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Category: Plants

  • Disease problems

    Disease problems

    Category: Plants

    Wet weather during the hot summer or cooler winter months can cause disease problems for our lawns and shrubs.  Fungus spreads rapidly when you have free water on leaf surfaces for too many hours.  The morning, evening and early night showers of summer wet plants and lawns going into the night. and the cooler winter weather lessens evaporation both of which allow plants and soil to remain wet longer.  That means you should water less during the cooler winter months than you do during the hot spring and summer months, once a week as opposed to two or three times a week.  I often say winter is a great time of year to save on those water budgets.  We all definitely saved water this summer with all of the rain we have had.
    Brown patch is a common disease of turf grass affecting both St. Augustine and Bahia.  In Southern Florida it is mainly a fall and winter disease but can also occur in the summer months.  Grass blades may be killed in a few hours by this fungus.   It infects the blade nearest the soil and disrupts transport of water and nutrients to the upper portions of the blade which then die rapidly.  The first symptom of the disease is yellowing or chlorosis of the blades.  The affected blades dry and turn various shades of reddish brown to straw brown.  The fungus is most active at 73 degrees F to 90 degrees F.  Excessive nitrogen fertilizer can fuel this fungus.  A well balanced fertilizer applied at moderate rates is important in reducing severity of this disease.  .  Free water droplets that accumulate on blades from transpiration, dew or heavy fog should be removed if temperatures are favorable for disease.  Wash the droplets off at sunrise with the irrigation system.  This will wash the heavy droplets away and the sun will rise and dry the blades.  If the areas of grass are small you can pull large hoses or poles over the grass to knock the droplets from the blades.
    Daconil is a good fungicide for control of Rhizoctonia brown patch.  Apply fungicide to the affected area plus a one to two foot border.  Two treatments are sometimes necessary for complete control.
    Take-all-Patch is a serious disease fueled by the summer heat. It affects areas damaged by lack of water, insect or disease problems earlier in the year.  The summer rains fuel this fungus and it begins to spread.  Special fungicides are required to bring this under control and sometimes the best treatment is to replace the area with new sod.  I have devoted columns on this hard to control disease.
    Two other leaf diseases of turf grass to watch out for are grey leaf spot and rust.  Both like warm, wet weather and will cause grass blades to die leaving brown blades throughout an otherwise green lawn.  Unlike brown patch disease nitrogen fertilizer can help the lawn recover from these leaf diseases by encouraging new blade growth.
    Applying a fungicide will help protect the surrounding healthy grass from infection.
    Ornamental diseases caused by fungi include the following. Root rots which are most often caused by excessive soil moisture. The plants will be wilting, yellowing and declining. Stem rots affect the stem near the soil line. The stem will darken, soften and rot. There may be a smell. Leaf spots can be light to dark, small or large, round or with irregular margins. Most leaf spots do not kill the plant but can defoliate them. Rust spores of fungi are normally found on the undersides of the leaves. Wilts affect plants in the water conducting tissues so the plant cannot receive water and will die. This disease may progress slowly or quickly. Powdery mildew grows on the upper and lower sides of leaves. It is white and then turns grey. It is not always serious and is common in low light areas. A powdery mildew was responsible for our loss of impatiens.
    For disease control, choose healthy plants and treated seeds for planting. Remove and destroy all dead or diseased plants and plant parts from the garden. After pruning clean your equipment with a weak bleach solution to avoid spreading disease from plant to plant with your tools. Allow space between plants. Thinning thick foliage allows more air movement and quicker drying.
    Spraying and dusting with fungicides should be done before disease begins or spreads too far.  Fungicides protect healthy tissue from disease rather than curing infected tissues.  Soil borne diseases can be controlled by treatment of the soil with sunlight or fumigants before planting.  Two good fungicides for ornamentals are copper or a systemic fungicide.  Copper should be used sparingly as it can accumulate and become toxic if used too frequently.
    The best horticultural method for preventing disease is to water in the early morning rather than in the evening.  This allows the plants to dry with the sun before the water can begin activating the fungal organisms and spreading the disease.  This process begins to happen after four or five hours of continuous moisture on leaf surfaces.  Because diseases turn plant leaves and grass blades brown many people mistakenly believe they need to water more to turn the plants or lawn green again.  This action will only exacerbate the disease problem as you add more water to fuel the fungus.  If you suspect disease allow the area to dry out, treat with a fungicide and when you resume watering don’t over do it. 
  • Hurricanes

