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Category: Environmental

  • Serious consequences of soil compaction when trying to grow anything green

    Serious consequences of soil compaction when trying to grow anything green

    Category: Environmental

    Soil compaction can bring with it serious consequences when trying to grow anything green. In fact it can be almost impossible to establish or maintain plants in compacted soil because it interferes with the movement of water, air, nutrients and roots in the pore spaces between soil particles. This makes root penetration and growth harder leading to poor shallow rooting, poor plant growth and a greater need for irrigation and fertilizer. As a result soil compaction can result in increased costs for the homeowner for water, fertilizer and in the end plant replacement. Compaction issues also have a detrimental effect on the environment because of increased erosion and runoff volumes, which in turn increases the delivery of nutrients and other pollutants to nearby water bodies. Since all the fertilizer and water being put on the compacted landscape cannot percolate down through the soil to be used by the root systems to filter out these pollutants they have nowhere to go but into the surrounding ecosystem. Obviously not a “Best Management Practice”.
    Compaction can be caused or exacerbated by driving on landscapes with heavy equipment during construction or constant traffic such as using unpaved areas as driveways or for parking. Walking will also cause areas to decline, especially in St. Augustine grass which does not tolerate foot traffic well. This problem can be accelerated if the soil is wet. The best way to deal with soil compaction in the landscape is to prevent it from happening. You should limit, or eliminate, the amount of traffic over future or existing planting areas. In fact many municipalities have rules pertaining to the protection of existing plants when building on a site. Marco Island’s Article IV. Landscaping code states (b) During construction, all reasonable steps necessary to prevent the destruction or damaging of existing vegetation shall be taken. No excess soil, additional fill, equipment, liquids, or construction debris shall be placed within the drip line of any vegetation that is required to be preserved, or that will be credited towards the required landscaping. And also (c) Protective barriers shall be installed and maintained beyond the drip line of all retained vegetation unless site improvements prohibit installation of barriers beyond the drip line, and shall remain in place for the duration of the construction process phase. The location of the protective barriers shall be determined by a landscape architect or design professional. These rules are in place because the constant traffic means the plants will not be a viable part of the landscape once the root system has been compacted.
    There are few options for improving compacted soil. Deep tillage or sub-soiling using large machinery to break hardpans and loosen the soil can be impractical in urban areas because of buried utilities and the expense of dealing with those. Obviously it would mean removing all vegetation and beginning again in an existing landscape. The only place this would be considered is at a construction site before installation of utilities or landscaping. Shallow tillage will break up surface soil but can only reach the first six inches. While it would not damage utilities it could not be used around existing trees or turf due to root damage. Plug aeration is not as effective as shallow tillage but can be used in turf. And air tillage can be used around trees but not turf. Once again it is an expensive proposition to correct soil compaction if it can be corrected at all. So the best course of action is to prevent it from happening in the first place.
    Never use your landscape as a parking lot unless you have paved it first. If you find yourself walking on the same path to the boat dock, install some stepping stones. It looks much nicer than the dirt path or area that will eventually result from the constant traffic. In fact I believe Marco Island hands out code violations to property owners who park their cars on unimproved areas of their lawn and will require them to properly pave the area or park elsewhere. There is nothing attractive about dirt yards or swales. Marco Island is better than that.
  • Spring time can be very hard on our lawns and shrubs

