems and general decline of the shrub. Especially affected are the Dwarf and Nora Grant varieties. Removal of the split, diseased wood by pruning back to healthy wood and treatment with a systemic fungicide will usually bring the disease under control. Nutritional deficiency, especially iron, will exacerbate this problem. Ixoras like a slightly acid and fertile soil. Fertilize twice during the growing season using an 8-2-8 with minor elements. Sequestran iron works especially well for the acid loving ixora.
    Which ever variety of Ixora you choose you can be sure to have a lot of summer color in your garden from this plant.
  • Grueling temperatures in during the summer months

    Grueling temperatures in during the summer months

    Category: Plants

    Whew! Summer temperatures are here a bit early again this year. Just walking from the house to the car can be grueling. If your job involves work in that grueling environment for eight to twelve hours, every day it can become dangerous enough to kill you. Outdoor workers and players should be aware and conscious of the people who work or play with them and watch for signs of distress or illness. Encourage those who work for or with you to sit in the shade and drink cool water as needed. False bravado or the desire to impress the boss, have no place in these temperatures and should be discouraged.
    If you don’t have to work outdoors, yet choose to exercise or do some of your own yard work, be sure to stay hydrated and try to work or play during the early morning or late afternoon hours when it is a little cooler.
    Following are excerpts from the Workmen’s Compensation Workplace Safety publications. Familiarize yourself with the symptoms of heat stress and heat stroke so you can take appropriate action immediately if you suspect either in yourself or someone you are with. It could save a life. Please share these with anyone you think would benefit from this knowledge.
    The human body likes to maintain a constant internal temperature and so must rid itself of excessive heat. It does this through blood circulation at the outer layers of the skin and releasing fluid onto the skin through the sweat glands. When temperatures are warmer, the skin sweating is the only way for the body to maintain a constant body temperature. This only works if the sweat is removed from the skin by evaporation. When humidity is high, the evaporation of sweat is decreased, causing body temperatures to rise significantly.
    Humans can acclimate to heat by gradual exposure to a hot environment. This process can take 5 to 7 days. Heat related illnesses are more likely to happen to people who have not gradually acclimated to hot temperatures. Accidents are more likely in hot environments due to sweaty palms, dizziness or fogging of safety glasses. Mental confusion, tiredness and irritability are signs of overheating. This can result in poor judgement and unsafe practices.
    Too much exposure to heat can cause a variety of problems and illnesses. Heat cramps are painful muscle spasms that can occur when doing hard physical labor in a hot environment. Fainting can happen when standing in one position for an extended period of time in the heat. Moving around, rather than standing still can help prevent this. Heat rash occurs when sweat does not evaporate from the skin. Sweat ducts become clogged, resulting in a rash. Heat rash could result in an infection. Take frequent breaks in a cool place during the day and bathe and dry the skin as often as possible to help prevent heat rash.
    Heat exhaustion is more serious and is caused by the loss of large amounts of fluid by sweating. This can include loss of salt as well. Signs and symptoms include headache, dizziness, weakness, mood changes (confused or irritable), feeling sick to stomach, vomiting, decreased or dark colored urine, light headed or fainting, pale clammy skin. Treat victims of heat exhaustion by moving the person to a cool, shady area, provide cool water to drink, cool the person by fanning them, cool the skin with a wet cloth, lay the victim on their back and raise legs 6 to 8 inches if they are dizzy, lay the victim on their side if nausea occurs, loosen and remove heavy clothing and stay with the victim.
    Call for emergency help if they do not feel better in a few minutes. If heat exhaustion is not treated, it may advance to heat stroke. Heat stroke is the most serious heat related illness. Heat stroke occurs when the body’s temperature regulating system fails and sweating fails or is not adequate to remove the body’s excess heat. Signs of heat stroke are dry, pale skin ( no sweating), hot red skin, mood changes (irritable, confused), seizures or fits and collapse and unconsciousness.
    Prompt first aid for someone suffering heat stroke can mean life and death and should include the same first aid as heat exhaustion plus call for emergency help, lay the person on their back unless unconscious, remove objects close by if person is having a seizure, provide cool water to drink if conscious and place ice under arm pits and in the groin area.
    People are at increased risk for heat related illnesses when they are dehydrated, fatigued, have infrequent exposure to hot temperatures and high humidity, are over the age of 40, are in poor physical condition or overweight, use certain medications (antihistamines, diuretics and some tranquilizers), have had prior heat related illnesses, use drugs or alcohol within the past 24 hours, have heat rash or sunburn or wear restrictive clothing or too much clothing.
    People and employers can protect themselves and employees by following these recommendations. Train all employees on the signs and symptoms of heat related illnesses and how to respond. Schedule the hardest work during the coolest part of the day. Encourage the buddy system so help is close by if needed. Provide plenty of cool water and encourage drinking one cup every 15 to 20 minutes. Encourage wearing light colored, loose fitting breathable (cotton) clothing. Provide frequent short breaks in cool shaded areas. Encourage employees to avoid eating large meals or consuming caffeine and alcoholic beverages before and during work in hot environments. Use fans or air conditioning. Provide tools and equipment that help reduce physical demands on employees.
    Be aware and alert to those around you. If your partner is normally friendly and suddenly becomes angry and verbally aggressive it could be the first sign of heat exhaustion. Point this out and make them take a break. It is really a dangerous work and play environment in Florida during the summer months.
  • July a very wet month