    Hurricanes

    Category: Plants

    In 2004 and 2005 our plants went through five hurricanes without respite in between to recover. Plants burned by wind and salt had just started re-budding only to be burned again and again. The storms combined with wind desiccation, a condition where a plant loses more moisture through the leaves than the roots can provide, and excessive salt spray. This caused burns so severe that some plants never recovered. Washing the affected areas with fresh water helped to wash away excess salt and drenching the soil helped dilute salts accumulated there.
    That brings us to roots. Our plants were blown from west to east with Charlie. And then east to west with Francis. Ivan’s winds stayed off-shore much to our delight. And then Jeanne once again pushed our plants west to east as her winds moved offshore into the gulf. All of these storms were followed in 2006 with Wilma the worst hurricane to hit us since Donna.
    Hopefully we won’t experience a hurricane season like that again. But some of our summer storms can be severe enough with winds that can uproot and move your plants around.
    This relentless tug of war loosened root systems forming air pockets and tearing root tissue. If you had plants which appeared to be uprooted you should have taken action to avoid possible decline or even death in the following months. Adding soil and root stimulant amendments like mycorrhizal fungi, beneficial bacteria and rooting hormones helped these plants recover. Normally when you think of fungi and bacteria the thoughts are not good. Wow! Flooding rains of early summer with no accompanying winds. We needed the water to replenish our aquifers after our long spring drought but our plants would prefer it not come all at once.However both are powerhouses for healthy root development.
    A lot of roots don’t like to sit in water. Heavy rains can saturate the soil and accumulate in areas causing plants to “stand” in water for days. Adding soil and root stimulant amendments like mycorrhizal fungi, beneficial bacteria and rooting hormones can help these plants recover. Normally when you think of fungi and bacteria the thoughts are not good. However, all can be powerhouses for healthy root development.
    Roots absorb and feed needed minerals and water to the plant from the soil. Roots can also store food and can even reproduce new plants vegetatively. They are a very important part of the plant. The roots are the part of the plant that grow down and branch to form a root system to anchor the plant in the soil as well as feeding it. Water and nutrient uptake is accomplished by tiny, thin-walled root hairs that line the main root. Root hairs are extensions of individual root cells which penetrate the soil to absorb water and minerals. Root hair loss through transplanting or rot from too much moisture can stress the plant, stop it from growing and possibly cause death. When root loss or damage happens, a plant will try to produce new roots to achieve the previous size and balance the root system with the above ground growth.
    Mycorrhizal fungi can be a big help in recovery by inhabiting the fine roots of plants. These fungi feed from the sugars in the plants and in return grow mycelia. These are fungi fingers which act as feeding tubes and extend the root surface allowing for better absorption of water and nutrients. Like roots on steroids. This in turn increases the plants tolerance to stresses from poor soil conditions like salt build up after a hurricane, drought or rot.
    For water saturated soil after flooding rains, certain bacteria can help reduce pathogens which cause root diseases and also improve root growth. Torn and damaged root systems will be more susceptible to disease.
    There are many products on the market containing these beneficial ingredients. Look for mycorrhizal and beneficial bacteria on the label. These products produce a more robust root system to absorb and use nutrients and water more efficiently. After hurricanes or wind storms work the soil and amendments into the uprooted or water soaked area. Wash these in by poking the hose into the soil around the roots to fill in any air pockets and to wash the beneficial amendments and soil into the damaged roots where they can go to work healing a weary root system. Farmers are adding it to fertilizer to increase crop production and health.
    Summer months can be a time when nutrients need replenishing but it is best to avoid fertilizing during times when heavy rains are expected. The nutrients flush right through our sandy soil, or even worse, run off when applied before heavy rains and become a direct cause of pollution in the Gulf of Mexico. While the arrival of fall is usually drier, you have to be careful and fertilize before it becomes cool as the plants can slow down, start to nap and not react to or take up the fertilizer applied allowing it to simply leach through the soil unused. Stressed plants will need these nutrients to recover.
    Root damage does not appear overnight. It takes time for damaged roots to develop disease and die. Plants may begin to decline and die months or even years after a flood, hurricane or other stressor has passed. If there is no reason that you can see for the decline of your plant, it may be latent root damage from sitting in a flooded area for two or three days or the seemingly minor uprooting from a passing storm. Try some fungus and bacteria. You might save these plants and watch them flourish again in your landscapes.
  • Mosquitos

    Mosquitos

    Category: Plants

    Mosquitos! The aedes aegypti or Asian tiger has always been around in Florida which is why they say Florida has to be vigilant about the Zika virus spreading here. These mosquitos prefer fresh water over our salty mangrove areas that surround Marco Island. We are also often plagued by the salt marsh mosquitos in the summer months especially if the winds are blowing in the right direction to carry them from the mangrove islands to the populated areas. We are seeing this in a big way this year due to large populations of these mosquitos. When we have a lot of rain, the water levels in some of these natural areas can rise enough to allow fish into the areas where they breed. These fish feed on the mosquito larva thus lowering the population when outbreaks do occur. While this helps to reduce the number of salt marsh mosquitos, it is up to us to help reduce the population of fresh water mosquitos.
    The Asian tiger mosquito prefers fresh water over the salty waters surrounding Marco Island. Standing water in our neighborhoods create the perfect breeding grounds for mosquitoes. If there are any places around your home or business where water can collect you may be raising these virus carrying mosquitos. You should get rid of old tires, tin cans, bottles, jars, buckets and other containers, or you should keep them empty of water. Keep rain barrels covered and screened. Repair leaky pipes, outside faucets, and move air conditioner drain hoses frequently or dig French drains and fill with gravel to avoid damp soil. Also change and scrub vases, bird baths or watering pans for pets and livestock at least twice a week.
    Mosquitos are an annoying and serious problem in Florida. If you have work to do outdoors or want to have a picnic or just enjoy your backyard in the evening they can make work very unenjoyable and spoil your good time. The Asian Tiger mosquito prefers activity during the day rather than dusk and dark.
    They are capable of transmitting not just the Zika virus but diseases such as malaria, yellow fever, chikungunya and dengue to man. Our other species of mosquito can transmit malaria, West Nile virus, encephalitis to man and horses and heart worm to dogs and cats. So not only are they annoying but these diseases are serious and should not be taken lightly.
    We are all too familiar with a mosquito’s appearance. The females have firm mouthparts well adapted for piercing skin and sucking blood. The males cannot suck blood but both sexes feed on nectar of various plants.