    Spring time can be very hard on our lawns and shrubs

    Category: Environmental

    March is here. It is usually the start of our dry season but we are heading into the season in a serious drought. Spring time can be very hard on our lawns and shrubs as the temperatures will begin to rise and we will become increasingly dry. It is important to keep a close eye on your irrigation system. It is also a good time to prepare your yard for summer growth.
    The spring fertilizing is a very important one to bring your lawn, shrubs and trees from the dormancy of winter into the growing season. Lawn fertilizer will produce new green shoots to replace the brown blades caused by the cold weather. Plants and trees will really begin to recover from any winter cold damage as we enter the warmer spring months. Fertilizer will help speed this process. Gardenias, ixoras, azaleas and other acid-loving plants should get a special fertilizer containing essential elements for acid-loving plants. If you didn’t fertilize your citrus trees in January or February, before they flowered, wait until the tree has set small fruit to fertilize as nitrogen can cause the blossoms to drop and this will drastically reduce your fruit crop for next year. But be sure to give the citrus fertilizer to help the fruit grow and mature.
    This is also the time to drastically prune any plants that have become too leggy or large by thinning and heading back. Clean out any dead wood caused by wind events, winter cold or disease. Remove any crossing or interfering branches so they don’t rub each other and cause damage. Poinsettias should be trimmed back now for flowering next winter. Do not prune your gardenias yet. They flower on old growth from last summer. If you prune now you will cut off many of your flower buds due to open soon. Prune gardenias when they finish flowering in early summer.
    Insect populations will be on the rise. Aphids love all the tender new growth on shrubs and trees. Citrus are especially enticing to aphids. Spray with insecticidal soap for control or watch for lady bugs and other natural predators. They are voracious aphid feeders. Mites are very active when it is dry. Watch for dappled discoloration on the older leaves of ornamentals. Mites are too small to see on the leaves. They live on the underside of the leaves and can be seen by shaking the leaves over a piece of white paper. Watch for little specks running around and those will be mites. Treat with a miticide. Grubs will be awakening from their winter hibernation deep in the soil. They will rise to the surface to feed on lawn roots. Watch for areas on the lawn that look like water stress. If irrigation is in proper working order, check for grubs. Grab a handful of grass and pull up. If there is no resistance from roots dig in the soil beneath the spot and you’ll probably unearth a white grub. Treat with Dylox ,a granular insecticide. Grubs tend to stay deeper in the soil when it’s dry so if there haven’t been any recent rains irrigate before treatment to bring them to the surface. Apply the insecticide and water it in well to penetrate the soil where the grubs live.
    It is a good time to mulch to help retain soil moisture. March can be very windy and dry. Both conditions cause serious evaporation from our sandy soil.
    Lawns can also suffer much stress from these conditions. Be sure your irrigation system is in good working order with heads cleared and covering properly. Dry areas are more susceptible to insect and disease problems. Don’t mow your lawn every week. Let the blades grow to help shade and protect the crown from the hot sun and drying winds. Mowing adds extra stress to a lawn already stressed by drought conditions. Wait until the grass really needs to be cut before doing so and you will be rewarded with a lush, green lawn all through the dry, spring months. This will also prepare your lawn for the water restrictions that are sure to be implemented as we head into the hot, dry spring months. I will write more about how to prepare your lawn for this.
    Complete your March chores and you can relax again until the summer rains begin in June. Then your efforts will be rewarded with more healthy, lush growth than you probably will care to deal with!
    I would like to add a note about my topic on landscape lighting. Artificial light can disorient birds that may be migrating through our area at night. It can also attract unwanted insects to your house like swarms of termites or ants which tend to swarm after dark. Make note of where your outside lights shine. Are you lighting up your neighbor’s windows along with your own yard? A dark room is recommended for quality sleep which could be affected by your lights. What to do? Use yellow or orange bug light bulbs and/or turn your lights off when you go to bed. The environment will be the better for it.
  • Damage the tropical and subtropical plants