    July a very wet month

    Category: Plants

    Second only to August, July is one of the hottest months with high temperatures averaging 90 degrees and lows averaging 75 degrees. We can expect at least 8 inches of rain making July a very wet month.
    Heavy summer rains can cause nutritional deficiencies in some plants and annuals by washing nutrients through our sandy soil. An application of iron should green them up again. Watch your azaleas and feed them by late spring for strong growth that will give you flowers next spring. It is really too late to prune your azaleas without affecting next years’ flowers. Hibiscus and ixora are in their glory during the hot summer months. A feeding of 8-0-8, or similar analysis, before the summer rains begin, will help keep the flowers on the plant. If they have been subjected to standing or copious amounts of water do not water or fertilize them until they have had a chance to dry out. This is a good time to prune back hibiscus, ixora and oleander to control their size and encourage healthy new growth.
    Citrus trees need to be fertilized if you did not do it in June. This feeding will help your crop mature. Fertilizer should be scattered evenly beneath the canopy of the tree. Be sure not to have fertilizer come in contact with the trunk of any plant. It can cause severe burn and rot of the bark resulting in poor health and possibly eventual death.
    Do not fertilize your St. Augustine lawn in July. Bahia also needs very little fertilizer. If your bahia lawn shows need for fertilizer you should have applied a light application of ammonium nitrate in late spring to revive it. Apply to a dry lawn and water in immediately to avoid burning the blades of grass. Be sure not to scalp your lawn too short to avoid scorching of the crown and roots by the hot summer sun. This is a good time of year to grow roots in your lawn. Remember, the longer the blade the deeper the root. However, it is also important to remember to mow frequently enough to avoid mowing more than one-third of the blades at a time. This can prove difficult when summer rain storms can dump five or ten inches at a time. Take advantage of the rains to sprig St. Augustine Aplugs@ or Bahia seed in any bare spots in your lawn. Chinch bugs, sod webworms and mole crickets are all active so watch for and treat as necessary. Areas damaged in the dry spring months will be more susceptible to both insect and disease problems. Watch for leaf and root disease on St. Augustine grass. A preventative treatment of fungicide would help ward off disease problems in spring stressed lawns. A fungicide such as Banner Maxx, Bayleton, Eagle, Heritage or Cleary 3336 can be used as a preventative treatment for Take-all Patch or other diseases on your lawn.
    Scale, aphids and chewing insects can all be a problem on your ornamentals in July. Worms and weevils will chew along the edges of the leaves, while grasshoppers and katydids chew holes in the center of leaves.
    Diseases are active on ornamentals, flowers and vegetables. Watch for powdery mildew, leaf spots, blights and rots. This is a good time to prune your plants by removing crossing or diseased branches. Timely treatment with a fungicide and good housekeeping of fallen leaves and twigs will help keep diseases in control.
    Some annuals to plant for the hot weather include daisies, zinnias, marigolds, pentas, lantana, salvia, or vinca. Divide crowded beds of bulbs and rhizomes when they stop blooming to assure larger blooms next year.
    Fruits which ripen in July include avocado, carambola, guava, mango, natal plum, passion fruit, papaya and pineapple. This is a good time to plant fruit trees and bananas.
    If you planted your poinsettias after Christmas they may need some attention. Scab can be a problem in July. This is a disease which looks like a scab on your skin and can be controlled with copper fungicide. Prune poinsettias now to promote branching which will result in more bracts (flowers) this winter. Watch for horn worms as they can defoliate a plant in just a few days. The horn worm is a large green worm with a sprig on its posterior end. Its light green color blends in with the foliage so look closely to find it.
    Be sure to keep your roses fertilized after every flush of bloom. You may need to spray on a weekly basis to control black spot and powdery mildew.
    Some flowering plants now blooming are ixora, flame-vine, crape myrtle, hibiscus, and one of the most beautiful, the night blooming cereus. It is worth a trip outside after dark to see this one.
    You will need to pay close attention to your lawn and shrubs now since insect pests and disease are very active in the hot, wet month of July. This is not a month for faint of heart gardeners!

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