    Their life cycle consists of four stages: egg, larva, pupa and adult. The eggs may be laid singly or in rafts, deposited in water, on the sides of containers where water will cover, or on damp soil where they can hatch when flooded by rainwater or high tides.

    All of the mosquito species require water for breeding. Mosquito larvae are not adapted to life in moving waters. They breed instead in quiet water. Since half the land area of Florida is subject to flooding, mosquitos breed in large numbers throughout the state. Contrary to belief, mosquitos do not breed in the heavy undergrowth of weeds or shrubs. Although these places offer excellent refuge for adults, they do not provide a suitable habitat for mosquito larvae. With all of the shrub and yard spraying we do here on Marco for other insects the residual seems to be doing in the mosquitos foolish enough to take refuge in our gardens. This may be why Marco Island has seen a major decline in mosquito populations in the last five years. While I find this a sad commentary on our habit of spraying insecticides it may be a blessing to help keep Zika at bay.
    The eggs elongated, about 1/40 inch long, are laid in batches of 50 to 200 and one female may lay several batches. In warm water, the eggs of most species hatch in two or three days. Some eggs require a drying period, remaining dormant for months. They both hatch soon after coming in contact with water which is why we always have an outbreak soon after a good rainstorm.
    Some species feed on cattle, horses or other domestic animals while others prefer man. A few species feed only on cold blooded animals like lizards and snakes and some live entirely on nectar or plant juices. Some are active at night and others only during the day time.
    Mosquito control is the responsibility of both the individual and our local Mosquito Control District.
    Individuals should follow the above listed advice to eliminate standing water from around their homes and businesses. Keep your screens in good, tight fitting repair. And use repellents like DEET, oil of citronella or Avon’s Skin-so-Soft.
    Some years the mosquitos are worse than others as we are seeing this year. People who have lived here for decades remember when this was the norm for mosquitoes in the summer months. Our Mosquito Control District has done an awesome job of controlling populations but there are times when you just can’t fight Mother Nature and this is one of them. They are not allowed to spray in the sensitive surrounding mangrove islands. While we live on the edge of mangrove forests, we should do all we can in our own yards and surrounding areas to eliminate breeding grounds for the Asian Tiger mosquito to help keep the populations down.
  • Blossom, fruit drop and fruit splitting

    Blossom, fruit drop and fruit splitting

    Category: Plants

    Blossom and fruit drop and fruit splitting are fairly common problems for fruit trees. While losing blossoms and small fruit from your fruit trees can be disturbing it is usually a natural process. Trees which bloom profusely like the mango and avocado could not possibly hold all of the fruit which forms on each limb and so it sheds the excess. You can also remove some small fruits yourself which will increase the size of those allowed to mature. This is actually a good idea for young newly planted trees to allow the tree to use its energy for growth rather than fruit production.
    Or other stresses could be affecting the tree. A proper fertilizer program should be maintained throughout the year. With little or no fertilizer the tree will not have the essential nutrients for growth and fruit production. A balanced fertilizer containing the proper micro-nutrients and the basic macro-nutrients should be applied several times a year. When nutrition is responsible for blossom and fruit drop, nitrogen deficiency is usually the problem, although phosphorus and zinc deficiencies can also be a problem. The best way to treat a nutritional deficiency is to prevent it using a fertilizer containing all the elements necessary for proper growth. Look for a fertilizer labeled as a fruit special. This blend will have the micro nutrients necessary for fruit production.
    Improper watering is one of the primary causes of blossom and fruit drop. The roots of a citrus tree spread outward, just below the soil surface. The bloom period occurs during the dry season so it is easy for your tree not to receive an adequate supply of moisture. Observing the weather conditions and watering at regular intervals during the dry periods will help prevent fruit loss, not just in citrus but in all fruit trees.
    Poor pollination can also cause problems. Often two types or cultivars of a particular fruit tree are necessary for proper pollination. You can check the subtropical fruit literature at the public library to determine whether your tree requires a pollinator or not.
    Finally, strong winds will cause blossoms and small fruit to drop.  Even mature fruit will fall if the winds are strong enough as those who cleaned up after Hurricanes Andrew and Wilma can attest.
    Fruit splitting usually occurs in September and October. This can happen when not enough copper is available to the tree. Splitting also can be a problem when there is an acute deficiency of other fertilizer elements necessary for plant growth. During certain times of the year there may be periods of heavy rainfall or drought. The problem is often accentuated just after a period of moisture stress followed by heavy rains. The tree takes up considerable moisture and forces it into the fruit. As the fruit nears maturity the rind becomes less pliable and fails to expand properly. Some varieties and young trees are more susceptible to this problem than older bearing trees. There is nothing you can do for the current crop. Next year splitting can be lessened by a balanced fertilizer program containing the necessary minor elements and by more uniform irrigation during the fruiting season. You should remove the affected fruit as it can attract insects.
    And finally, many fruit trees have a habit of bearing a large crop of fruit one year, while resting with a smaller crop the next year.  Keep your trees well fertilized and watered and enjoy the “fruits of your labor”.  Sorry I could not resist.
  • Integrated Pest Management