    Damage the tropical and subtropical plants

    Category: Environmental

    This weeks cold temperatures definitely got low enough to damage the tropical and subtropical plants in our landscapes.  Freezing temperatures occur annually in north and central Florida but are rare for south Florida.  Unfortunately, plants may not be the only casualties of the cold.  In the days following 30 degree temperatures you may see dead frogs on palm trees and on the ground below.  Last year when I came upon the frogs I would warm them in my palm and put them in the sun.  When I returned they were gone and hopefully alright.  The iguanas can also be killed by these cold temperatures and can be seen falling from the trees.  This will be a good natural control of this invasive exotic.  Some insects will die giving us a respite from that battle. I=m sure there were other mammals and birds that succumbed as well.
    A lot of plants will seem fine in the days immediately following the freeze but in a week or so you will be noticing a lot of yellow leaves on your hibiscus, gardenias, and other sensitive plants.  Not to worry.  They will shed these yellow leaves and new ones should bud in their place.
    Another type of winter injury is plant desiccation or drying out.  This is characterized by burning of leaf margins or tips in mild cases and totally brown leaves in severe cases.  Desiccation occurs when dry winds and solar radiation result in the loss of more water from the leaves than can be absorbed and transported by a cold or frozen root system.  This damage will be evident where plants were exposed to the wind.
    Tree canopy covers can reduce cold injury.  Plants in shaded locations can go dormant earlier in the fall and remain dormant later in the spring.  Tree canopies elevate minimum night temperatures under them by reducing radiant heat loss from the ground to the atmosphere.  Plants that thrive in light shade usually display less winter desiccation than plants in full sun and so may have fared better.
    If you have plants which received more severe damage, resist the urge to prune until new growth appears.  You may be pruning away live wood and you will also encourage new tender growth which would make the plant more susceptible to further damage should we have another freeze, which is still a very real possibility.  If the plant should fail to bud in the spring then prune back beyond the brown or discolored wood to wood that is free of injury.  The plant will bud from the live wood.
    Our warm season turf grasses like St. Augustine also suffered damage from the cold.  Grass blades will turn brown and lawns will become somewhat dormant.  It is not a good idea to mow brown, damaged grass until you begin to see growth again.  Also, remember to reduce watering to once a week or less when temperatures are in the 50’s and 60’s during the day.  Evaporation rates drop and the constant moisture creates great conditions for fungal growth on the weakened turf.  To green the grass again in the cold weather apply a light feeding of ammonium sulfate.
    Applying herbicides like Round up in the gardens or Atrizine for your lawn will not do much good in the cold as these products work by translocating throughout the weeds and cold or dying weeds are dormant and not transporting anything through their vascular systems.  Wait to treat until they recover and begin growing again.
    Your annual flowers may look wilted and discolored.  If the damage is severe you may need to cut them back and apply a fungicide and fertilizer to bring them back to life.  If the damage is minor just apply the fungicide and fertilizer and remove any rotten stems from the plants.  I do not recommend fertilizing shrubs right now because of the new growth it will encourage.
    Palm trees are also very susceptible to cold damage and may not show this damage until the new fronds (leaves) emerge six months to a year from now.  Do not prune any green fronds even if they have some damage.  The green fronds provide photosynthesis which is important to the health of the palm tree and will help in its recovery.  You may prune away the dead, brown fronds but remember they act as a shield for the heart against the next cold spell so if you can tolerate the brown fronds I would recommend leaving them in place until warmer weather.  Marco Island did not go below freezing so there is still time to apply a copper fungicide by drenching the heart with the fungicide where budding occurs.  This treatment is more helpful when applied before a freeze rather than after.  It looks like we may be in for a hard winter so this might be a good idea for your more precious palms.  Be careful not to apply copper more than a couple of times a year as it can become toxic if used too often.  The fungicide treatment will protect the damaged palm from bacteria which are always present at low levels in healthy palms.  These bacteria can attack weakened palms by killing the bud and eventually the palm.
    When warmer weather arrives the palms will begin to grow again and will often grow out of any problems caused by the cold.  If the trunk tissue was damaged, you may not be so lucky.  This will hinder the ability of the palm to transport water to the fronds.  If some or all of the fronds collapse when the first warm weather arrives in spring after a winter freeze, it may indicate trunk damage.  Unfortunately, this will result in the loss of the palm tree.
    Tropical and subtropical plants can be used in our landscapes but they must be protected or you should be prepared to replace them when necessary.  A combination of tender and hardy plants should be planted to prevent total devastation of your landscape by extremely cold weather.  Remember, a healthy, well-fed plant will not suffer as much damage during a freeze.  So be sure to follow a good fertilizer program all year to prepare your plants for winter.  Or work on bringing your soil alive again.                    
  • Looking for a bit of respite from the frozen north

    Looking for a bit of respite from the frozen north

    Category: Environmental

    It has been an unusually cold winter so far.  My sympathies go out to those who came here looking for a bit of respite from the frozen north.  Hopefully, toward the end of February, temperatures will begin to warm a little.  However, temperatures in the thirties and forties are still quite common so don’t get your hopes up too high.  The rainfall we get in February will come off the Gulf of Mexico with accompanying winds or from the north as cold fronts. 
    It is a good idea to wait until February has passed, along with the cold weather, to fertilize or heavily prune shrubs and trees.  Once again, you don’t want to encourage tender new growth which would be susceptible to damage from the cold.  An exception is citrus which should be fertilized in January or early February at the latest.  If your citrus is already blooming wait until the fruit has set to fertilize.  The nitrogen in the fertilizer can cause the blossoms to drop resulting in a reduced crop of fruit.
    Be careful of using lawn weed killers now as the grass and weeds should be growing vigorously before this is done. They both may be dormant due to cold winter temperatures.
    This is the time to save on your water bills.  The evaporation rate is very low with this frigid weather so once a week or even once every other week is all your landscape needs.  In fact, over watering can encourage disease problems as the plants stay wet for too long allowing the fungal organisms to begin multiplying and spreading.
    While mole crickets prefer bahia grass I have seen them more and more frequently in St. Augustine lawns.  Watch for small hills of sand in your lawn which look like ant hills.  These may indicate mole crickets.  The soil under your lawn may feel soft and give way with your footsteps.  This is their tunnels collapsing as you walk on them.  You may apply a mole cricket bait for control.
    Mites may become active if we have hot, dry weather.  Mite infestations appear as yellow or grey stippled patterns on leaves.  The undersides of infested leaves will have fine silk webbing across them.  Heavy infestations turn leaves totally yellow, grey or brownish and eventually they fall off.  Webbing may be spun over entire branches.
    Also watch for scale and aphids if growth activity begins on your shrubs and trees.  Aphids will appear in large numbers on the tender new stems and buds of plants.  Their feeding often causes leaves to curl and distorts plant growth.  Ants feed on the sticky honeydew excreted by the aphids.  This honeydew also serves as media for the fungus growth known as “sooty mold.”  This fungus will cover the leaves and turn them black.  Aphid populations, along with the sooty mold, can be reduced by directing a strong stream of water from a garden hose at the infested plant.  Also spraying with a mild soap solution of 1 tablespoon of dish soap per gallon of water will help.  And don’t forget the lady beetle who is a voracious aphid and mite eater.  If lady beetles are present give them a chance to control the pests before you spray strong insecticides.  Chances are they will get the problem under control.
    Two ornamental shrubs common in our Marco Island yards have edible fruit which will be ripening in February.  They are the Surinam cherry and Carissa (natal plum).  Try them!  You’ll be surprised at how tasty they are when perfectly ripe.  Both will be a deep red when they are ready to eat. 
    February will be the last slow month for yard chores.  Enjoy the rest and get ready for all the things you will need to do in March to prepare for the summer growing season.
  • Orchid – the most exotic of all flowers