    Integrated Pest Management

    Category: Plants

    The regulatory method of Integrated Pest Management includes preventing entry and establishment of foreign pests.  The first line of defense is to identify and then suppress new pests as they are first discovered in limited areas.  If suppression is not achieved you then turn to containing and eradicating the pest.
    The Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services, Division of Plant Industry in Gainesville is responsible for the regulating control necessary to suppress and control the movement of dangerous pests.  This is achieved using a variety of means.
    • Certification, which assures pest free materials are moved between states or countries.
    • Inspection of nurseries and plants being moved to identify and assure control of the spread of harmful pests.
    • Surveys to identify infestations of harmful pests accidentally introduced into an area.
    • Establish and enforce quarantines to prevent movement of harmful pest infestations.
    Even with all of these controls in place new pests and diseases are discovered all of the time. The Division of Plant Industry and University of Florida IFAS Extension release news of new pests via e-mail so that those of us out in the field every day can keep a watchful eye and report and sightings. Following are some of the past releases to be on the look out for and report if you see them.
    Laurel Wilt Disease is a destructive disease of redbay, avocado and other trees in the laurel family (Lauraceae). This fungus infects the sapwood of trees restricting the transport of water causing the leaves to wilt and eventually the tree to die. The fungus is spread to the trees by a non-native insect, the redbay ambrosia beetle first detected in Savannah, Georgia. Laurel wilt has been discovered in an avocado tree in a commercial grove in south Miami-Dade County. To view the signs of laurel wilt disease and the redbay ambrosia beetle Google “Laurel Wilt Disease and Ambrosia Beetle” and report any sightings to the DPI help line at 888-397-1517.
    Royal Palm Bug is being called the chinch bug of royal palms. While they are not considered deadly they do cause considerable aesthetic damage to the fronds from their feeding. Damage is heaviest from mid-March to early July. Damage is minimal after that and resembles manganese deficiency with fronds browning in uneven patterns. Root drenches of Merit have proven effective but the uptake is slow. For immediate results use a foliar application. One soil application of Merit has provided control for two years. To view this problem Google “Royal Palm Bug” and report sightings. I have personally seen this problem on several royal palms on Marco Island.
    Red date scale is attacking our heretofore pest free pygmy date palms (Phoenix roebelenii). Palms planted in shady areas or lanais are most bothered by this pest. Those trees in planted full sun are not as infested. The scale appears in a white waxy material with the occasional red scale showing through. They congregate at the base of newly emerging fronds, on exposed roots and the trunk. This scale is hard to control as it has repeating generations producing a complete new population from egg to adult in only sixty days. Also, it is hard to spot the new infestations as they are in crevices of the newly emerging fronds allowing the population to grow unnoticed. Once again Merit or Bayer Advanced Tree & Shrub Insect Control as a root drench will translocate throughout the plant to provide control for even the hidden pests missed by topical sprays.
    Sri Lanka Weevil (Myllocerus undatus) adult is about ¼ inch long and whitish-gray. They resemble our native weevil the Little leaf notcher but have a spur on the legs and a light yellow head. Their feeding is heaviest when plants are producing new foliage in the spring. They will feed on a wide range of fruit trees, palms, ornamentals and citrus. Lychee and mango trees are favorites. I have seen this weevil on Indian Hawthorn on Marco Island. If you feel control is necessary with severe infestations Sevin or Orthene can be applied. To view this pest Google “Sri Lanka Weevil”.
  • Backyard Pond