    Orchid – the most exotic of all flowers

    Category: Environmental

     The orchid is said to be the most exotic of all flowers. Their fragile beauty has made them a favorite corsage flower. This plant family comes in a stunning array of shapes, sizes and colors. Orchids grow wild all over the world except in the coldest climates. Some orchids are epiphytal and will grow on trees and rocks needing no soil. The other type is terrestrial. These grow in the ground like the Lady Slipper orchids.
    Hybridizers continue to develop innumerable varieties. Many are raised in greenhouses by florists but it is also a great hobby plant. They can be grown on the lanai, sun porch or in terrariums. To grow them inside your home requires good ventilation and light, humidity (by daily spraying if necessary), proper potting material with good drainage and timely watering and feeding. This is definitely not your average corn plant or fern but home orchid growers insist it is easy and simple to grow these beauties inside or outside. Here in South Florida our climate does allow us to grow orchids in the yard as well. Many people tie them to trees and forget them until the beautiful flowers appear.
    Some amateur orchid growers enter their plants in shows. Following are some tips on how an amateur’s orchid can win the show.
    First you need to know the preferences of the orchid you are growing. The different varieties prefer potting mediums with different moisture retention properties. Potting mediums to choose from include bark, tree fern, lava rock and a blown clay product called Aliflor. I have a friend who swears the styrofoam packing peanuts are the best. These mediums can be used in clay, slotted pots or baskets lined with moss or fern. Also, different varieties have different light requirements. Some tolerate full sun while others would burn if put in the sun. Watering twice a week and fertilizing once a month is a must for most varieties. There are those that prefer only small amounts of fertilizer so know your orchids. Experiment while you learn. You will lose some orchids but will eventually get the idea.
     Some of the varieties of orchid are:
     Cattleya which is the corsage orchid. It prefers bright light and will tolerate some morning sun.
    Vanda/Ascocenda will tolerate full sun outdoors.
    Dendrobiums like bright light but not quite full sun.
    Phalaenopsis is the perfect indoor orchid as it prefers filtered light and no direct sun.
    Paphiopedilum is another excellent plant for the home preferring shady conditions.
    If your orchids are not grown under cover, protecting them from wet weather, you should have a fungicide regiment as their leaves tend to develop fungal spots. You will also have to watch for insects. There are many which will attack orchids. These include thrips, aphids, scale and mealybugs, mites and snails and slugs. It is important to follow label directions on the insecticides and fungicides so you don’t damage the plant. Most growers treat as needed when these pests appear. There are many safe, non toxic sprays you can use as well as the usual chemicals like Malathion.
    If you are a member of the local orchid society members will share their knowledge and information, such as which insects are a problem at certain times. The Naples Orchid Society usually meets every month. The trading of information with other orchid growers will help you overcome the problems you may experience as an amateur orchid grower.
    The Naples Orchid Society puts on shows and you need not be an expert or a member to enter. Although there are special trophies for members of the Naples Orchid Society. To prepare your orchids for a show you will want to stake and separate your flowers. Unless you have a cluster flower variety, you want each flower to stand alone. The background is also important to show off the flower. So even if your leaves are not perfect, their placement behind the flower is important in this category.
    This is not true however if you are entering for a cultural award. In this category they will be looking for clean leaves with no fungal spots or signs of insect damage. This is where the fungicide and insecticide regiments come in to play. Color and vigor of the plant are also important.
    Even if you don’t want to enter a Naples Orchid Society show, you can go and enjoy a lot of beautiful orchids and get an idea of which varieties you might like to try growing. Their next show is February 20, 21 & 22 at the Naples Botanical Garden where you can also enjoy the beautiful orchid garden created and maintained by the garden’s staff.
  • Fertilizer leaching and run off