    Backyard Pond

    Category: Plants

    Creating a water feature in your yard used to be difficult back in the day when lath and plaster or concrete were used for construction.  We now have pre-formed pools and pond liners that make for a weekend job.  A water feature is an attractant for birds and other wildlife and can be relaxing when the water is moving creating a peaceful sound. 
    The first step is to decide where you want to locate the water feature. You will want to be able to see it from a deck, patio or windows from inside the house so that you can enjoy watching the wild life that will be attracted to the yard. Also, place it so you can hear the gurgling of the water for the peaceful vibe.
    If using a preformed pool use a piece of rope or hose to outline the pool edges to the ground. Next excavate the hole while following the profile of the pond including any interior shelves. Place the pond into the hole occasionally to check the fit. Make the hole a bit larger than the pond which will make back filling easier. To check the depth of your hole lay a piece of wood across the opening and measure to the bottom. Then place your pool into the hole and check that it is level with the land around it. If you have rocky soil you may want to add a shallow layer of sand to create an even surface for the pool. Now it is time to add water and begin packing soil around the edge. Packing the soil as you fill the pool with water will ensure the levels of the pool remain true to the original shape being especially vigilant under the shelves of your pool. Be sure your back fill does not raise the levels of the edges around your pool.
    If you decide you would rather create a free form water feature there are now pond liners you can use. Once again create the shape of your water feature using rope or a hose. Excavate the soil to the desired depth leaving a shallow ledge about half the depth of the pool. You can use the excavated soil to create raised garden beds to make your water feature look more natural. Or you can remove the grass from around the hole to allow for pavers creating a neat edge. Now remove any sharp stones or roots sticking out of the soil and place a cushion of ½ inch of sand on the bottom of the excavated hole. If you have a very rocky soil you can purchase a polyester matting material designed for the job of protecting the pond liner. Now it is time to place the liner in the hole. Drape it loosely in the hole making sure there is sufficient overlap all around. Hold the edges in place with rocks or bricks. Fill with water while lifting the bricks occasionally to allow the liner to settle into the hole. Remove any creases by stretching and adjusting the liner as it fills. Once the pond is full, cut off the extra liner leaving at least 6 inches all the way around. This will be covered and held in place by the pavers or pins and excess dirt used to create your gardens.
    My late husband, Peter, built a magical pond and stream creation in our back yard over 20 years ago using the old lath and plaster method. Our waterfront back yard had just the right slope for a running stream with waterfalls along the way. He dug an upper pond which connected to a lower pond with a winding stream that included mini rapids and several small waterfalls. The water was circulated back to the top using a pump in the lower pond which brought the water back to the upper pond via underground pipes. Unfortunately, several hurricanes damaged the plaster liner causing serious leaks. While still an interesting landscape feature, it has not been a working water feature for over a decade. I plan to resurrect it using flex seal paint to repair the cracks and look forward to the sound of gurgling water and the wildlife it will attract.
    If you want to add plants to your water feature there are many aquatic plants you can purchase. You simply use an old tub or plant them in the containers they come in. There are special planting baskets that you can line with burlap or a special liner to hold in the soil. After planting with soil cover the surface with gravel to hold the plants in place until they have a chance to root. Place them in the shallow areas of your pond. There are also floating plants like water lettuce that your simply place in the water. Be careful not to buy or accept from a well-meaning friend invasive water plants. That is the equivalent of taking invasive cuttings of landscape plants. You will regret it as they spread uncontrollably and take over your water feature.
    If you decide to add fish do not release them into the pond before floating the bag in the pond water for a couple of hours to equalize the temperature of the bag and the pond. And do not leave them in the bag too long as the oxygen can be depleted starving the fish of their much needed oxygen.
    So if you have always wanted a backyard pond next weekend might be a great time to get it done.  Happy excavating!
  • Hard Summer Months

    Hard Summer Months

    Category: Plants

    The official start of summer is almost here with the beginning of June.  June is the start of the rainy season as well as the first month of hurricane season.  Here we go!
    Temperatures and humidity begin to rise with highs in the 90s and lows in the 70s. While we may see a lot of rain we may also experience periods with little or no rain. Due to the increased transevaporation rate, these higher temperatures can cause water stress on lawns, shrubs and trees in a short period of time. So it is important to have your sprinkler system on and set to twice a week allowing for one inch of water per week with a rain sensor that will turn the system on and off with ½ inch of rain. That way your system will water even if we have those short bursts of rain that only water a fraction of an inch.
    If you have not fertilized yet you need to get this done. The plants will tolerate the higher temperatures and stress of summer much better if they are healthy and well fed. Also, it is better to not fertilize in the summer as it can cause excessive growth which thins and weakens plant cell walls allowing for disease problems. Not to mention the extra work it will create for all you gardeners out there. Use a lawn fertilizer with 50% slow release nitrogen and equal amounts of nitrogen and potassium. If you have palms in your landscape they will especially like this analysis. An example is a 15-0-15 analysis. For shrubs and palms choose an acid and palm mix which will help lower the ph. of your soil. The ixoras, gardenias and magnolias will do well with this fertilizer along with most of the plants in the landscape. Mulch will help with weed suppression and as it decomposes will also add organic matter to the soil and help to lower the ph.
    Shrubs and trees should be prepared for hurricane season by pruning and trimming back. Formal hedges should be trimmed often enough so that you are trimming only new and supple growth. Individual shrubs that have overgrown the bounds of the garden should be brought under control before the growing season of summer gets underway. You can either head back by trimming all terminal branch ends back to your desired size or thin the shrub by trimming longer branches back into the shrub reducing the overall size of the shrub to allow for summer growth.
    Trees should be thinned of crossing and interfering branches removing any that touch buildings or are too close to overhead power lines. Quite often power outages are caused by overgrown trees blowing into power lines causing short circuits or completely breaking the lines. Also dead branches can disconnect from the trunk and damage anything nearby. So check your trees because the month of June is a good time to contact your tree company to inspect your trees and trim as necessary.
    Palm trees should only be pruned to a 3 o’clock 9 o’clock shape. Never remove so many palm fronds that it goes straight up into the air. Palm trees use their fronds to make food for the tree from the sun through a process called photosynthesis. They also take water from the air for the tree. When you remove too many green fronds the tree’s ability to make food is greatly diminished. Another reason is that the heart or growth point of a palm is in the middle of the fronds directly above the brown wood of the trunk. When you remove too many green fronds it exposes this area and weakens it making the entire top of the palm tree susceptible to breaking off during hurricane winds. The term “hurricane cut” should not mean removing most of the green fronds. It is a bad practice so avoid doing it.