    Fertilizer leaching and run off

    Category: Environmental

    I recently spoke at a City of Marco Island Waterways Committee Meeting about fertilizer leaching and run off causing algae blooms in our surrounding waterways.  I learned that there are some citizens who are raising the idea of a complete fertilizer ban on Marco Island.  This would not be a good idea since it could cause more pollution than it would stop by slowly killing the very plants that filter the pollution on our island.  The same is unfortunately true of our fertilizer ordinance as it is today written.  Both ideologies negatively affect roots.
    Ah roots!  The filters of our earth!  And an important part of healthy lawns, trees and plants.  And that brings me to the subject of soil, which is home to most roots.  Soil should be alive and it is a fact that chemical fertilizers kill the microbial activity in soil.  Do we really need chemical fertilizers for healthy lawns and plants?  Fertilizers give us a quick bang for our buck.  And homeowners and farmers have been using them for decades for growing food and to beautify our surroundings.  Often to the detriment of our environment when too much is used or run off is not controlled.  This is one of the main reasons that fertilizer is getting the bad rap it gets today.  So what is a respectable farmer or gardener to do?  Let us look into just what chemical fertilizers do to our soil and what the alternatives are.
    We should know that chemical fertilizers have a negative impact on our soil by damaging soil structure, fertility and by devastating beneficial microorganisms.  Fertilizer can change pH levels in the soil making erosion more probable.  The lack of organic matter causes poor soil structure allowing it to wash or blow away and contaminate nearby waterways and their ecosystems.
    Chemical fertilizers also disrupt the delicate balance of soil microorganisms like bacteria, fungi and other beneficial microbes.  These microorganisms are crucial in decomposing organic matter, fixing nitrogen and fighting plant diseases.  When you kill off beneficial microorganisms you reduce soil biodiversity.  Mycorrhizal fungi, which I have written about in the past, are important for plant nutrient uptake and are just one example of important biodiversity.  Altering soil’s microbial community affects the entire ecosystem.
    Soil acidification is more of a problem in regions with low pH soils.  We tend to have high pH levels due to our sandy, calcium soils.  Soil acidification reduces soil fertility as nutrients become less available to plants.  This can be a result of high pH soils.  Fertilizers containing ammonium compounds can increase aluminum toxicity harming roots and microorganisms.  And decreased microbial activity can accelerate soil degradation.
    When we replace organic amendments like compost or manure with chemical fertilizer we reduce the building of soil organic matter.  Organic matter is such an essential part of healthy soil.  It improves soil structure and water holding capacity.  It provides nutrients and energy for microorganisms which in turn supports soil biodiversity and ecosystems.  Without organic matter soil is more prone to erosion, compaction and degradation along with a general decline in soil health.  Chemical fertilizers can also increase the concentration of salts in the soil which affects the absorbing of water and nutrients.
    So how do we wrangle ourselves from the unhealthy dependency we have on chemical fertilizer?  There are sustainable practices that prioritize soil health, ecosystem services and environmental well-being.  There is also the holistic approach allowing you to slowly make the change to organic.  Integrated Nutrient Management combines organic and inorganic fertilizers tailored to your soil conditions and plant needs.  Soil tests can lead you in the right direction with this option.
    Purely organic fertilizers improve soil health and biodiversity over time.  Most homeowners want that immediate nutrient boost they get from chemical fertilizers.  It would take time (a year or so) to transition your yard to organic care and would likely mean losing that perfect lawn until your biodiversity begins to come alive again.  But it would be worth the wait since it will lead to a more healthy and resilient landscape without harmful chemicals.
    There are many non-chemical or abiotic options available.  Here are a few I found online.
    Espoma Organic – Derived from feather meal, poultry manure and sulfate of potash.
    Jonathan Green Organic – Derived from feather meal, soybean meal, blood meal, sulfate of potash and calcium carbonate.
    Fancy Chicken – Derived from 100% dried chicken manure w/calcium, magnesium, sulfer, copper, zinc, iron, molybdenum and carbon microbes.
    Down to Earth – Bio Turf – Derived from Hydrolyzed feather meal, blood meal, meat meal, bone meal and Langbeinite.
    Back to the Roots – Liquid – Derived from soy protein hydrolysate (a bio stimulant), with 1% iron for vibrant green and a mix of elements for plant, soil and microbes.  Fish solubles, sugar molasses, corn steep liquor, soy protein hydrolysate, sugar beet extract, potash and kelp.
    If you do decide to make the switch patience will be required.  You will need to forgo all chemicals as you work to bring your soil alive again.  This means no more chemical herbicides, insecticides or fungicides while you allow mother-nature to take over.  There are some non-toxic options for these but the results are not the same as their chemical cousins.  You don’t want to kill all those wonderful microorganisms you have worked so hard to bring back to life.  Trust me.  You won’t be sorry as your landscape becomes the envy of the neighborhood. 
  • Sugarcane Mosaic Virus