    Most winter annuals are spent and need to be cleaned from your flower gardens if you have not already done so. There are many annuals and perennials that will tolerate our summer heat and rain and can be planted in June. Following are a few:

    • Celosia, Cosmos, Dahlia, Marigold, Portulaca, Salvia, Sunflower, Berbena, Vinca and Zinnia.
    • Bulbs for our area include: Caladium, Canna Lily, Crinium lily , Day Lily, Gloriosa Lily and society garlic.
    Some pests to watch for include aphids, whitefly, scale and caterpillars on shrubs.  And Chinch bugs, grubs and mole crickets on lawns.  And with the start of the rains disease will become more prevalent. 
    Put on your hat, gloves and sunscreen and prepare yourselves for the hard summer months of gardening ahead. June is just the beginning.
  • Flush of growth with the Summer rains

    Flush of growth with the Summer rains

    Category: Plants

    May is here which means that summer is just around the corner.  May temperatures usually average highs in the 80’s and lows in the 70’s.  We will have some rain but not as much as June will bring.  Watch your lawn for water needs.  If you turn your sprinklers off because of rain don’t forget to turn them back on.  It is very hot and our sandy soil will dry out quickly.  Once again, I would advise everyone to have a rain-sensor installed to turn the sprinklers on and off automatically after rains.  This devise won’t forget to turn the system back on the way people do.  In the past we have been under watering restrictions this time of year, allowing only two days of watering a week.  This is not the hardship people think it is as two days a week is really all you should have to water if you condition your lawn by watering less often and growing deep root systems.  With droughts becoming more severe we may find restrictions in the future that allow for one day only.  If you have a deep root system you should have few problems with that.
    The spring flush of growth which your plants experienced has now hardened but there will be another flush of growth with the summer rains. And along with this new growth will be more aphids to enjoy the new, tender tips of your plants. They excrete a honey dew like substance onto the stems and leaves of the plants they are feeding on. This honeydew is soon attacked by a black, sooty mold. Some people mistake this for disease and treat with a fungicide when they should apply an insecticide for the aphids or other sucking insects. You can wash this unsightly sooty mold off with a strong hose. Scale, whitefly, thrips and various worms and caterpillars will also be a problem on your plants in May.
    On the lawn, mole crickets begin to hatch around the end of May or early June. These insects are more of a problem in Bahia grass than St. Augustine grass. However, they have been known to attack and damage St. Augustine. They loosen the soil and feed on the roots of the grass. Look for yellow streaks and a softness of the soil which you can feel when you walk on the lawn. Treat quickly with mole cricket bait. Also, mole crickets are attracted to bright light. It would be helpful to use yellow colored, bug lights in your outside fixtures so you don’t attract this insect to your lawn.
    Chinch bugs can become active after any rains we may have. Be sure to watch for yellowing of the grass blades especially along sidewalks and driveways or along edges of damaged areas in the lawn. Treat with insecticide labeled for chinch bugs.
    Gardenias are blooming profusely. When they are finished blooming is the time to prune them back if you are going to. Remember that gardenias set flowers on old growth so you want to prune now and leave the plant alone until it flowers again next spring. Some varieties will bloom year round. Be sure to prune selectively leaving some old growth for flowering each time you prune.
    A lot of bulbs have finished flowering. Remove the old flower stalks and seed pods as soon as possible as they take strength from the bulb and could adversely affect next years’ flowering. You can plant the seeds for new plants but it will take several years for the new plants to flower. This is also a good time to dig your bulbs and separate the bulblets for replanting. These will also take years to flower for the first time.
    Winter annuals are already showing signs of stress from the heat. By the end of May most will be ready for removal. It is time to plant summer annuals in their place. You may want to plant some perennials and bulbs in with your annuals so you don’t have to replace entire beds at one time. Some summer annuals are celosia, coleus, crossandra, gaillardia, gazania, marigold, nicotiana, ornamental pepper, pentas, portulaca, salvia, vinca and zinnia.
    You can prune your flowering trees if they have finished flowering. May is also a good month to plant and transplant ornamentals and trees. Wait for the drought to be over first.
    Remember, summer is just around the corner and with summer comes the rain and the tremendous growth of everything in your yard. Are you ready?
  • Pretty pink trees blooming in the Medians