    Sugarcane Mosaic Virus

    Category: Environmental

    Sugarcane Mosaic Virus is an emerging problem for our St. Augustine lawns in Florida.  Viruses are some of the smallest and most simple pathogens.  You need an electron microscope to see them.  They are different from bacteria and fungi because they are not living organisms.  They need a living host to replicate.  But not all viruses cause disease.  Some can replicate within a host without causing harm to the host.  Some of our lovely variegated plants were created by introducing a virus into them.
    Pathogenic viruses do cause disease and once a plant is infected not much can be done to get rid of it.  Prevention is the best strategy which I will cover later in this article.  The sugarcane mosaic virus does cause disease.  And, unfortunately, Floratam which is the most popular cultivar of St. Augustine grass used in our area is most vulnerable to this virus.
    Sugarcane mosaic virus has been around since before 2013 but its effects were mild.  However, it is now spreading.  The virus causes mosaic disease but because it is a virus it cannot be controlled by fungicides or other pesticides.  The infection can cause severe damage to lawns and may kill the entire lawn as the grass declines.  They refer to this as lethal viral necrosis (LVN).
    The Floratam cultivar of St. Augustine is most vulnerable to progressing to LVN.  Especially here in South Florida.  The cultivars of Palmetto and CitraBlue are the most resistant to damage by the virus.  Zoysia grass is not a host, for now.  This virus also affects sugarcane (hence its name), bermudagrass, seashore paspalum, bahiagrass, and fountain grasses. 
    The most common symptom of mosaic disease is the mosaic pattern of damage on the leaf.  There will be blotchy lines of yellow and light green on otherwise green grass blades.  These streaks run along the veins.  In the fall the lawn will show LVN and begin to turn brown and completely die.  A lot of Marco Islanders came back to this unpleasant surprise as they returned for the season.  This severe dieback really show up by spring.
    Sugarcane Mosaic is mostly spread by infected lawn mowing equipment which brings clippings and sap from infected lawns to healthy, uninfected lawns.  The University of Florida recommends cleaning all clippings and sap off of all equipment, especially mowers, trimmers and shoes and then sterilize by spraying with a bleach, alcohol or quaternary ammonia solution.  While a homeowner mowing his own lawn may be able to do this with every mowing it is not a practical solution for the professional lawn care companies who mow dozens of lawns a day.
    This suggestion takes me back to our problem of the spreading of ganoderma infection of our palm trees.  The prevention solution was also to clean and disinfect chain saws and other pruning tools between jobs.  Once again it was not feasible for a landscape company to completely clean the equipment of all microscopic debris between jobs.  My suggestion was to have a “dirty” saw used only on known diseased trees keeping your other tools disease free.  While not an ideal solution I felt it was better than nothing.  So if a landscaper knows that he has a lawn infected with mosaic disease perhaps he could have another “dirty” push mower or line trimmer used exclusively on diseased areas.  This of course would mean you would have to know you have mosaic disease in the first place.
    This virus can also be spread by aphids and I would think chinch bugs along with infected sod.  It should be noted that it has not been found on any sod farms, yet.  It would be best to inspect any new sod before introducing it to your yard. 
    If you suspect you have a mosaic disease you should submit a sample of your grass for testing to UF/IFAS Plant Diagnostic Center.
    And finally as I always say a healthy lawn or plant is able to resist disease better than an unhealthy one.  So use good horticultural practices to keep your lawn healthy.
    • Mow at the proper height for your grass type. Augustine’s optimum height is 3 ½” to 4”. I still see a lot of lawns being cut too short which will weaken them and make them more susceptible to diseases like mosaic. And don’t mow your lawn when it is wet since this can help move pathogens throughout the lawn. Keep your mower blades sharp for a clean cut that will heal quickly and prevent openings for pathogens to enter the grass blade.
    • Fertilize correctly. Rates and timing are important. Refer to EDIS Publication EP221 – General Recommendations for Fertilization of Turfgrasses on Florida Soils. Some of the local fertilizer ordinances have rules that are more harmful than helpful to a healthy trufgrass so follow the scientific guidelines.
    • Irrigation – Apply ½” to ¾” per session. Our sandy soil would prefer the ¾” amount. Put out some tuna cans, run your sprinklers and measure to see how long they need to run to achieve the ¾” application. In spring, summer and fall once or twice a week is recommended. But with cooler winter weather once a week or even once every other week is enough. And water in the early morning so the leaf blades dry when the sun comes out. Never water in the late afternoon or evening as this leaves the blades wet into the night and increases the chance of disease.
    Follow the above recommendations to keep your lawn healthy because prevention is the best, and possibly the only strategy, against the Sugarcane Mosaic Virus.
  • New Year Resolutions