    Pretty pink trees blooming in the Medians

    Category: Plants

    There are many flowering shrubs and trees either in bloom or just beginning to bloom right now around Marco Island.  Several people have asked me about the pretty pink trees blooming in the medians.
    The Tabebuia heterophylla or pink tabebuia is a variety that will grow to 50 feet and so needs plenty of room.  There is also a dwarf variety, T. bahamensis which will only grow to 7 feet. This is the variety you see blooming right now in the medians.  Most landscapes are too small for the larger variety so be sure what you are buying.   
    The Tabebuia caraiba is a beautiful, yellow tree that is also blooming along our streets. They grow to 25 feet in height and have a compact, upright habit of growth making them a good choice when space is limited. The tree is deciduous in winter and will make quite a mess while losing its leaves. The reward is the bell shaped, yellow flower produced in profuse clusters before the new foliage forms. They prefer full sun, average moisture and good drainage. No pests bother this tree.
    The Hong Kong Orchid tree has an orchid like flower 6 inches wide and rose-purple in color. The flower has a delightful scent which fills the air around the tree. They are an open, spreading shade tree which will grow to 35 or 40 feet in height with a 30 foot spread. The tree is evergreen but loses some leaves when in bloom. They prefer full sun, moist to semi-moist, well-drained soil conditions. There is also a pure white flowered variety, B. purpurea candida, which they have planted along with the pink tabs in the medians.
    The Frangipani Plumeria is also getting ready to flower. This is another fragrant tree which fills the air with a nice, light scent. The flower is used to make the Hawaiian lei. They are a small broad crowned tree which will grow to 20 feet in height with a 15 to 20 foot spread. The flowers come in yellow, pink or white. They lose their leaves in the fall although there is a variety that does not defoliate. The stiff, thick branches are interesting with no foliage until they begin to flower in spring and summer. Full sun is best with rich, moist loam.
    The Confederate Jasmine is a woody vine with pure white, 1 inch fragrant flowers. They will grow to 20 feet if supported with arbors or trellises. This vine can also be trained in espalier fashion. The Jasmine Minima is a dwarf ground cover variety and lacks the fragrant flowers. San Marco Villas on San Marco Road has beds of the confederate jasmine throughout the front landscaping. You can smell it in the air when you drive by.
    The Gardenia is a rounded shrub which will grow to 8 feet tall by 6 feet wide. They produce handsome, white flowers up to 5 inches wide in the spring and early summer. The gardenia is valued especially for its fragrance. They prefer sunny locations with fertile soil and good moisture. Pests which attack the gardenia are aphids, scales, mealybugs, white fly and nematodes. It is best to by grafted stock.
    The Bougainvillea is also entering the height of its flowering season. It has had a setback because of the desiccating winds of past winter storms. Look more closely if your bougainvillea looks dead on the one or more sides. If you see the new leaves already emerging leave it alone and it will begin flowering before you know it. The various reds and purples of this plant are bright spots in the landscape. They have an upright, sucker growth which will add several feet to the shrub each season. They are a very thorny stemmed plant. A less thorny species has the rose red flower bracts. A dwarf variety has a low compact growth habit. The bougainvillea thrives best in full sun with normal watering. They won’t flower as well when planted in a moist soil or shady location. This is another plant suitable for espalier, arbors or even climbing trees. They are also good for use in pots.
    These are just some of the flowering shrubs and trees which help to make Marco a colorful place to be in the spring. Enjoy the color Marco Island!
  • Garden Column