    New Year Resolutions

    Category: Environmental

    Thursday brings a new year and for some this means changes or “New Year Resolutions”. Following are a few resolutions you can adopt for the New Year when maintaining your yard.
    • Do – learn to identify beneficial insects so you can practice integrated pest management.
    • Do – remove rose leaves infested with black spot fungus from the rose garden to avoid spreading the disease.
    • Do – spray insecticides during the cooler times of the day, morning or evening, to avoid burning the plants.
    • Do – run your sprinkler system once in a while to be sure that coverage is correct
    • Do – keep your pruning tools sharp to avoid ragged cuts which could lead to disease.
    • Do – disinfect your pruning tools with a bleach solution after pruning diseased wood to avoid spreading the disease to healthy wood.
    • Do – install a rain sensor on your sprinkler system for automatic shut off during rains.
    • Do – plant a few perennials in your annual flower gardens for a spot of color through the hot, summer months.
    • Do – fertilize sparingly with a slow release fertilizer.
    • Do – harvest all of last years citrus crop so the tree can use its energy for the new crop.
    • Do – amend your soil when creating a flower or vegetable garden.
    • Do – scatter your fertilizer to the drip line of your trees.
    • Do – cut away any dead, diseased or interfering wood when pruning.
    • Do – use native plants whenever possible.
    • Don’t – apply more water to your entire lawn in an attempt to green up those brown spots. Adjust or repair your sprinklers for uniform coverage.
    • Don’t – fertilize flowering citrus trees. Wait for small fruit to set as nitrogen can cause flowers to drop, thus lowering your crop.
    • Don’t – operate power equipment around pedestrians, especially children. Stop until the pedestrian has passed or ask them to leave the area until the job is completed.
    • Don’t – cut your St Augustine grass shorter than 3 inches to avoid unnecessary stress, watering, etc.
    • Don’t – plant a shrub or tree with its roots wrapped in a ball. Straighten and spread the root ball to help the roots develop outwards.
    • Don’t – water your lawn more than twice a week.
    • Don’t – mow wet grass. It can be unsafe and spread disease.
    • Don’t – trim palm trees severely. If the frond is green and not interfering with anything leave it for the tree to use.
    • Don’t – put mulch against the stems and trunks of plants. The constant moisture will rot the bark eventually killing the plant.
    • Don’t – mulch citrus trees. They are susceptible to foot rot which is not curable and will kill the tree.
    • Don’t – damage the bark on your trees with a line trimmer or mower.
    • Don’t – fertilize in a ring around your trees.
    • Don’t – severely prune plants after mid October.
    • Don’t – plant a sun loving plant in the shade and vice versa
    • Don’t – cover your yard in rock.
    Happy New Year to all and best wishes for the lawns and gardens of Marco Island.  May they flourish to give Marco Island that tropical ambiance we all love so much.
  • One more day untill Christmas day