    Garden Column

    Category: Plants

    This week we celebrate Earth Day.  This holiday was first celebrated in 1970.   It is a great day to think about the beautiful environment surrounding us on Marco Island and how to perhaps create habitats (think your yard) that are more friendly and inviting to the environment and the creatures that call it home.
    The flora and fauna of South Florida are quite diverse, made up of microclimate environments called communities.  Each of these communities has its own plants and animals that rarely leave their own area.  These are broken out as coastal dunes, hammocks, freshwater swamps or wetlands, saltwater wetlands, sand pine scrubs, dry pineland and pond and river margins.  Marco Island has areas that would apply to all of these communities. 
    Coastal dunes B Hideaway beach; Hammocks B Indian Hill or Key Marco; Freshwater swamps or wetlands B Marco Lake; Saltwater wetlands B along Caxambas Drive, behind Sheffield or Key Marco fringe; Sand pine scrub or dry pine land B inland Marco Island and river margins along the Marco River.
    The majority of our flora is tropically oriented.  Nurseries tend to sell a lot of imported exotic plants from other places but there is a trend back to native plants as awareness of water and energy issues arise.  True native plants can better survive our seasonal weather extremes without special care and watering once established.  They also provide habitat for local fauna.  While still hard to find, more and more local nurseries are able to obtain most natives you might want.  The fire bush flowers all year and attracts butterflies and the beauty berry has bright purple berries that the birds love.
    A lot of the more colorful shrubs, which were imports long ago, have become such a common site they are considered by most to be native.  Hibiscus, bougainvillea and ixora are a few examples that fill our landscapes with color.  While they are beautiful, they require constant care from insects and disease, cold damage and extra watering.  A trend toward using exotics more sparingly and introducing more native plants to our landscapes would be a good thing.
    As our island develops the last remaining habitats for our local fauna are disappearing.  Some, such as the egrets and eagles, have adapted to life with man.  Egrets will get in front of my mower and I have to come to a complete stop as they go after the bugs I stir up.  A nesting pair of eagles lived in a nest for over twenty-five years two feet from the back yard of a house I maintained on Shadow Ridge Court.  This lot happens to be at the end of the practice driving range of the Island Country Club.  These eagles endured my lawn mower, weed whip and hedge trimmers as well as the big machine that traverses the driving range picking up the golf balls at the end of the day.  Not to mention the occasional wild ball that probably hit the nest.  I watched many baby eaglets fledge from this nest.  Others, like the pink flamingo and the quail, have slowly perished.  I never got to enjoy the pink flamingos but used to love watching quail families cross the streets.  You rarely see them anymore.  They, like the burrowing owls, lived in our vacant lots, which are mowed regularly.  We now protect the burrowing owls but it is too late for the quails.  One thing we could do to try to save some of our local fauna is to create backyard habitats for wildlife.  This does not necessarily mean you have to have a wild yard.  You should simply think about your plant choices and consider how these plants could help the wildlife you would like to attract.  Provide small fruits and seeds for birds and a source of water.  Have tall grasses or a brush pile for animals to hide in.  Leave open sandy areas and begin a burrow to attract owls or tortoises.  Native plants are a better choice since Florida wildlife evolved with Florida plants.  Maybe the city would consider allowing vacant lots to return to a native state to become mini wildlife refuges.
    To create an environment that suits your property, keep your environmental community in mind.  Don’t try to grow salt sensitive plants on the beach or plants requiring good drainage in low, boggy areas.  A jungle or hammock will be cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter because they maintain a uniform climate of high humidity and frost- free temperatures making then suitable for most tropical plants.  After establishing the more hardy canopy plants you can introduce the more tender, under-story plants as the yard begins to mature.

    Things to remember when creating a habitat are:

    You must provide food, water and cover for the wildlife.

    The habitat area must be at least 10 square yards.

    You should use at least 50 percent native plants in your habitat area.

    You do not have to completely re-landscape to establish a habitat. Select a small area of your landscape and add some of the features listed above. An example could be a flower garden to attract butterflies with a birdbath in the middle. The flowers would provide food for the butterfly larvae and the larvae would provide food for birds attracted by the birdbath. We installed a pond system in our back yard and have several bushes and trees with fruits and berries. We love watching our backyard as the diverse species of birds and butterflies come and go. We see cardinals, blackbirds, redheaded woodpeckers, pileated woodpeckers (I just saw one two days ago), purple martins (there are special houses for them), and the favorite with our visitors, a gray heron that feeds on frog eggs from the ponds when available. There are many more I have not identified who stop in on their migration north or south.
    Or, if you have always wanted to live in the woods you can create your own jungle or hammock and screen yourself from your neighbors, street noise, cut your fuel bill and attract birds, butterflies, squirrels and other small creatures to your yard, not to mention spending less time, energy and money keeping a lawn in shape.  The most maintenance needed would be to pick up fallen branches and pull unwanted weeds.  If properly planted, a jungle or hammock on a small lot can be attractive in the wild state.  You can experience and live in the real thing in the community of Key Marco.  Their woods are home to bobcat families with kittens and one of the largest tortoise populations on Marco.  One spring day I watched as a flock of Indigo Buntings flew by in undulating beauty.
    Some animals are happy to live in our neighborhoods as they are, no changes needed.  The homes on Dogwood and Sheffield have similar plant communities and wildlife as does Key Marco with bobcats spotted running through the yards and many tortoise burrows.  In the front yard of one of my homes on Dogwood Drive a very small tortoise burrow appeared in the front lawn.  I only realized what it was because I see so many of these tiny burrows in Key Marco.  I protected it with flags and my crew and I watched as the burrow and the tortoise grew over the summer months.  When the homeowner returned for the season with her dogs we thought the tortoise might abandon the burrow for safer living arrangements, but it stayed put and now lives with our weekly mowing and the dogs.  In the Copperfield Court neighborhood you used to see many rabbits darting from yard to yard taking refuge under hedges and bouncing through the vacant lots.  The end of Laurel Court used to have a resident chicken!  That is until a new house was being constructed and it disappeared.  This chicken would garden alongside me happily eating whatever I stirred up for him.  What a treat.  And let us not forget the snakes.  I have been begging people to leave them alone and not kill them for years.  I do see more large snakes now than I have in the past but we still have a long way to go on that one.  Remember they eat rats and keep the populations down so we don’t have as many in our attics.   
    We are all so fortunate to live on an island surrounded by exotic tropical plants, birds and animals which most people never have the pleasure of seeing in their lifetimes.  Rather than scaring them all away with our development let us develop habitats in our own backyards to attract them to live alongside us here on beautiful Marco Island.  Happy Earth Day everyone!

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