    One more day untill Christmas day

    Category: Environmental

    Oh oh! Only one more shopping day until Christmas. Here are a few suggestions for last minute gifts for the gardener on your list.
    • Canvas tool bags so your tools are right there with you.
    • Garden carts to haul your supplies or your debris.
    • Bird baths or feeders or houses.
    • Bee and butterfly houses.
    • Potting bench
    • Kneelers so your gardener doesn’t face knee replacement surgery later.
    • A whole garden set including the canvas bag, a Hori-Hori, steel everyday pruners, by-pass pruners, trowel and cultivators.
    • Ratcheting pruning loppers
    • Telescoping pole saw.
    • Telescoping fruit picker
    • Folding seat with tools
    • Folding pruning saw (one of my favorite tools)
    • Weeding hoe
    • Twelve pair of Goat skin garden gloves (one per month)
    Christmas in Florida.  The balmy weather, palm trees swaying in the gentle breezes off the Gulf of Mexico and yards with green grass and colorful flowers.
    If you grew up in the North, like I did, your visions of Christmas are filled with pine trees and snow not palm trees and sunshine.  The first few years you live here it just doesn’t feel like Christmas!  But you get used to it and the cold fronts and rainy December weather help put you in the mood for the holidays.
    Another fact to help you learn to enjoy your Christmas with palm trees is the fact that Christ was born in Bethlehem, a land with landscapes and weather much like ours here on Marco Island.  So decorate your palm trees and rejoice in the fact that this is what Christmas is supposed to look like!
    I wish all of you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
  • Landscape lighting

    Landscape lighting

    Category: Environmental

     Landscape lighting can bring the outdoors inside at night by making your yard visible from windows. Lighting also makes it easier and safer to travel through your landscape after dark. Lighted entrances, driveways and walkways express hospitality, allow identification of visitors and discourage trespassers. Also, consider lighting for specific outdoor after dark activities. Garden lighting extends the enjoyment of your landscape into the evening hours.
     Adding some colored bulbs in your landscape lights is an easy and expansive way to decorate your landscape for the holidays. But be careful of certain colors on your shrubs as it can turn them grey.
    Landscape lighting should be designed with people in mind. While it is important to illuminate areas for safety and security and to accentuate important features in your landscape, keep glaring from the light in mind. Lights should never be at eye level because the glare can reduce visibility rather than enhance it. Eye level is about five feet for standing adults and three and a half feet for sitting areas and areas accessible by wheelchair. A basic rule in landscape lighting is to use indirect lighting instead of direct “head-on” lighting. Indirect lighting is achieved when the light source is hidden from view and only the effects of the lighting are seen. Techniques in lighting include down-lighting, up-lighting, silhouette-lighting, shadow-lighting, cross-lighting and graze-lighting. Several of these techniques can be used in one design.
    Down-lighting is directed straight down onto objects to be illuminated. Down-lighting can be used close to the ground to provide indirect light to walkways and steps or can be positioned above patios or play areas to illuminate these large areas. Be sure these lights are positioned so they do not shine on a neighbor’s property.
    Up-lighting is accomplished by positioning the light below the object to be illuminated. Up-lighting is used to accentuate plants or objects. Lights positioned above eye level in trees or at ground level and pointing upward can illuminate interesting branching habits. Ground level lights for up-lighting should be obscured from direct view by the plants, the light fixture or by angling away from the direction of view.
    Silhouette and shadow-lighting are created by lighting objects from one side and are used to accentuate the form of the objects or plants you are illuminating. Silhouette-lighting is achieved by lighting the background (a fence or wall) so the dark object is viewed against an illuminated surface or by back lighting the object so that it is viewed against a dark background. Shadow-lighting creates definition and interest by using side lighting to cast a shadow of an object on a patio, fence or wall. Effects of an interesting branching habit ban be further multiplied by casting shadows in more than one direction with cross-lighting.
    Cross-lighting is lighting an object from opposite directions, either from front to back or side to side. Light fixtures for cross-lighting are usually positioned near the ground and the light intensities from the two fixtures are generally different.
    Graze-lighting is used to accentuate the textured surface of objects. Interesting exterior siding of a house can be accentuated by concealing lights in a shrub and directing the light so that it grazes the wall. Textured qualities of bark, foliage and fences can also be accentuated with graze-lighting.
    The texture, size and growth habit of plants should dictate the type of indirect lighting to accentuate interesting features. Up-lighting is best for plants that are open and cross-lighting at sharp angles is best for dense foliage. Landscape lighting should bring out the texture and shapes of objects and plants being illuminated. Light radiating from between an object and a viewer and shining directly on the object will make it appear flat and two dimensional. Indirect light reflecting off the surfaces of objects defines the fixture and shape of the object and will accentuate interesting features.
    Home improvement stores have a large selection of landscape lights along with the necessary hardware to install them. Solar lights can be easier since there is no wiring involved. If this all sounds like more than you can handle there are many electrical and landscaping companies that do landscape lighting. With your input and their knowledge you’ll soon be enjoying your landscape night and day.

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